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What holds up to welding?

Sumboodie

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I'm sure it's been asked, but I can't seem to find answers.

What's the best thing to use on a floor that will hold up to general hobby level automotive work and fabrication?

I'm likely redoing my floor this summer as it's getting rough. Was a Rutoleum expoxy I did about 10 years ago.
 
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p00p

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budgeting for continuous & planning ahead for the least expensive expensive, most durable & easily obtainable epoxy. Any residential floor will not be the same once exposed to the heat, weight, & shock.
 
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Sumboodie

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budgeting for continuous & planning ahead for the least expensive expensive, most durable & easily obtainable epoxy. Any residential floor will not be the same once exposed to the heat, weight, & shock.

Huh?
 

pepi

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Woodstock, GA
Oh I don't know let me think ..................********************????????????????


concrete?

BTW if you're asking a serious question.... should rethink the welding .


Maybe ask Siri .....?..... amazing
 

Vtor

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Left Side of the Moon
Less stuff on the concrete the better.. ie polish it. "Seal" with those densifier fillers to keep stuff from soaking in.

Sort of in the same boat, we *use* the garage, so we want flooring system that robust and not just "pretty". I dont want to cringe every time a tool is dropped or rear end falls off a jack, etc.
 

Gunfixr

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behind the house
My floor is just concrete, that I sprayed some sealer I bought from a box store on it.
It's not pretty, but it's a garage, so idgaf.
Some mig welding, some plasma cutting, some grinding, doesn't look any different yet.
 

RPH

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If it’s a working shop just get a densities and a penetrating sealer. Nothing on the surface to damage. I used ghostshield products. 4500 densifier and the 8505 sealer. No complaints and has held well in the farm shop.
 

Oregon rock crusher

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It never has been the welding that significantly damaged any concrete floors I've worked on. Torch cutting on the other hand will raise hell with the floor and pop out little divots if the slag sits for long. A piece of steel under the action is usually enough protection to prevent it. Ed.
 
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Sumboodie

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Oh I don't know let me think ..................********************????????????????


concrete?

BTW if you're asking a serious question.... should rethink the welding .


Maybe ask Siri .....?..... amazing



The floor is concrete and had epoxy put on it about 10 years ago.

Who is Siri?
 
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Sumboodie

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It never has been the welding that significantly damaged any concrete floors I've worked on. Torch cutting on the other hand will raise hell with the floor and pop out little divots if the slag sits for long. A piece of steel under the action is usually enough protection to prevent it. Ed.

Plasma cutter, torch, welding have all burned the floor.
 

nadogail

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My dear wife had a fit after she saw what happened to the epoxy floor she had put into my shop prior to my getting a stick welder.

She stays out of the shop now, and maybe I will refinish the floor someday.
 
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king nero

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Whatever, as you'll be redoing it in some time.
I got a polished concrete floor, don't really care about the welding, but I lay down some sheetmetal, plywood or anything basically when I'm torch cutting or grinding when sparks are directly aimed at the floor.

Plywood probably isn't the best choice for fire hazard reasons, but so far I've had good luck (and a fire extuinguisher readily available).
 

PoorUB

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I have epoxy on my shop floor and it needs to be recoated, but then it has been 25 years! I don't sweat it. I weld and do all sorts of sins and the floor gets beat up. I don't think you can complain about having to recoat after ten years. I really should have recoated mine years ago.
The post about Hardi backer board in not a bad idea. Buy 3-4 sheets and lay them on the floor in he work area, set them aside when you clean up.
 

ScaldedDog

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I had porcelain tile in my last shop, and it held up well. Heat from sparks (like under a chop saw), or welding and cutting slag would make the surface rough, for some reason, but not in a way you could see.

My current place has 15yo concrete and, of course, welding a cutting don't phase it. It's always dusty, though, and everything soaks in.

Mark
 
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Sumboodie

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I have epoxy on my shop floor and it needs to be recoated, but then it has been 25 years! I don't sweat it. I weld and do all sorts of sins and the floor gets beat up. I don't think you can complain about having to recoat after ten years. I really should have recoated mine years ago.
The post about Hardi backer board in not a bad idea. Buy 3-4 sheets and lay them on the floor in he work area, set them aside when you clean up.

Not complaining, just seeing if anything has come available that would be better than what I used.

I am thinking of building a cutting/welding station that would have grates and a pan to catch the slag and sparks.
May use a 55 gal drum as it's easy to move around. A bench would be handy too, but somewhat limited on space.
 

brianh

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grahamsville NY
My shop is a working shop, after I built it 11 years ago I rolled on Thomson's concrete seal to keep down the dust, worked great for that. Welding spatter damage on the bare concrete floor is non existent.
 

dcg9381

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Austin, TX
My vote is for polyurea. It's less expensive than epoxy, doesn't require as much prep and re-coating is pretty easy.

I don't know of any product that will hold up to weld burns, so I use a fiberglass welding blanket. Slag will pop right off of polyurea, but may discolor it...
 

esvee

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Portland, OR
Is Rust Bullet still around? I thought that was more 'resistant' to welding.

Seconded for Rust Bullet - they are still around (and now with way more color options than they've had in the past). That stuff is incredibly durable and has held up incredibly well to all the metal slag I've thrown at it.
 

Copymutt

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Colorado
Not worried about what it does to my concrete floor, but preference is to weld outside for fresh air.
 
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Sumboodie

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Not worried about what it does to my concrete floor, but preference is to weld outside for fresh air.

Same, but nice weather isn't always happening.

It's tough MIG welding if it's windy. Also much nicer to weld in a warm garage than outside when it's cold.
 
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