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What Interlock kit?

acer66

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Hello,

Looking to finally install an interlock kit and the Eaton which is the brand of my panel is well north over $100 while all sorts of aftermarket ones are much cheaper even from established generator manufactures.

Since it is a fairly simple device I was wondering what could go wrong and is the price difference simply to being UL etc listed?

Thank you.
 
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PopcornSutton

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I think I paid less than 50 bucks for mine. I would have to look at it for a brand, but I had to select a model that fit where the main is and which side I wanted the dedicated breaker on. I had to move some breakers around to make the space, but it wasn't a big deal.
 

dcg9381

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I got mine here: https://interlockkit.com/
They are on the more expensive side, but their kits are great and include everything from the drill bit to loctite.

IMHO, if it works, it works, dont think anyone is going to check the UL listing on the interlock at time of sale inspection.
 

Chuckster in NJ

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Here is another choice: www.geninterlock.com
I have purchased several interlocks from them and they are great to deal with.

BTW! That UL listing on a piece of metal is complete BS! I want to know how UL tested these kits and nobody can answer this question……….. A complete "money grab" by UL and they should be investigated for taking money to approve a piece of metal.
 
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reader2580

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Hopefully, the UL checks that "piece of metal" actually does what it says it does. They should be putting it in a panel and making sure it fits.

Edit: No expert on what UL actually does, but since they are testing for safety one assumes they would verify that the item won't get energized if installed properly. They likely also look at failure modes and make sure it doesn't have issues if there is a problem.
 
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PCustoms

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BTW! That UL listing on a piece of metal is complete BS! I want to know how UL tested these kits and nobody can answer this question……….. A complete "money grab" by UL and they should be investigated for taking money to approve a piece of metal.

Tell me you don't understand UL listing without telling me you don't understand UL listing....
 

wyliesdiesels

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Aug 14, 2012
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Modesto, CA
Hello,

Looking to finally install an interlock kit and the Eaton which is the brand of my panel is well north over $100 while all sorts of aftermarket ones are much cheaper even from established generator manufactures.

Since it is a fairly simple device I was wondering what could go wrong and is the price difference simply to being UL etc listed?

Thank you.
you have to use the one listed for your panel
 

wyliesdiesels

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Modesto, CA
Here is another choice: www.geninterlock.com
I have purchased several interlocks from them and they are great to deal with.

BTW! That UL listing on a piece of metal is complete BS! I want to know how UL tested these kits and nobody can answer this question……….. A complete "money grab" by UL and they should be investigated for taking money to approve a piece of metal.
you do know that UL is not the only NRTL? so why would UL be the only NRTL committing a "money grab"?
 

AA/FC

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My inspector asked about the device being listed.... He looked directly at the label on my interlock device and said everything looked great.

interlock.jpg
 
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acer66

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While checking out the geninterlock website I saw an interlock for a meter pan with a disconnect which I have and I have not thought about.

Is there a reason to choose one over the other?


Thank you.
 

dave*99

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Coastal NJ
While checking out the geninterlock website I saw an interlock for a meter pan with a disconnect which I have and I have not thought about.

Is there a reason to choose one over the other?


Thank you.
Generlink? One consideration is some utility companies allow them. Some will even install them. And some prohibit them.

Or are you referring to another product?


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acer66

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mike93lx

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Richmond, VA
While checking out the geninterlock website I saw an interlock for a meter pan with a disconnect which I have and I have not thought about.

Is there a reason to choose one over the other?


Thank you.
I'd want it conveniently located, at least. Do you just have one panel downstream of the disconnect? If yes, it won't really matter, but if there are multiple panels fed from it, you would be able to light them all up at once
 
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acer66

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I'd want it conveniently located, at least. Do you just have one panel downstream of the disconnect? If yes, it won't really matter, but if there are multiple panels fed from it, you would be able to light them all up at once
I just have two daisy chained sub panels.

A 200A sub in an unfinished basement that feeds another sub in the garage.

I am just thinking what would be the best to hook up a generator in bad weather.
 

PCustoms

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VT
I just have two daisy chained sub panels.

A 200A sub in an unfinished basement that feeds another sub in the garage.

I am just thinking what would be the best to hook up a generator in bad weather.
Technically (I think) if you put it upstream of everything the generator needs to be sized for the whole load. At least if it's a standby unit.

I'm setup like you, meter/main on an outbuilding, feed to the house sub then a sub off that for my woodshop.

My inlet is right on the main panel. In an outage, I go out, flip the interlock, wheel the generator out and plug in. As long as I'm not an idiot I can run the whole house (well, furnace, lights etc.). Microwave/AC/iron/well/tools on all at once would not work, so I don't.
 

Chuckster in NJ

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Technically (I think) if you put it upstream of everything the generator needs to be sized for the whole load. At least if it's a standby unit.

I'm setup like you, meter/main on an outbuilding, feed to the house sub then a sub off that for my woodshop.

My inlet is right on the main panel. In an outage, I go out, flip the interlock, wheel the generator out and plug in. As long as I'm not an idiot I can run the whole house (well, furnace, lights etc.). Microwave/AC/iron/well/tools on all at once would not work, so I don't.
This ^ is what I had to before I installed my whole house KOHLER five years ago and to make things easier I used reflective red tape on the breakers that had heavy “non essential loads" like my air handlers, microwave, hot tub to name a few.…….. I never had a problem using my Honda 6500 for long periods (sometimes more that 2 weeks) of outage HOWEVER during the hot/humid summer power outages I would roll out my old Honda 5000 and direct wire it into the upstairs outside condenser disconnect so I could be cool at night, basically I had two units running at the same time.
 
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acer66

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Technically (I think) if you put it upstream of everything the generator needs to be sized for the whole load. At least if it's a standby unit.

I'm setup like you, meter/main on an outbuilding, feed to the house sub then a sub off that for my woodshop.

My inlet is right on the main panel. In an outage, I go out, flip the interlock, wheel the generator out and plug in. As long as I'm not an idiot I can run the whole house (well, furnace, lights etc.). Microwave/AC/iron/well/tools on all at once would not work, so I don't.
I do not have such a big electrical load since dryer, furnace, water heater are on NC gas.

Power outages are not that common but frequently enough to think about a generator.

Right now its just me and I enjoy it when everything is down once in awhile.

But having a generator hook up is also a selling point for a lot of people around here.

Which is my main goal right now to add things that increase the home value.

Plus I enjoy doing things like this while gaining new knowledge not only by doing so but also asking questions here.


Big thanks to everyone taking the time to answer here and helping me out.

Which is the main reason why I keep coming back to GJ.
 
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