What is the correct tool? i.e. Using old screwdrivers to separate stuff.

[Mohawk Dave]

Example: I was just tearing down a Wilton C0. The jaws have the centering pin, and were rusted. So, after some PB and Brass hammer tappy tap, I ended up grabbing some tiny slotted screwdrivers from the junk drawer to drive in each side behind the jaw to separate. And you know the story, the tips break off and what not.

But all the chisels I have are too obtuse and large for stuff like this.

Do they make hardened micro-chisel things, or do I need to grind some yard sale ones?

 

[Jere]

There are impact screwdrivers (I think thats their name), or the option of heating with a propane torch. But I am pretty sure craftsman screwdrivers have a lifetime warranty and should be perfect for this sort of work. There are always those free screwdrivers that harbor freight gives away with coupon if you don't want to beat up the can drivers.

always act like the smallest lobster in the grocery store tank

 

[OccupantRJ]

I use junk screwdrivers, and also shop made steel wedges. The wedges are made by setting a horizontal bandsaw up to cut a few degrees off square, then flipping the flat stock for each cut. If air hardening tool steel was used, they could be hardened by heating good and red, then allowed to air cool. Wedges are some of the most valuable tools in a tool box for a millwright or industrial mechanic IMO. When I build stamping dies, I mill small coves into the mating parts to allow a pair of screwdrivers or wedges to enter to assist in disassembly. Sure makes life a lot easier later on.

 

[Cadillac fan]

I have seen some of those thru tang screwdrivers in really small sizes.

 

[Fretters]

You tend to find, with using thin width stuff, that it also has a tendency to dig into the metal, (another tip chalked up from experience ). Wide as possible is preferable. Weirdly enough, to say they appear so flimsy, I find good quality, wooden handled with full tang paint/paper scrapers, (or, at a push, Stanley knife blades), to be one of the best initial parting tools for getting a part started, usually followed by some form of wide wedge. Old wood plane blades make a decent wedge. Just dull the edge a gnat's first before using.

 

[BDT/NWMN]

Don't forget you said junk drawer,that may mean the drawer holds things of little value,that is until you need to use them.I just used a nondescript screwdriver to disassemble a S an S carb on a Shovelhead,pulled the screws,hit the stuck bowl with the plastic handle till it cracked open a bit,then gently pried the bowl off.No hammers were involved in this action.The right tool for the right job,there it is.

Dang, maybe the junker-clunker drawer is too lowly of a name for the place our sleeping tools rest..

Thank Heavens for Microsoft Works and a printer... that drawer is getting a new title and banner... "Tools awaiting reassignment" ...

Thanks for bringing the oversight to my attention...

When those old screwdrivers get bent, ground on and twisted to perform a new task; they go back into my main box.. Sure hate to misplace a good, useful tool.

 

[Nortonscustom]

What you need is a tile/flooring chisel. They come in different lengths and widths. They're not like your normal cold chisel, the blades are longer, thinner and wider. I have several and only use them for separating things, like stuck motors from gear boxes. Work good for taking cylinder heads off without marring the mating surfaces too.

Here's a few I found with a quick search. I'm sure HF or Sears have them too. Buy a cheap one and grind/tune it to your needs.

http://www.dascopro.com/floorelectricianwood

 

[Hemlock]

The flooring chisel looks like a good solution.

 

[Outlawmws]

Flooring chisel will work; it is a bit large. I use old beat to **** yard sale wood chisels, resharpened for this (as well as gasket scraping). Remember its a WEDGE though , not a pry bar. Once the thing is separated, if it needs more persuasion use a regular pry bar.

 

[Mohawk Dave]

MINI WEDGES....that's what is needed. I shall grind 1/8", 3/16" 1/4" etc chisels to do the job.

Need a putty knife on steroids....

 

[Mxjr12]

I have a Matco scraper that is thicker than a putty knife but not as thick as a chisel and I just tap it with a small deadblow hammer

 

[Buckgnarly]

I really like these for separating stuff.....

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools.asp?tool=&Group_ID=682512&store=snapon-store

 

[James_B]

I use small cold chisels and reshaped punches from cheap kits like this.

 

[Mohawk Dave]

You tend to find, with using thin width stuff, that it also has a tendency to dig into the metal, (another tip chalked up from experience ). Wide as possible is preferable. Weirdly enough, to say they appear so flimsy, I find good quality, wooden handled with full tang paint/paper scrapers, (or, at a push, Stanley knife blades), to be one of the best initial parting tools for getting a part started, usually followed by some form of wide wedge. Old wood plane blades make a decent wedge. Just dull the edge a gnat's first before using.

the old wood planes blades sound real good. I can grind them to have a curved business end, and then fine tune the edge and blunt it like you said.

I was separating a case on an electric motor the other day, and just barely enough room to get a putty knife in there, then trying to twist off course breaks the putty knife blade.

This one just got painted, so I wasn't going to beat on it with a brass hammer.

And Buckgnarly, those SO ones look frikin sweet!

 

[Mohawk Dave]

I use junk screwdrivers, and also shop made steel wedges. The wedges are made by setting a horizontal bandsaw up to cut a few degrees off square, then flipping the flat stock for each cut. If air hardening tool steel was used, they could be hardened by heating good and red, then allowed to air cool. Wedges are some of the most valuable tools in a tool box for a millwright or industrial mechanic IMO. When I build stamping dies, I mill small coves into the mating parts to allow a pair of screwdrivers or wedges to enter to assist in disassembly. Sure makes life a lot easier later on.

ORJ,

I think, edit: know, for now on, when I pull electric motor cases apart, I will cut/mill/grind two coves 180d apart like you said. Such a damn good idea.