What metal saw to start with?

[TTA89]

Long story shortened... I bought a Millermatic 211 Mig welder a couple years ago in anticipation of replacing the floor and some metal parts in my 67 Mustang. I then bought a snowmobile and dove headfirst into that for the past few years and didn't get the welder fired up. I'm finally almost done with the garage... electrical, heating, insulation, walls and I'm ready to fire up the welder and have some fun.

Anyway... I stopped by the steel supply yesterday and just bought some cheap remnant pieces so I can start hacking around. I plan to try a build one of the "Steveo" benches as practice for the car.

So... I have the welder, gloves, helmet, magnets, clamps and I have some steel... Now I need a saw to cut this stuff. Should I buy the Milwaukee/Swag combo or just get a chop saw? There are tons of chop and band saws on craigslist but I'm not really sure what I'm looking at.

 

[metaleltr]

If you think you are going to do semi serious fabrication I would get a carbide dry cut saw. I have a renagade- budget model from sawblade.com. I has been great, comparable to evolution.

The other option is an abrasive chop saw if you can't justify the carbide dry cut.

 

[The Cobbler]

for tube and solid, a band saw would be good. for sheet goods a plasma
you can never have enough tools!

 

[Buickspec6231]

I'd start with a 4.5" angle grinder and cut off wheels first. You are going to need the angle grinder anyway. Usually can find some pretty good deals on brand new name brand ones. I think I paid like $85 for (2) Dewalt grinders. I have one set up with a cut off wheel and the other with a grinding wheel/flap disk/wire wheel depending on my needs.

 

[OccupantRJ]

I'd start with a 4.5" angle grinder and cut off wheels first. You are going to need the angle grinder anyway. Usually can find some pretty good deals on brand new name brand ones. I think I paid like $85 for (2) Dewalt grinders. I have one set up with a cut off wheel and the other with a grinding wheel/flap disk/wire wheel depending on my needs.

This. I lived in a house for 3 years after a flood where I had no workshop except a carport. I used a thin wheel on a 4.5 angle grinder to cut metal, and ran a cord to the dryer outlet for the welder. I built a set of battery trays for a golf cart, then stripped my utility trailer to the deck and completely redid the upper structure and tail gate with those tools. Those two will get you the most done with the least.

 

[dogdog]

band saw.... it's more versatile... chop saw are faster on 90 degs cuts... but life is not always 90deg cuts... .

 

[seber]

No question you need a right angle grinder first. After that you can decide whether you want a dedicated saw or a second angle grinder.

 

[stioc]

I think it would depend on the application and eventually you'll end up with two or three different types. I have angle grinders, an abrasive chop saw, a band saw and a plasma. The one I use the most is the band saw when dealing with dimensional pieces and the one I use the most when dealing with long sheets/plates/cutting arcs etc is the plasma. Prior to the plasma I did the cutting with the angle grinders. The one I use the least is the abrasive chop saw (it's loud and makes a mess of the garage or the driveway) but that's just me.

Other options include a cold cut chop saw and a metal cutting blade for the Skil saw.

Basically you'll likely need two types; one to chop stuff and one to cut shapes or long sheets with.

 

[Zewnten]

Another vote for angle grinder and cut off wheels, actually two angle grinders so when one is hot you can switch or you can keep two different disks going without swapping. Then a portable bandsaw, deep cut version

 

[alcorelli]

Portable Milwaukee band saw on a Swag mount.
Grinder with cutoff wheel.
Grinder with flap wheel
Grinder with grinding wheel.
Milwaukee 12v mini band saw.
Plasma cutter.

The small 12v band saw sees a lot of use. The plasma is next in terms of usage.
In the beginning, it was the cutoff wheel in the grinder because that is all I had.

Will get a cold saw after I clean this place up a bit and make some room.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

 

[TTA89]

Grinders... duh. I've got these two in my cart, need to do some more reading. I already have the batteries for the Portal Cable stuff and for $50 bucks I'm willing to try it. The Metabo seems to get high praise from a lot of people...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WJOWTKE/?tag=atomicindus08-20

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FQ8OHBE/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[LXCam]

I have everything from big to small for making pieces outta whatever. And I still reach for a Milwaukee deep portaband 90% of the time. However you’ll absolutely want a angle grinder and some cut-off discs for those special moments.

 

[techieman33]

Grinders... duh. I've got these two in my cart, need to do some more reading. I already have the batteries for the Portal Cable stuff and for $50 bucks I'm willing to try it. The Metabo seems to get high praise from a lot of people...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WJOWTKE/?tag=atomicindus08-20

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FQ8OHBE/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I have the porter cable grinder. It's worth $50, but I wouldn't pay much more for it. It's pretty weak with a single stack battery, but ok for thin stock or light duty grinding or flap disc work. It's a little better with a double stack battery on it. I wouldn't recommend it as someones only grinder. But it's ok as a secondary grinder for those quick jobs away from the shop that you don't want to drag an extension cord out for.

 

[usdemt]

What is this "steveo" bench? Search and google have failed me

 

[pstemari]

For that stuff a horizontal 4x6 band saw will work fine, quietly and without excessive mess. All the usual suspects have them: Jet, Grizzly, HF, etc. I have the Jet which I got from ES&S for a bit over $200. It works great.

I did replace the blade with a Lenox Diemaster (about $30 at Amazon) but that's about it. Clamp a piece in position, turn it on, and go do something else until the saw cuts through and shuts itself off.

Carbide cold saws have very expensive blades that are easy to damage, abrasive saws are a mess, and angle grinders w cutoff wheels are something I avoid whenever possible. I've seen too many cutoff wheels shatter to trust the damn things.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[TTA89]

What is this "steveo" bench? Search and google have failed me

Start here - https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=120386&referrerid=214414

And then here - https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=126086&referrerid=214414

 

[Jazz1]

Porta band is more versatile. I opted for a bandsaw which made my chop saw obsolete. I dont miss the dust, sparks and fumes at all.

 

[NC Rick]

For that stuff a horizontal 4x6 band saw will work fine, quietly and without excessive mess. All the usual suspects have them: Jet, Grizzly, HF, etc. I have the Jet which I got from ES&S for a bit over $200. It works great.

I did replace the blade with a Lenox Diemaster (about $30 at Amazon) but that's about it. Clamp a piece in position, turn it on, and go do something else until the saw cuts through and shuts itself off.

Carbide cold saws have very expensive blades that are easy to damage, abrasive saws are a mess, and angle grinders w cutoff wheels are something I avoid whenever possible. I've seen too many cutoff wheels shatter to trust the damn things.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

^^ THIS!

the little 4x6 vertical and horizontal bandsaws are really versatile and inexpensive option. I have had one for 30 years. I also have a dedicated vertical bandsaw as well as a porta-band. The 4x6 is easy the most versatile and biggest bang for the buck. As a hack fabricator, I would pick my minimum tools to drill press, 4x6 band saw, belt sander, angle grinder and a welder of some type. A person could do a lot with those.

 

[TTA89]

I think I've decided to look into a 4x6 saw as recommended by a few of you. I have the room... Can you buy these locally? Shipping seems to be hit (pun intended) or miss on the reviews for some.

 

[TTA89]

For that stuff a horizontal 4x6 band saw will work fine, quietly and without excessive mess. All the usual suspects have them: Jet, Grizzly, HF, etc. I have the Jet which I got from ES&S for a bit over $200. It works great.

What is ES&S?

 

[seber]

.

Carbide cold saws have very expensive blades that are easy to damage, abrasive saws are a mess, and angle grinders w cutoff wheels are something I avoid whenever possible. I've seen too many cutoff wheels shatter to trust the damn things.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

One thing to be sure of. If you use an angle grinder for cutting, be sure to keep the guard on and adjusted. Also, only use high quality discs. I've never had a name brand disc fail, but those cheap Chinese ****, look out. Even so, with the guard in place and good gloves it has never been a problem.

 

[TTA89]

What do you think about the desktop band saws?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EGB72J0/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[dr_clyde]

This is highly dependent on budget. Saws are essential to metal fabrication, and the more you spend, the more saw you get.

There is a reason industry uses bandsaws. They are versatile, accurate, durable, reliable, and have a proven track record. I am partial to old DoAll saws. Kalamazoo, Wellsaw and Ellis are good home shop saws. If you have the room, nothing beats a good bandsaw.

There are many different kinds, but if I could only have one in my home shop, I'd get a Roll-in saw. That's the brand name, Roll-in saw. Dake makes one too called the Work-a-matic. They can be used in so many configurations, and do double duty as a cut-off saw and a vertical contour saw. In a pinch, you can set up jigs on the table and use them kind of like a tilt-frame saw.

Failing that, I'd get a horizontal scissor type saw from someone like Wellsaw that you can put a small table on and use vertical as well. You can get these with coolant, and are very useful.

If space is so precious you can't justify the floor space, a portaband is a useful and handy too, especially with the SWAG table. I have 2 from Milwaukee, and they see regular use. You can buy jigs and guides to get straight and square cuts.

A Femi portable cut-off saw is on my list for portable bar work. They are the ultimate tiny bandsaw.

In my shop, I have 3 saws that get regular use. I have a DoAll 16" vertical contour saw (invaluable), a DoAll C69 horizontal bandsaw handles anything over 2" , and I cut small bar and tube on a Startrite cold saw.

The cold saw is used the most, the blade is solid HSS, turns off a gearbox with 2 speed selections, flood coolant, swivel head in both directions and self centering vise. I love it, worth every penny. If it died, I would buy another one tomorrow. I use it every day. I bought it used off a machinery dealer very reasonable.

Personally, I would NEVER own one of those stupid "dry cut" pos saws. I will take an abrasive chop saw hands down over one of these things. I will never understand the fascination with them. They are loud, expensive, aren't very well made, fling hot chips everywhere, and the blades have a pretty short life. At least with an abrasive saw, the blades are inexpensive and you can cut thin metal, odd profiles or hardened shafting without roaching an expensive blade.

 

[Jazz1]

Not sure what you call my saw but it can be used horizontal or vertical, not as deep a throat as a real bandsaw but these are pretty awesome.. to the right of my snowboard

 

[Cryptic1911]

I had a swag stand and a portable band saw, and while it worked, it was a pain in the *** to try and cut long lengths. It's handy for small stuff though.

I bought a dewalt abrasive chop saw, and that went back to home depot after one cut. Screw that thing. It was really slow, loud, cut crooked, shot abrasive material everywhere, and it just felt like cheap junk

I then bought a mk morse metal devil dry cut chop saw (with toothed blade), and maaan that thing cuts so much better. it's definitely loud, but it cuts nice and smooth, its pretty fast, and it doesn't make much mess at all. Especially compared to an abrasive.. I'll never own another one of those. That said, a real "cold cut" saw would be the cats ***, but most can't ever find a reasonable deal on one, but the mk morse metal devil I got is a nicely made saw

I do have a doall metalmaster as well now, but I still prefer to cut long lengths on the mk morse. Heavy stuff would go on the doall though

If I had a large shop, I'd love to have a horizontal bandsaw. Those seem pretty versitile

 

[MJD1]

This is highly dependent on budget. Saws are essential to metal fabrication, and the more you spend, the more saw you get.

There is a reason industry uses bandsaws. They are versatile, accurate, durable, reliable, and have a proven track record. I am partial to old DoAll saws. Kalamazoo, Wellsaw and Ellis are good home shop saws. If you have the room, nothing beats a good bandsaw.

There are many different kinds, but if I could only have one in my home shop, I'd get a Roll-in saw. That's the brand name, Roll-in saw. Dake makes one too called the Work-a-matic. They can be used in so many configurations, and do double duty as a cut-off saw and a vertical contour saw. In a pinch, you can set up jigs on the table and use them kind of like a tilt-frame saw.

Failing that, I'd get a horizontal scissor type saw from someone like Wellsaw that you can put a small table on and use vertical as well. You can get these with coolant, and are very useful.

If space is so precious you can't justify the floor space, a portaband is a useful and handy too, especially with the SWAG table. I have 2 from Milwaukee, and they see regular use. You can buy jigs and guides to get straight and square cuts.

A Femi portable cut-off saw is on my list for portable bar work. They are the ultimate tiny bandsaw.

In my shop, I have 3 saws that get regular use. I have a DoAll 16" vertical contour saw (invaluable), a DoAll C69 horizontal bandsaw handles anything over 2" , and I cut small bar and tube on a Startrite cold saw.

The cold saw is used the most, the blade is solid HSS, turns off a gearbox with 2 speed selections, flood coolant, swivel head in both directions and self centering vise. I love it, worth every penny. If it died, I would buy another one tomorrow. I use it every day. I bought it used off a machinery dealer very reasonable.

Personally, I would NEVER own one of those stupid "dry cut" pos saws. I will take an abrasive chop saw hands down over one of these things. I will never understand the fascination with them. They are loud, expensive, aren't very well made, fling hot chips everywhere, and the blades have a pretty short life. At least with an abrasive saw, the blades are inexpensive and you can cut thin metal, odd profiles or hardened shafting without roaching an expensive blade.

I don't know what you based your anaylis of dry cut saws on . Loud, no louder than abrasive, blade life, maybe if cutting heavy solids. My Makita is pretty good at catching chips, certainly better than a mountain of black **** everywhere. As far as well made, evolution and DeWalt are about as flimsy as a abrasive chopsaw, Makita, jancy and Morse are much better. Not a substitute for a band saw when it comes to heavier sections but when used properly a good choice for 1/4" and lighter.

 

[dr_clyde]

I don't know what you based your anaylis of dry cut saws on . Loud, no louder than abrasive, blade life, maybe if cutting heavy solids. My Makita is pretty good at catching chips, certainly better than a mountain of black **** everywhere. As far as well made, evolution and DeWalt are about as flimsy as a abrasive chopsaw, Makita, jancy and Morse are much better. Not a substitute for a band saw when it comes to heavier sections but when used properly a good choice for 1/4" and lighter.

Ordered and used a Morse for a while at a shop I used to work at. We threw it out after the third blade got trashed by the vise not being able to tighten enough and it lifting the part out. We went back to using Hitachi abrasive saws for those jobs. Worked way better.

We cut a LOT of tubing in that shop, we had 2 REAL Bewo/Scotchman cold saws that were running quite a lot. This saw was intended as a overflow/backup.

Over the years I've used a fair amount of other brands, none of them really stood out as different. They all just seem like a flimsy saw intended to be a substitute for the real deal.

An abrasive saw will cut hardened steel like press brake dies, safely cut super thin metal like steel studs and uni-strut, and any manner of quick and dirty cutting like rebar.

Neither are precision saws so I'd rather have the cheaper, safer, easier to use and more versatile abrasive saw over a dry cut.

I'm happy you have one that works for you, but IMO, they do nothing better than other saws. A bandsaw will be way more saw long term and for less money in most cases.

I can't recommend one based on my experiences. But that's just me.

 

[The Cobbler]

What do you think about the desktop band saws?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EGB72J0/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I have a similar one. so far has done everything I've asked it to do. and very accurate out of the box. had to get custom made blades for mine, but they were reasonable on ebay for good quality blades

 

[tarbellb]

Budget?

 

[ZRX61]

Grinder with cutoff wheel.
Grinder with flap wheel
Grinder with grinding wheel.

Grinder with a wirewheel
Grinder with a 4-5in 3M Scotchbrite disc

 

[crewchief888]

I'd start with a 4.5" angle grinder and cut off wheels first. You are going to need the angle grinder anyway. Usually can find some pretty good deals on brand new name brand ones. I think I paid like $85 for (2) Dewalt grinders. I have one set up with a cut off wheel and the other with a grinding wheel/flap disk/wire wheel depending on my needs.

This. I lived in a house for 3 years after a flood where I had no workshop except a carport. I used a thin wheel on a 4.5 angle grinder to cut metal, and ran a cord to the dryer outlet for the welder. I built a set of battery trays for a golf cart, then stripped my utility trailer to the deck and completely redid the upper structure and tail gate with those tools. Those two will get you the most done with the least.

fo years i cut steel with whatever i had, circular saw with an abrasive wheel, jigsaw with a fine tooth blade, hacksaw or 4 1/2" grinder.

i have a ridgid abrasive cut off, (older model with the cast base) and HAD a plasma cutter for a short time. for me, the plasma just didnt work out for me, and sold it soon after i stopped using it.

 

[usdemt]

Start here - https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=120386&referrerid=214414

And then here - https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=126086&referrerid=214414

Steve o the member here.... now I get it. Im and idiot and thanks!

 

[Showkey]

Purchased the Swag band saw table ........have not used the abrasive chop saw since.

 

[Fix Until Broke]

Another option to consider is a recip saw (sawzall) with a metal blade. Many other uses and with a bit of practice, makes good cuts.

I've used the dry cut, carbide tooth blade saws before - they're great for some things - conduit, unistrut, etc. The larger ~8" ones will work on plate and such, but they're VERY loud and you really need full welding PPE to not get hot chips melting into your skin somewhere.

 

[TTA89]

Just to follow up... I found the local steel supply and bought some remnant stuff to play around with. I'm a total beginner who is doing this as a hobby for fun. I bought the PorterCable battery powered grinder since I already have batteries and I also bought a Metabo grinder, and a Power Cable chop saw... I of course have a sawzall as well if all else fails ha ha.

I'll start here and see what happens. I'm going to build a welding cart in the next few weeks. Wish me luck.

 

[NUTTSGT]

You have a good start on equipment, buy more as the budget allows and when the right job comes up
A portable band saw and SWAG table are on my list.

 

[Jazz1]

Purchased the Swag band saw table ........have not used the abrasive chop saw since.

I sold my chop saw as it had not been used since bandsaw arrived, but the angle grinder stays.

 

[alcorelli]

Grinder with a wirewheel
Grinder with a 4-5in 3M Scotchbrite disc

I just ordered 2 more grinders, lol.

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[AA/FC]

My vote for your first metal cutting saw would be Sawzall. It can be used for metal and wood and is probably the most versatile saw you can buy. If I could only have one power saw, it would be a Milwaukee Sawzall. (or comparable)

For metal working, my next choice would either be a Milwaukee portaband handheld band saw, or the Milwaukee 8" Metal Cutting Circular Saw. Yes, I have suggested all Milwaukee branded saws but only because that is what I own and they all work excellent. Any one of the saws I mentioned would probably be just fine in any other brand. Since you just starting out, go to Harbor Freight and buy all three of the saws I mentioned for the price of one Milwaukee and you'll be all set for several years of tinkering in your garage. Enjoy!

 

[TTA89]

I stopped at the steel supply and bought some 1.5 tube to build a cart as my first welding project. Started by unboxing all the new toys... Speed squares, magnets, a 90 degree jig, and some mig wire.

I put some wheels on the grinders and wow, the Metabo has some Powah! The Portercable will work in a pinch but not in the same class.