What metal saws are people using?

[William Payne]

I’m on the lookout for a saw whether new or old to cut metals of all kinds, solids and tubing/pipe. I’m after something that is is large capacity but doesn’t take up a huge amount of space as my shop is only 20 feet by 23 feet. Mitre with a degree wheel would be great. I’m even looking at cold saws as an option.

What is everyone out there using?

 

[The Cobbler]

I have a band saw similar to the WEN tabletop bandsaw, a 14" abrasive chop saw , various angle grinders & cut off wheels.

 

[d.mcfarland]

Another option would be a reciprocating saw and a good disc sander to perfect the angle.

 

[William Payne]

Another option would be a reciprocating saw and a good disc sander to perfect the angle.

Haha I already have those. But I want accurate cutting. I used to cut 4inch solid 316 stainless at my last job with a bandsaw and even that I thought was a bit rough of a cut.

 

[William Payne]

Worst stuff I ever tried to cut on a saw was a tool steel that is locally called Nimax. It was so hard that it actually caused the blade to cut on an angle.

 

[matt_i]

A cold saw is king of the small footprint. I tried a 10" MEP version and it was too light for what I wanted it to do and had a crappy coolant pump. Eventually got a Kalamazoo 12". They seem to be more prevalent in Europe.

These are very nice because you get an near-milled finish at the end.

But you can't use them on hard materials or you are going to completely wreck a $*** blade. Either save an old abrasive disc saw or use cutoff wheels in handheld grinders. If the blade gets dull over time, and it will, it can be sharpened pretty easily by people who sharpen woodworking stuff.

Downside is you could have 2-4 horizontal bandsaws comparatively for the price of a cold saw. At least where I live. They could be a lot more common there. Also cold saw is going to be very likely 3phase, except for that 10" micro version. There are solutions to that but also come with additional costs.

 

[zkling]

Haha I already have those. But I want accurate cutting. I used to cut 4inch solid 316 stainless at my last job with a bandsaw and even that I thought was a bit rough of a cut.

You will want a cold saw then, which ain't your average hobby shop tool.

 

[dr_clyde]

Get yourself a good cold saw. They're pretty much the bomb for up to 3" or so. If you find yourself needing capacity beyond that, a tilt-frame bandsaw is the most versatile saw available. Marvel Series 8 or the like.

I have an older Startrite cold saw, has been fantastic. 12" blade, dual miter, symmetrical adjusting vise, and full flood coolant.

If you want to buy new, I would recommend Scotchman, Doringer, or Kalamazoo.

Used, any of the above plus Super Brown, Bewo, or Dake.

Avoid Baileigh at all costs. We bought one new at a a shop I used to work at, absolute and utter garbarge. Huge waste of money. That pretty much goes for anything in their product lineup in my experience.

You will need a variety of blades. They tooth count and geometry is important to getting a smooth, vibration free cut. Plan on getting at least 6 blades, one for steel tubing, one for aluminum and plastic, and one for thick solids. Then have one more of each so you can have it at the sharpener while you still use the saw. If you find yourself running a lot of one particular variety of stock, then get a pair of blades specific to that material and shape. Like, a blade for thin stainless tubing is not going to cut 3" solid bars well.

 

[zmotorsports]

A cold saw would be great for smaller (<3" or so) and have a relatively small footprint.

I used an abrasive chop saw for decades until I bought a horizontal bandsaw about 10 years ago. I then upgraded to a Baileigh BS-210 mitering head horizontal bandsaw about 4 years ago and haven't touched my abrasive saw for nearly 7 or 8 years now. It has a more square footprint than many of the horizontal bandsaws on the market which are longer than they are wide (rectangular is footprint). The mitering head bandsaw has a much larger capacity as I can routinely cut 6" diameter round stock and anything smaller.

I also have a vertical bandsaw that I use as much if not more than my horizontal bandsaw but would be more difficult to use for longer lengths as well as tubing.

 

[iamrfixit]

Cold saws are great, they run very slowly, run a coolant and cost thousands, you want to look at a dry cut saw. They are often mistakenly called a cold saw but they're not the same thing.

I have a Milwaukee but I don't think they make it anymore, Dewalt and Ridgid make one, Evolution is another common brand.

 

[dr_clyde]

Cold saws are great, they run very slowly, run a coolant and cost thousands, you want to look at a dry cut saw. They are often mistakenly called a cold saw but they're not the same thing.

I have a Milwaukee but I don't think they make it anymore, Dewalt and Ridgid make one, Evolution is another common brand.

Why do you assume the OP doesn't want a cold saw? He mentioned them by name in the first post, and a cold saw would be a very good solution to his sawing needs.

Just because something is relatively expensive doesn't mean it's not what they want.

My used cold saw was 2k from a machinery dealer. Worth every penny. You couldn't GIVE me 10 free dry cut saws. I'd rather use an abrasive saw than a dry saw.

 

[lis2323]

For what you want to do, I agree with the others who mentioned a cold saw[emoji106]

 

[Lassen Forge]

cold saw for everything but hard metal, abrasive miter for hard stuff. You can store the miter out of site until you need it...

 

[lis2323]

Why do you assume the OP doesn't want a cold saw? He mentioned them by name in the first post, and a cold saw would be a very good solution to his sawing needs.

Just because something is relatively expensive doesn't mean it's not what they want.

My used cold saw was 2k from a machinery dealer. Worth every penny. You couldn't GIVE me 10 free dry cut saws. I'd rather use an abrasive saw than a dry saw.

Agreed. I have a Makita dry cut saw and it works well for me as a hobbyist.

However I would NEVER get rid of my 35 year old abrasive chop saw though. There are just too many times I need to make a cut in hard “unknown” metals or an odd shaped piece that is difficult to clamp securely in the saw vise.

When a good price on a used cold saw comes up locally I will most definitely grab it. I am already kicking myself for passing on one a year ago.

 

[larry_g]

I may be on the fringe here but I find that when I need a good cut like a cold saw I use a slitting saw on the HZ milling machine. I picked this mill up for a song and use it for a lot duties outside normal milling.

View media item 88948
In the above layout I replace what is now the boring head with a slitting saw on an arbor and slice away. It works for me when the power hack saw doesn't.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[William Payne]

I have 3-phase power so that’s not a problem. Currently I’m looking at semi auto bandsaws that have adjustable speeds with coolant. They are what I’m used to using but are large but if I put it on wheels I could probably get away with it.

I have seen a few power hacksaws for sale which is another option.

The cold saws with coolant have been great and the 14” blades ones capacity look great for everything except solid stock which is limited which honestly at this early of a stage in my shop is probably just me being fussy.

 

[William Payne]

After more searching the cold saw Is definitely looking like a great option.

 

[William Payne]

I think I’ll look at something like this

http://brobo.com.au/s315d-s350d-s400b/

 

[dr_clyde]

Brobo makes a good saw.

 

[William Payne]

Brobo makes a good saw.

Easier to get down here as they are made across the ditch in Australia.

 

[tarbellb]

Agreed with the cold saw footprint, not much more than 24"x24".

These mitering head bandsaws arent much bigger?

https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-7-x-8-1-4-1-HP-Swivel-Metal-Cutting-Bandsaw/G0613

 

[lis2323]

I would venture a guess that any saw option will occupy a relatively similar sized footprint.

The killer is always the length of support the user will require for the material he will commonly need to cut. Full sticks of heavier stock will require adequate in and outfeed tables or stands.

I keep one saw close to the door and add an outfeed table or roller stand as necessary. I realize this won’t work for everyone.

 

[Terry D]

I would venture a guess that any saw option will occupy a relatively similar sized footprint.

The killer is always the length of support the user will require for the material he will commonly need to cut. Full sticks of heavier stock will require adequate in and outfeed tables or stands.

I keep one saw close to the door and add an outfeed table or roller stand as necessary. I realize this won’t work for everyone.

Very nice set up. Did you make those out feed tables

 

[lis2323]

Very nice set up. Did you make those out feed tables

The roller tables themselves I found used. I only had to build the bases for them.

 

[Duker]

I will second/third the roller tables if you are going to be cutting a lot of metal. I just built my in/out feed roller tables for my miter bandsaw and I am now spoiled. I have a Milwaukee dry cut saw and it was a huge a step up from my abrasive saw but I can’t remember the last time I used it after getting this saw.




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[William Payne]

Yes I am going to setup some kind of system like that but one that can fold away when not in use.

I am wanting to get a good solid cast iron lathe and a milling machine. They aren’t necessities but I really miss having those capabilities.

 

[kapster]

I'm not a big fan of our Dake cold saw at work. Pretty limited to structural material, blades are expensive and takes alot of **** to pull through cuts. I saw a German cold saw(forget the brand) demoed at a trade show, was way smoother and quieter then out Dake. Not sure what was different, more ridgid?

A horizontal bandsaw properly setup with high quality bands can make pretty accurate cuts, good enough for most things. We purchased a swivel head Hydmech last year and that has almost obsoleted the cold saw.

The roller stands make it or break it on either, have to keep the bar square or you'll be chasing your tail on squareness.

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[William Payne]

good enough for most things.

This is where good enough is relative to the work and most things relative to the individual.

I worked in a tool and die shop for 7 years.

 

[kapster]

This is where good enough is relative to the work and most things relative to the individual.



I worked in a tool and die shop for 7 years.

I work in a machine shop right now, going on 17 years and most of it pretty freaking tight tolerance The guy that welds is the only one that really used the cold saw, we didn't feel it did good enough to replace any machining on our end. For welding, he usually cuts things a little short and clamps pieces on a fixture table. Gives wiggle room and a place for weld to penetrate.

I think a marvel saw as mentioned would be pretty useful. I've been through quite a few shops and don't often see a cold saw, always see at least one bandsaw. If you've never used one, I would suggest trying to demo one before you buy. You might love it or hate it. I know we were super excited to get it, and that went away pretty quick.

Just my experience and .02, the decision is entirely yours.

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[William Payne]

I work in a machine shop right now, going on 17 years and most of it pretty freaking tight tolerance The guy that welds is the only one that really used the cold saw, we didn't feel it did good enough to replace any machining on our end. For welding, he usually cuts things a little short and clamps pieces on a fixture table. Gives wiggle room and a place for weld to penetrate.

I think a marvel saw as mentioned would be pretty useful. I've been through quite a few shops and don't often see a cold saw, always see at least one bandsaw. If you've never used one, I would suggest trying to demo one before you buy. You might love it or hate it. I know we were super excited to get it, and that went away pretty quick.

Just my experience and .02, the decision is entirely yours.

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Your first paragraph explains exactly why I’m interested in cold saws. To compliment my Syncrowave 350lx.

I find that the better your fit up whether on a welded part or machined part, the nicer everything goes together.

 

[William Payne]

But yeah in all honestly in time I’ll probably get both.