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What paint for machinery

jagxl1

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Oct 28, 2010
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What paint do you guys use to paint your machinery,vises,anything metal in the shop?
 
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OccupantRJ

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For basic metal cabinets, tables and such, I am using Sherwin Williams industrial enamel. I either have it custom matched, or I buy something I like from Habitat for Humanity Restore outlet. It's usually about $8 a gallon there. Red can run $46 new, most colors are around $35. I have also used a grey floor and deck enamel with good success, usually around $25. For small rattle can items, I generally have migrated to using Rustoleum. It seems fairly durable. For machinery like a lathe or mill, epoxy is usually my weapon of choice.
 

camarotoolman

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Mar 12, 2011
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cocoa Fl.
I'm lucky, my county has a household recycle. I never have to pay paint, wood stain, varnish , etc! Rustolum works as good as any.
 

Falcon67

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Merkel, TX
Another option - if you can find a color you like - is Duplicolor engine enamel. I use that (Old Ford Blue) on engine blocks and heads. I just clean the metal good and don't primer. The paint holds up very well over time and abuse. Very chemical resistant. There is a light gray color since later model Fords used gray engine paint. Good for smaller stuff as you'd imagine.
 

TWX

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Phoenix
A buddy of mine swears by Plastikote for aerosol, but I **** at rattle-can painting and can't verify his results with my own experience.
 

DoyleDee

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North Texas
We use industrial enamel where I work for pumps,motors and chillers. We get paint from Sherwin Williams and sometimes from HomeDepo or Lowes.
 
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KenC

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Dec 20, 2009
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The best I've ever used is Hammerite. The silver gray looks great and is the toughest stuff ever! Also the hardest to apply without runs and dries very slowly. But once it's on and cured it is durable. I only use it on wear surfaces like bench tops or large machinery. My old Unisaw was painted with it 14 years ago and still looks great. Also did a sheet of MDF for a bench t op at the same time. Other than damage for a thinner can leak that sat for 3-4 days before I found it, it also still looks good. And, it has had a lot of use.

Bench legs, small toolboxes etc, get a tractor/equipment enamel coating, with hardener usually. If it's really small, just rattlecan same type paint, sans hardener of course.
 

bluesman2a

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Atlanta, Ga.
Bench legs, small toolboxes etc, get a tractor/equipment enamel coating, with hardener usually. If it's really small, just rattlecan same type paint, sans hardener of course.

Tractor Supply....

X3, what they said. Tractor supply carries Valspar tractor/implement paint, you can get spray cans or the stuff you'd use in an HVLP gun. I'm particularly partial to the Massey Fergeusson Grey.
 

NUTTSGT

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Another option - if you can find a color you like - is Duplicolor engine enamel. I use that (Old Ford Blue) on engine blocks and heads. I just clean the metal good and don't primer. The paint holds up very well over time and abuse. Very chemical resistant. There is a light gray color since later model Fords used gray engine paint. Good for smaller stuff as you'd imagine.

You're right Chris, I've used a few times to paint whatever and it does last quite well. :beer:
 

garboui

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Jun 30, 2011
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Southern Ontario
Another option - if you can find a color you like - is Duplicolor engine enamel. I use that (Old Ford Blue) on engine blocks and heads. I just clean the metal good and don't primer. The paint holds up very well over time and abuse. Very chemical resistant. There is a light gray color since later model Fords used gray engine paint. Good for smaller stuff as you'd imagine.

a big +1 for old school ford blue enamel! esp for brake calipers against grey tones looks great, as well on its own! cant be beat for under $10 in a rattle can at napa.
 

BWS

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Sep 3, 2006
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Mnts of Va
Have used everything from the above Ford engine enamel which does work good........to cheap auto paint,just from a getting rid of it standpoint.And Hammertone is good stuff.

Really don't like spraybombs....BUT,they DO work.Cpl things 'round here that were done with a particular colour(it matches factory and is stupid cheap from chinamart)spraybomb,because I didn't want to mess with getting custom colour mixed.Been beating on these pcs pretty good and its held up way past what I'd've bet money on.

Tractor supply paint w/hardener,Naptha reduced...sprays like a dream with cheap gravity HVLP guns.Looks good....nice and thick,ain't expensive.You could play with hardener ratios if you gave a chit,using more or less to get a little softer finish.IOWs a vise would rather be a little softer(way longer drytime).

Gotta say though....really don't mess with primers.Well at least on castings........just get them spotlessly clean and start with topcoat.The trick to cleaning is loosening grime with whatever(acetone,laquer thinner,ect)and understanding the evaporation rate of said chemical.You don't want to just "redistribute" the dirt.This is what seperates different cleaners....its the open time.Also understanding how these chemicals soften any underlying paint....don't be sanding the grime into it.The dirt has to be removed.

It really depends on how you see the overall project......is it one of three on the planet?Or....a pce of industry that was made in the millions and its mission in life is to stop a hammer's blow?

Oh yeah....cold metal=Bad...use a heat gun and get the pce nice and warm.It helps with the flow-out.You can heat paint too....just be careful and not burn the shop down.BW
 
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bad_idea

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Jun 11, 2011
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Pasquotank, NC
i bought a gallon of industrial enamel mixed to a shade of blue i like at sherwinn williams. i can't vouch for durability yet, i just painted my steel workbench and vidmar cabinets with it last night. i do love the look of it though. if it is as strong as it smells, it will last forever.
 

Will67

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Nov 17, 2006
Messages
852
Location
Hell's half acre
I would go with Glyptal paint. Yeah I know it is designed for electric motors, but if it can stay on the interior of my small block chevy for fifteen years I am sure it is up to the task of sticking to machinery.
 
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