What prep work for Paint?

[Clemson]

Hello,

I am painting a 16x16 office area of my garage. The concrete had a sealer applied 3-4 years ago. No vehicles in this area, just walking and rolling a chair/stool.

Do I just do a chemical stripper? The area is going to be a bit of a pain because I don't have anywhere to push water out. So I will have to wet vacuum everything I put down .

Is the general plan 1) Strip > Degrease > etch > clean > and then paint? Or is that overkill since I am only painting and not doing an epoxy kit?

 

[PCustoms]

Why strip?

If the floor is clean and degreased, I think you can just paint over the sealer...

 

[Clemson]

Why strip?

If the floor is clean and degreased, I think you can just paint over the sealer...

That is what I am asking. I have read it needs to be removed. But I wanted to check before going through the trouble.

 

[Ran when parked]

What does the manufacturer of the paint you're going to use recommend? Better prep usually results in a better/longer lasting paint job, but I'm not sure where overkill starts. Is there an area you can try a sample on?

 

[BillK]

Hello,

I am painting a 16x16 office area of my garage. The concrete had a sealer applied 3-4 years ago.

Do you know what type of sealer ? That will probably make a big difference as to what you have to do before painting.

 

[Clemson]

What does the manufacturer of the paint you're going to use recommend? Better prep usually results in a better/longer lasting paint job, but I'm not sure where overkill starts. Is there an area you can try a sample on?

I have not purchased anything yet. I can try a sample, but it looks like the original sealer is pretty splotchy where it has come up. Some spots look like bare concrete and others still have the shine of the sealer. I'm not sure if I can find out what it was sealed with.

I'm guessing some kind of water based sealer because it did not last long anywhere (porches, garage, driveway etc).

 

[Shiftless]

If it’s an office, may I suggest instead of a painted floor where rolling chairs etc. will mark the paint, just install some “luxury vinyl”. You can get click together planks that are easy to install.
You might spend around $700 but you’d end up with a way nicer finished product.

 

[BillK]

You might also think about just using sheet vinyl. Only problem is I think it comes in 12' widths so there would have to be a seam. Is the area walled in ?

 

[Clemson]

Yes, the room is walled in. I hate to do some kind of Vinyl just in case I change up the office setup. I know the sheet stuff is inexpensive, but the plank is not.

I have been meaning to do something for a year...I'm starting to consider epoxy. Seems like its the only thing people are consistently happy with. And doing 250sqft does not seem terrible. And it would be good practice if I decide to do the other 1,000sqft in the main area down the road.

Flooring is a pain!

 

[PCustoms]

I'd spend $100 on paint and a roller. Dump some on a clean floor, spread it around.

If it looks terrible in a year, you can re-paint or strip it and epoxy.

People overthink floors because "epoxy" and "polyaspartic" are buzzwords that are all the rage IMHO.

 

[BillK]

Yes, the room is walled in. I hate to do some kind of Vinyl just in case I change up the office setup. I know the sheet stuff is inexpensive, but the plank is not.

I have been meaning to do something for a year...I'm starting to consider epoxy. Seems like its the only thing people are consistently happy with. And doing 250sqft does not seem terrible. And it would be good practice if I decide to do the other 1,000sqft in the main area down the road.

Flooring is a pain!

You could do commercial vinyl tile too. I had that in the office and assembly room in the first building I was in and it held up great. Not all that expensive and you probably would not have to go crazy with the prep. You could probably go over the floor with a sander and get all of the loose sealer up and then glue the tile down.

 

[BigGarage]

Hello,

I am painting a 16x16 office area of my garage. The concrete had a sealer applied 3-4 years ago. No vehicles in this area, just walking and rolling a chair/stool.

Do I just do a chemical stripper? The area is going to be a bit of a pain because I don't have anywhere to push water out. So I will have to wet vacuum everything I put down .

Is the general plan 1) Strip > Degrease > etch > clean > and then paint? Or is that overkill since I am only painting and not doing an epoxy kit?

I didn't have a sealer on my floor so I can't speak to that but I did have 60+ years of oil, anti-freeze, trans fluid, spray paint and myriad other **** on the floor. I used the purple Zep degreaser on it first. Then the acid etch and then primer followed by paint. This 1st pic is the only pic I have on this computer of how bad the floor looked when I started. The other pics show how it came out.

 

[Clemson]

@BigGarage

Did the paint hold up well for you?

 

[Clemson]

I'd spend $100 on paint and a roller. Dump some on a clean floor, spread it around.

If it looks terrible in a year, you can re-paint or strip it and epoxy.

People overthink floors because "epoxy" and "polyaspartic" are buzzwords that are all the rage IMHO

You could be right. The internet is the only reason I'm down about paint. Biggest pain is just moving all of the stuff out. I'm cleaning everything out to install baseboard trim and figured what better time to address the floor.

 

[The Cobbler]

floors in general are scuffed up from being walked on, stuff dragged on etc.
A good oil base paint will probably hold up not to badly .
I've used direct to metal oil base in the volunteer warehouse a few times and it holds up decently, with lots of dragging etc, a lift truck & lots of coffee spills .
When we moved in the floor was a mess of various spills of paint and tar like substances . years ago it was an auto body shop .
nothing has peeled, it gets scuffed from our use/abuse .
We are prepared to recoat it every 2 to 3 years . paint at todays prices is <$200 .

 

[BigGarage]

@BigGarage

Did the paint hold up well for you?

Considering that I painted it in 2013 I think and I wasn't living here yet, the paint had plenty of time to cure. I'd say it has held up well. There are a few spots where I filled/patched small places in the floor that have come up but that isn't the fault of the paint. One of the biggest benefits of the paint besides it simply makes it a happier place to be in is that humidity does not come up through the floor in the summer. I'm very happy with it and I'm glad I did the work.

Dennis

 

[KYCountryboy]

Hello,

I am painting a 16x16 office area of my garage. The concrete had a sealer applied 3-4 years ago. No vehicles in this area, just walking and rolling a chair/stool.

Do I just do a chemical stripper? The area is going to be a bit of a pain because I don't have anywhere to push water out. So I will have to wet vacuum everything I put down .

Is the general plan 1) Strip > Degrease > etch > clean > and then paint? Or is that overkill since I am only painting and not doing an epoxy kit?

I do epoxy garage floors regularly as part of my business. Your best bet is to remove the sealer by mechanical grinding (diamonds) or by shot blasting. (etching is also an option) The profile you want is bare ABSORBENT concrete. The coating you apply, whether paint or epoxy needs an porous surface to obtain a good bond. A sealer still on the surface will prevent any "soaking in" and limit durability. People walk around with all kinds of dirt on their feet/shoes that scratch the floor. One of the toughest places to protect a floor is behind a counter where people stand on it all day and wear away the surface.

If you elect the chemical etching route, it is extremely important to rinse away the etching chemicals very VERY thoroughly. If you don't your coating will not bond properly.