What scan tool to bleed abs module

[Ign]

Thanks 2GR. And I've seen you say in a couple different threads the GM's are all rotted out and gone in your area.....which is just crazy to me 'cuz GMT800s are still EVERYWHERE here in CO. Same country but different worlds it seems....

 

[Ign]

At one point the Autel MaxiCheck Pro was the go-to low end scan tool for auto bleed capabilities. Sure the Foxwlell seems great for the price but I've heard many people complain that all it did was cause them a headach before they eventually returned it. In the last few years better options have hit the market. For roughly 40 bucks more you can get bidirectional control and all live data on all vehicle modules, plus FREE LIFETIME updates. The Xtool A30 Pro is really hard to beat right now.

Incidentally, these are down right now for Cyber Monday (although it was also active all day Sunday) from ~$330 to ~$260

The reviews on Xtool's other scanners are hit or miss -- exactly what you'd expect for Chinese -- so caveat emptor. I did go ahead and pull the trigger at $260 because it's not that big a gamble but I'm ready to accept that I may regret it....

 

[Xcursion88]

You're trying to purge the ABS unit itself before regular bleeding.
Our million dollar SO scanners do that but and tech 2 but a cheap one? No.

Pending how mich air is in your abs module if you don't do this step your brakes will only be so good.

 

[AA/FC]

Incidentally, these are down right now for Cyber Monday (although it was also active all day Sunday) from ~$330 to ~$260

The reviews on Xtool's other scanners are hit or miss -- exactly what you'd expect for Chinese -- so caveat emptor. I did go ahead and pull the trigger at $260 because it's not that big a gamble but I'm ready to accept that I may regret it....

Once you receive the A30 Pro and have some time to play with it, please be sure to report back here with your thoughts.

 

[Ign]

Once you receive the A30 Pro and have some time to play with it, please be sure to report back here with your thoughts.

Copy that, not sure how much I'll use it immediately. But I ordered because I don't currently have anything bidirectional so if it works the price was good for the (alleged) capability

 

[2ndGearRubber]

You're trying to purge the ABS unit itself before regular bleeding.
Our million dollar SO scanners do that but and tech 2 but a cheap one? No.

Pending how mich air is in your abs module if you don't do this step your brakes will only be so good.

FWIW all of my experiences are with drained modules, not 100% empty factory replacements.

Normally I cut all the lines off the module with dykes, pull the tube nuts, and let things drain while I cut the rest of them out.

 

[Ign]

FWIW all of my experiences are with drained modules, not 100% empty factory replacements.

Normally I cut all the lines off the module with dykes, pull the tube nuts, and let things drain while I cut the rest of them out.

Speaking of that, is it possible to get female "plugs" for line fittings to keep the mc from draining?

I know one could cobble something together but it'd be nice to just have an assortment of plugs that thread on the line nut. They wouldn't need to hold actual brake line pressure, just stop gravity flow.

 

[AA/FC]

Speaking of that, is it possible to get female "plugs" for line fittings to keep the mc from draining?

I know one could cobble something together but it'd be nice to just have an assortment of plugs that thread on the line nut. They wouldn't need to hold actual brake line pressure, just stop gravity flow.

Almost anything in the hydraulic world is sold/shipped with platic plugs or caps in all the ports to prevent dirt getting in, and residual oil getting out. A lot of guys keep these cheap plastic plugs/caps every time they get a new part and just throw them in a box for future use if needed. However, if you don't have decades of collecting plastic plugs/caps, you can buy a set here:

Amazon.com

Is this what you're looking for?

 

[Ign]

Almost anything in the hydraulic world is sold/shipped with platic plugs or caps in all the ports to prevent dirt getting in, and residual oil getting out. A lot of guys keep these cheap plastic plugs/caps every time they get a new part and just throw them in a box for future use if needed. However, if you don't have decades of collecting plastic plugs/caps, you can buy a set here:

Amazon.com

Is this what you're looking for?

I looked at the pics as best I could and watched the vid from Speedway but from what I can tell the caps are just thin plastic caps that push on?

I think that's just to prevent dirt ingress in shipping or storage but wouldn't stop (but may slow) gravity flow.

I may just be stuck yanking the lines at the mc and plugging the ports there at mc itself so it doesn't run dry, but that seems kinda dumb if not necessary for other reasons....

 

[AA/FC]

I looked at the pics as best I could and watched the vid from Speedway but from what I can tell the caps are just thin plastic caps that push on?

I think that's just to prevent dirt ingress in shipping or storage but wouldn't stop (but may slow) gravity flow.

I may just be stuck yanking the lines at the mc and plugging the ports there at mc itself so it doesn't run dry, but that seems kinda dumb if not necessary for other reasons....

No, they don't push in/on.... there are threads on the caps and plugs so they thread in/on. Yes, they are thin plastic but they're just for shipping/storage or a hydraulic part. There are not meant to hold any "pressure" but they work great against gravity. They serve their intended purpose perfectly.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

You can weld a tube nut shut. Or just flare a tube nut with a 1 inch extension of line and crush it shut. Saving the fluid in the master wont make a big deal IMO, it will still need a through bleed.

 

[Ramblin Man]

Speaking of that, is it possible to get female "plugs" for line fittings to keep the mc from draining?

I know one could cobble something together but it'd be nice to just have an assortment of plugs that thread on the line nut. They wouldn't need to hold actual brake line pressure, just stop gravity flow.

You can use a pedal depresser, and press the brake pedal down 1 to 1 1/2 inches before you break any fittings loose and you will not lose fluid from the master cylinder.

 

[Ign]

No, they don't push in/on.... there are threads on the caps and plugs so they thread in/on. Yes, they are thin plastic but they're just for shipping/storage or a hydraulic part. There are not meant to hold any "pressure" but they work great against gravity. They serve their intended purpose perfectly.

Copy thank you!

My decades of collecting hasn't netted much that threads onto a tube nut, but I hoard the mc plugs for bench bleeding along with any caps that come with steering racks, p/s pumps etc

 

[setfocus]

Yeah I don't keep most of that ****. Throw it on the ground, sweep up later. However I did use a brake bleeder cap to cap off a Volvo headlight washer pump once.

I keep all the threaded plugs for bench bleeding master cylinders, but that's about it

The only gm truck I've ever needed to do an abs bleed on are Escalades... maybe an old trail blazer once. Replaced plenty of brake lines on other gm trucks and never needed to bleed the abs.

Holding the pedal down 1/4 to half will stop from emptying the reservoir

Problem with $200 tool is those functions will likely be hit or miss depending on the vehicle.

My launch millennium pro 90 will put parking brake into service mode on a 5 year old audi but not a caddy

 

[exmaxima1]

I bought this Ancel scan tool when I needed to troubleshoot my wheels sensors (it worked great). It is supposed to be able to activate the abs modules for bleeding them. It currently costs less than $125 and has Free Returns if it doesn't work for you.

Amazon.com