What should I do here? (uneven floor)

[williamkwong]

Hi you guys. I was hoping someone can give me some advice on what to do. I bought this house a little over a year ago and am doing little things here and there to make it "mine." I finally got around to starting on my laundry room. I needed to redo this because it had old vinyl flooring and smelled back of bad ventilation.

The laundry room is an addition to the house built with the original backdoor. Anyways, I removed the vinyl and found OSB. Then I ripped out the OSB hoping to find joists...so I can easily replace the floor and install tiling. Come to find out that I have concrete under there. It looks like the old owners made a couple extra pours around the original porch step. Well, it is very rocky and uneven. This floor will make balancing my washer a nightmare.

There is no way I can afford to rip this out and pour a new slab. I started looking around for self leveling concrete toppers. I found Ardex K11 and read really good reviews. It seems like it would work for what I needed. I emailed Ardex to ask them and they suggested that I used Henry 555. I just want to make this floor even again so I can either tile it, or if it looks good enough, just have a concrete floor laundry room. I can always polish it.

I was thinking of filling the cracks with concrete caulk and using one of the above mentioned products. Just by guessing using a small level, I would say the difference in height from the highest to lowest point would be about .5-.75". The room is slightly bigger than 4x8ft.

I just want to get some opinions. You guys seems to be awesome DIYers or people in the industry.

Thank you!

 

[williamkwong]

Anybody has some input?

 

[dankicksass]

If you're going to use floor leveler, which is a good idea, you shouldn't caulk the cracks with silicone or poly. Follow the manufacturer's instructions and things will turn out well.

 

[Kingham]

We've used superflow crete by lyons MFG.. with great success. mind set for prep is the same as epoxy.. (clean and profile existing). they have a primer that goes with the system to promote better adhesion.

you actually squeegee it down and let it dry.. might have to sand some of the squeegee ridges off after it drys enough to walk on.. but that's pretty easy.

from there you can stain, epoxy or even lay tile or wood flooring ..

http://www.lyonsmanufacturing.com/products.html

 

[eddy]

It's a little difficult to tell from your pics how bad it is. If it's tile you're putting, and the issue is as you say about 1/2 to 3/4", why not just lay down the tile while using extra tile cement (notch both the floor and back of the tile), and level each tile separately. Pull a line if you need and use a level carefully. Doesn't look like a big room either.
I've tiled a cement floor with a drain in the middle and sloping surface from all 4 corners towards the middle drain. I chose 12x12 thick floor tiles. That was 3 years agoa nd it's still like new, mind you there not much traffic in there. If I had to do it all over again, I'd choose smaller tiles, maybe 6x6. Smaller tiles are easier to level when you have many bumps, the bigger the tile, the more chances you have of it running over a bump. Low points can be filled with the cement tile mortar