Ok so I converted a 13hp Honda/INgersoll rand compressor to baldor electric using help from threads in this forum. Came out great. Now I am setting up the piping system and not sure on my skills reading the tables. I have the compressor set up in my 22x 22 garage. I wanted to run about 27' of copper to help with the regulator/filter/ separator from compressor and to a reel mounted center of the ceiling. I have plenty of additional hose if more is needed out of garage. I have read prob 100 or more of these threads and wanted a seasoned pro's opinion. I'm just getting started. I wasn't sure if I needed the 3/4" pipe for that short of a run. Any help is greatly appreciated.
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What size copper pipe for my garage?
- Thread starter brown7017
- Start date
1/2" copper will comfortably flow 10HP of air over those distances. 3/4" copper will flow about 30HP of air over the same distance. 3/4" is also mechanically much stronger than 1/2".
In the end, either will likely work for you.
In the end, either will likely work for you.
gerryw
Well-known member
I ran 1/2 copper , probably 50 feet total in garage(20'x20') 15 yrs ago, works great
Campbell hausfield 7hp 60 gallon
Ran 100' 1/2" for sanborn 12hp ( i think) at my work it works great also.
Campbell hausfield 7hp 60 gallon
Ran 100' 1/2" for sanborn 12hp ( i think) at my work it works great also.
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27' is three sticks of pipe. What is the cost differential for 3/4" versus 1/2"? It can't be that much.
Also, I'd recommend type L for a little more strength and durability.
As AP said 3/4" will be stronger - 1/2" can get whippy on long runs requiring more support.
With real long runs the piping increases the storage capacity of the "tank". 27' is not going to make that much difference.
Also, I'd recommend type L for a little more strength and durability.
As AP said 3/4" will be stronger - 1/2" can get whippy on long runs requiring more support.
With real long runs the piping increases the storage capacity of the "tank". 27' is not going to make that much difference.
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Since it has not been mentioned yet, I feel compelled to mention pipe wall thickness and color code markings.
Type K - heavy walled (green)
Type L - standard wall (blue)
Type M - thin walled (red)
If it were me I would pay the extra and go Green.
Type K - heavy walled (green)
Type L - standard wall (blue)
Type M - thin walled (red)
If it were me I would pay the extra and go Green.
Tomjohn
Well-known member
Can you post the info on the motor swap . I have a ingersol T30 with a 12 HP Kohler I would like to convert to electric .
Charles (in GA)
Well-known member
http://www.copper.org/publications/pub_list/pdf/copper_tube_handbook.pdf
Page 24 & 25.
Rated internal working pressure at 100°F for annealed Type K ¾, 852 psi
Rated internal working pressure at 100°F for annealed Type L ¾, 582 psi
Rated internal working pressure at 100°F for annealed Type M ¾, 407 psi
Other than strength for mounting (less flex as discussed above) there is no logical reason to pay for the heavier walled K and M pipe.
Charles
Page 24 & 25.
Rated internal working pressure at 100°F for annealed Type K ¾, 852 psi
Rated internal working pressure at 100°F for annealed Type L ¾, 582 psi
Rated internal working pressure at 100°F for annealed Type M ¾, 407 psi
Other than strength for mounting (less flex as discussed above) there is no logical reason to pay for the heavier walled K and M pipe.
Charles
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