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What size makes sense dimensional lumber wise?

2000xpsd

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I told my architect I wanted a garage in the 30x50 range. He comes back with some drawings with 28x48 as the size. He says that works better with lumber sizes...but I don't see how. I understand the 48' since you would get the most out of a 4x8 sheet but what about the 28'? Whouldn't it make sense to just go 32' instead of 28'? The stock shouldn't change...right?
 
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Stuey

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I don't mean this in a negative way, but why don't you ask your architect?

With the 28', maybe it has to do with on-center support beam spacing? I dunno. A quick search shows that 28' x 48' is a common footprint, but 30' x 48' doesn't look unheard of.
 

theoldwizard1

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I told my architect I wanted a garage in the 30x50 range. He comes back with some drawings with 28x48 as the size. He says that works better with lumber sizes...but I don't see how. I understand the 48' since you would get the most out of a 4x8 sheet but what about the 28'? Whouldn't it make sense to just go 32' instead of 28'? The stock shouldn't change...right?
If you are using trusses, the width really does not matter. Finding dimensional lumber longer than 24' is difficult. Even 28' may be special order. Somewhere around 28-30' SPF (Spruce/Pine/Fir) is just not available and you have to go to Douglas Fir. Doug Fir is very expensive except on the West Coast.

Of course, if money is no object ...
 
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LXCam

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If you're doing shear, standing plywood on end nets you 7 pieces oorrr 28'.
 

NUTTSGT

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If you prefer to have it 32x48 instead of 28x48 just have your architect draw up your plans that way. Just be prepared for the extra cost that may be incurred for the larger trusses.
 

NUTTSGT

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If you are using trusses, the width really does not matter. Finding dimensional lumber longer than 24' is difficult. Even 28' may be special order. Somewhere around 28-30' SPF (Spruce/Pine/Fir) is just not available and you have to go to Douglas Fir. Doug Fir is very expensive except on the West Coast.

Of course, if money is no object ...

Dimensional lumber 24', 28' or 30' long ? :dunno:
 

NUTTSGT

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Do you need his stamped plans for building code purposes and inspections ? If so, you're going to need to get a hold of him.
 

941designs

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I did mine 30x50, which left a weird size between my 6x6 poles, something just a bit over 9', which screws up the ease of framing it all in later with standard sizes of plywood etc. Look up my build thread to see it if you want.

Best wishes to your endeavor.
 

Mike in Ohio

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Any build works best materialwise in multiples of 4. Plywood comes in 8' lengths. My shop was 44' , 5 eight foot sheets and a four foot piece. Take the 4' piece left over and start the next row, 1 four foot piece and 5 eight foot pieces. See no waste.

32 by 48 will work better materialwise than 30 by 50.
 
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2000xpsd

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32 by 48 will work better materialwise than 30 by 50.

That's what I figured, I'm going 32'

If you are using trusses, the width really does not matter. Finding dimensional lumber longer than 24' is difficult. Even 28' may be special order. Somewhere around 28-30' SPF (Spruce/Pine/Fir) is just not available and you have to go to Douglas Fir. Doug Fir is very expensive except on the West Coast.

Of course, if money is no object ...

Originally I was going with 24' ceiling joist and kicking them up the roof rafters to give me my 13' ceiling height. With a 10 pitch 24's worked out ok, but now I decided to only do half the garage with 13' ceiling and the other half just lay the joist on top of the walls. I'll have to trusses which is ok, 24s are expensive like you said plus I don't really like framing with them

Do you need his stamped plans for building code purposes and inspections ? If so, you're going to need to get a hold of him.

Yes and no, at first building insp wanted stamps but then changed his mind. I already had the arc working on something else so I told him to sketch the garage real fast.
 

JC23

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Any build works best materialwise in multiples of 4. Plywood comes in 8' lengths. My shop was 44' , 5 eight foot sheets and a four foot piece. Take the 4' piece left over and start the next row, 1 four foot piece and 5 eight foot pieces. See no waste.

32 by 48 will work better materialwise than 30 by 50.

I wuz gonna say four foot increments but Mike beat me to it.
 

TCAS

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The reason for the 4 foot increments is that it maximizes material usage thus cutting down on waste which equates to $$$.
 
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J Persons

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I did mine at 32X48 for maximum use of material, but I did screw up by specifying 12' walls. I didn't realize that they would have to cut the studs to allow for the top and bottom plate thickness. I should have told the builder 12'4" for the walls.
 

chadman

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As others have said, four foot increments works best. I went 32x48 for just that reason. I never understood the popularity of the 30' foot trusses.
 

NUTTSGT

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Yes and no, at first building insp wanted stamps but then changed his mind. I already had the arc working on something else so I told him to sketch the garage real fast.

You could try to make a plan for him to follow. A few guys here have done quite well with Google Sketch-up.

I believe this is it.

http://www.sketchup.com/

BTW, a 32x48 like you want will yield a slightly larger footprint than 30x50.
 

sberry

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wider is better, your guy may think reducing this by 2 ft on an already too small building wouldnt be much but it is. Go 36 wide and it doesn't add to sq ft cost for trusses. In fact smaller trusses are more expensive.
 

rancherbill

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The long Dimension for your garage doesn't matter. It is better on a four foot multiple but odd dimension are not a big cost increase.

The SPAN dimension matter. on say a 26' truss it is all 2x4 lumber. on a 30' truss the top chord is 2x6 and there is a lot more webbing. Truss pricing is not linear as trusses get bigger, it is logarithmic. Labor cost go up the bigger the truss is. Roofing material and labor also goes up.
 

Spudland_Dave

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I built a 30x50...What do I think about all the "needs to be 4' increments or you'll have waste..http://www.igrandtheftauto.com/forums/style_emoticons/default/********.gifAll the scrap from my garage build could fit into 2 - 30 gallon garbage cans.

Length...so I went 50'...that meant 6 sheets long, plus a 2' piece...guess what I needed on the 2nd row up? you guessed it, another 2' piece... (exactly half a sheet) because I went 10', I then needed a 2'x2' piece on the last strip...cut from the piece from the other side.

Width would be more expensive for the reasons given...truss costs. I had 32' long trusses (1' overhang each side) and they were VERY Reasonably priced. If I needed more space it would have been cheaper to go longer then wider.

only thing I'd say is use even numbers...
 

theoldwizard1

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I bought 24 32' 10 pitch room in attic trusses last October and they were just under 5k so about $200 a piece.

That seems pretty reasonable.

Set on 14" centers ?

What was the crane charge for setting them, or was in baked into the total cost ?
 
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