What size miter saw for 5 inch baseboard (cut upright)?

[dclark2171]

My Ryobi 7 inch is too small. Will a 10 inch sliding Miter saw do this? I'm not looking to use a miter box...too much work for my project. A 12 inch seems quite big and bulky. This new saw will replace my old Ryobi. Suggestions?

 

[crewchief888]

I have a kobalt 10” sling compound
It’s done everything I’ve needed

 

[Kscardsfan]

10" should do it comfortably.

 

[e015475]

In an uncharacteristic move for a cheap guy, I bought a DeWalt 780 when I replaced all my baseboards a couple years ago. A 'cry once' scenario and I never looked back. I'm in the middle of another baseboard replacement and a good miter saw is a joy to use. It will cut up to 6.75" with the baseboard stock standing up against the fence and up to about 15" with the stock flat and using the bevel. The only downside with it is it is a PITA to store.

 

[RTM]

Let's see, half of 10" is 5", minus the arbor nut diameter gives 4 and change inches. I see a fail for a 10" saw, but I could be mistaken.

I guess if your baseboard is thin enough, should be ok, now that I think harder. Still no coffee, so a bit of a handicap right now

I'm seeing 4-1/4 to 4-1/2" depending on brand

Miter Saw, Single Bevel, Compound, 10-In., 15-Amp

Powered by a 15 amp motor that delivers 5,000 RPM for extended power and durability. It features a stainless-steel miter detent plate and turn knob lock that provide repeatable accuracy and durability with easy adjustments. Tall sliding fences support 4-1/2 in. Of crown molding vertically...

www.dewalt.com

 

[CoogarXR]

I kinda doubt my 10" Delta could do it.

 

[readhead]

Why does it have to stand up?

 

[Sal Bandini]

Why does it have to stand up?

Outside and inside corners are never square or plumb. Cutting angles other than 45 degrees and offsetting the cut top to bottom to close the gap is next to impossible using the bevel rather than the miter function.

 

[micromind]

12" would be the minimum.

As noted above, the depth of cut would be half the blade diameter minus half the nut or bearing diameter.

 

[dclark2171]

Hmmm. Is there such thing as a light & Compact 12 inch? I plan on buying a "wheeled" miter stand that fold up

 

[signcrafter]

Let's see, half of 10" is 5", minus the arbor nut diameter gives 4 and change inches. I see a fail for a 10" saw, but I could be mistaken.

I guess if your baseboard is thin enough, should be ok, now that I think harder. Still no coffee, so a bit of a handicap right now

I'm seeing 4-1/4 to 4-1/2" depending on brand

Miter Saw, Single Bevel, Compound, 10-In., 15-Amp

Powered by a 15 amp motor that delivers 5,000 RPM for extended power and durability. It features a stainless-steel miter detent plate and turn knob lock that provide repeatable accuracy and durability with easy adjustments. Tall sliding fences support 4-1/2 in. Of crown molding vertically...

www.dewalt.com

12" would be the minimum.

As noted above, the depth of cut would be half the blade diameter minus half the nut or bearing diameter.

This isn't true with miter saws, or at least mine. The arbor isn't lined up with the fence and mine has more room behind the arbor and will cut 6 1/2" trim standing up with a 12" blade.

 

[readhead]

Sal, I spent a lot of time as a finish carpenter and I haven’t seen a miter saw that only bevels to 45* in years.

 

[jar944]

Not much difference weight and size wise between a 10" and 12" saw, at least not enough to not just go with a 12" saw.

Outside and inside corners are never square or plumb. Cutting angles other than 45 degrees and offsetting the cut top to bottom to close the gap is next to impossible using the bevel rather than the miter function.

Certainly possible and required for 7"+ moulding

 

[RTM]

isn't true with miter saws, or at least mine. The arbor isn't lined up with the fence and mine has more room behind the arbor and will cut 6 1/2" trim standing up with a 12" blade

Yup, thanks for clarifying the ability. I was thinking cutting wider material, but clarity arrived shortly after hitting post .

 

[Beerhippie]

Learn to cope and you can cut it lying down.

 

[signcrafter]

Learn to cope and you can cut it lying down.

You coping your outside corners also? Much easier and faster to cut standing up.

 

[Beerhippie]

You coping your outside corners also? Much easier and faster to cut standing up.

But I'm lazy--I prefer top work lying down!

Never did figure out how to cope outside corners. Got me there.

 

[Sal Bandini]

Sal, I spent a lot of time as a finish carpenter and I haven’t seen a miter saw that only bevels to 45* in years.

I never said 45 only. I said corners are not square so if you get an outside corner so out of square and plumb you have to split the difference and then also shim one end on the saw to close either the heel or toe of the baseboard. That's not easy to do using the bevel function.

Some of the corners in my basement were that bad.

Unless you are painting and don't mind using lots of caulk.

 

[Firebrick43]

Let's see, half of 10" is 5", minus the arbor nut diameter gives 4 and change inches. I see a fail for a 10" saw, but I could be mistaken.

I guess if your baseboard is thin enough, should be ok, now that I think harder. Still no coffee, so a bit of a handicap right now

I'm seeing 4-1/4 to 4-1/2" depending on brand

Miter Saw, Single Bevel, Compound, 10-In., 15-Amp

Powered by a 15 amp motor that delivers 5,000 RPM for extended power and durability. It features a stainless-steel miter detent plate and turn knob lock that provide repeatable accuracy and durability with easy adjustments. Tall sliding fences support 4-1/2 in. Of crown molding vertically...

www.dewalt.com

4 out 3 people struggle with basic math

 

[Firebrick43]

This isn't true with miter saws, or at least mine. The arbor isn't lined up with the fence and mine has more room behind the arbor and will cut 6 1/2" trim standing up with a 12" blade.

You don’t have the blade fully down in that picture to cut all the way thru

I cut a scrap of 1/4” to 5” tall to demonstrate on my 10” glide.

A 90 deg cut works barely with a piece this thin. But if was 3/4” thick it would hit and kick out the bottom.



A left 45 does not work at all, actually all left cuts will hit the belt guard before cutting completely thru on a 5” tall piece.

 

[signcrafter]

You don’t have the blade fully down in that picture to cut all the way thru

I cut a scrap of 1/4” to 5” tall to demonstrate on my 10” glide.

A 90 deg cut works barely with a piece this thin. But if was 3/4” thick it would hit and kick out the bottom.



A left 45 does not work at all, actually all left cuts will hit the belt guard before cutting completely thru on a 5” tall piece.

Correct the blade needs pushed down another quarter inch. Here is a piece of 3/4" thick 6 1/2" tall with blade pushed all the way down. But you are correct about cutting 45 in the one direction.

 

[MushCreek]

With a good stand, a 12" saw is manageable. I have a Ridgid 12" slider which weighs 63 lbs., but on their stand it's easy to set up and move around. I've timed it; I can set it up in 30 seconds or less. The stand I have has 12" wheels, which is nice on a rough job site.

 

[dclark2171]

Sounds like 12 inches is the way to go

 

[dclark2171]

I think I will go with a non sliding version. I only do trim and baseboards with a miter. I have access to a table saw if I need something wide. I'm eying the Dewalt, however, the Metabl HPT is on sale at lowe's and Menards.

 

[WWheeler]

Hmmm. Is there such thing as a light & Compact 12 inch? I plan on buying a "wheeled" miter stand that fold up

I just keep my Dewalt DWS779 mounted on a Ridgid AC9946 folding miter saw stand when I fold it down and put it up. Even sliding it in the back of the truck out to a jobsite. I rarely remove the saw from the stand except when I switch it out for my Evolution R255SMS-DB - 10" dual bevel sliding miter that I mounted on the same Ridgid rails just for when I'm cutting metal and I don't like to do much of that in my garage if I can help it to keep down the metal shavings getting everywhere. Sawdust is one thing my shop's pretty setup to deal with, but not metal.

The Dewalt is the best miter I've had at being able to keep it's setup after moving it around a bunch, but still do need to do a quick setup and verify after folding the stand out that everything is still spot on. I use a mini machinist square and digital angle finder. Takes a couple minutes and usually I don't need to adjust much if anything. I had a 12" Ridgid Slider that wouldn't like to hold it's setup throughout a single job without constantly checking/adjusting, much less taking it across town. It was frustrating AF to find just locking it in at 90 wasn't a true 90 anymore when it just was 4-5 cuts ago.

 

[tarbellb]

My money...

Metabo hpt rail forward 12" slider (small footprint)
and
Ridgid HMU rolling base (effective and cheap)

 

[e015475]

I'm setting about 300' of baseboard now.

On a side note, if you've not tried thickened CA glue and an accelerator to glue your ourside mitered corners prior to nailing it off, it is a game-changer. Works really well on splicing base together on runs longer than 16' too - can't really even see the joint.

 

[dclark2171]

I have narrowed it down to the Bosch or the Metabo HPT sliding miter saw. I am getting more into wood projects as I get closer to retirement. For an extra $300, the Bosch seems to be an overall better saw and one that could be my forever saw. No shadow light, however, I can add that later if I really need it. The laser on my cheap Ryobi is useless. I just line the blade up with my mark without the laser.

 

[dclark2171]

I purchased the Bosch and I am really happy with it. An experienced contractor I know uses both Bosch and Dewalt miter saws and told me pick what ever feels best. He pointed out that Dewalt and Bosch are super easy to find oem parts on Amazon. He told me to buy a nicer blade and I'll be set.

I played around with both the Bosch and Metabo and something "feels right" about the Bosch. After I calibrate and use it, I'll come back to share my thoughts.

 

[Firebrick43]

I have narrowed it down to the Bosch or the Metabo HPT sliding miter saw. I am getting more into wood projects as I get closer to retirement. For an extra $300, the Bosch seems to be an overall better saw and one that could be my forever saw. No shadow light, however, I can add that later if I really need it. The laser on my cheap Ryobi is useless. I just line the blade up with my mark without the laser.

I love my glide as it solid and more importantly sets up against the wall because of the different slider design.

Its one MAJOR flaw for doing trim work, its so heavy that it absolutely ***** to move.

 

[MushCreek]

Parts are an issue to consider. On my Ridgid, about 5 years after I bought it I had a board explode and take out the plastic kerf insert for the table. NLA. I made a new one out of polycarbonate. Seems like on a $600 saw, parts should be available for more than 5 years.

 

[tak1313]

My money...

Metabo hpt rail forward 12" slider (small footprint)
and
Ridgid HMU rolling base (effective and cheap)

The Metabo looks interesting, but I can't seem to find the spec on what it can do as far as standing baseboard capacity. I found cut capacities for like 4 1/8 x 12 or something like that, but standing baseboard is a little different because it's usually more since you're just cutting with the rear portion of the blade without worrying about the spindle.

 

[dclark2171]

Parts are an issue to consider. On my Ridgid, about 5 years after I bought it I had a board explode and take out the plastic kerf insert for the table. NLA. I made a new one out of polycarbonate. Seems like on a $600 saw, parts should be available for more than 5 years.

i know it's differnt times now, however one of the main reasons my Dad purchased Sears branded power tools, sump pumps, mowers, and appliances is because of parts availability. Dad used his Craftsman 1965 riding mower well into the 1990's and basically replaced every part on it at one time or another.