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What size should I build?

alexmaclean

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Apr 12, 2014
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My wife and I just bought a home that has plenty of land but only a 1 car garage.

I would like to start doing mechanic work from home and slowly wean off my full time job as such. I don't plan to retire for 10 years but it will be nice if I could be ready for it. Zoning allows for this.


My thinking is that I's like to be able to comfortably fit 3 cars width wise with just enough space to reasonably work around them front and rear. I also think I need 14 foot ceilings at least in the center. I am thinking I can get away with 40x30 but I'm not really sure. I need to be able to install my 12000 rated rotary lift from storage, hence the high roof.

Does anyone here do similar work, and if so what size did you go with?
 
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matt_i

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Obviously on one hand you want to keep investment low. But at the same time you don't want to short change yourself.

Having built a 25x40 I would think its way too small. I have to think that toolboxes, parts, any stationary equipment (presses, torches, parts washers, fluid disposal storage, AC charge, coolant recover, etc, ???) a computer desk, would eat into that extra space.

Also I have not been to any kind of auto repair shop without a parking lot at least 2x as big as the main building.
 

stm317

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My builder much preferred using wall dimensions divisible by 8. Since most building materials come in 8 ft lengths there would be less waste and less labor/time putting it up. That means it makes financial sense for the customer too. For similar reasons, it might make sense to drop the ceiling to 12ft if you can still fit your lift. You could finish it with 4x8 sheets of whatever material you wanted, stacked 3 high and have very little waste. It would also mean less to finish, insulate, heat/cool, etc.

32x48 gives me plenty of depth with enough room to park and work on 3 cars plus a workshop space to the side. I'm not a pro, this is just for personal stuff but I think it will work well for me.
 
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850xpeps

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I vote for 35x50 avg vehicle being 20' long gives you room in front for parts and tools and what have you. Put in 10x8 at least doors. Space them with maybe 5' in between.
 

Bill Bowman

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It's not what size "should" you build, but what's tha largest size that you "can" build. I would be inclined to find out the limits, and then build as large as you can afford.

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk
 

larry_g

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I would like to start doing mechanic work from home and slowly wean off my full time job as such. I don't plan to retire for 10 years but it will be nice if I could be ready for it. Zoning allows for this.

Just EXACTLY what do you mean by mechanic work? Light mechanic work, brakes, radiators, tuneups etc. that are in and out in one day. I think you can do in a 12x30' bay. If you are doing restoration, fabrication, motor and trans removal then 12x30 is going to be tight. Office space, storage, bathroom, customer space all also consume space. When I was building a street rod a 30x36 became a one vehicle shop. Are you a hoarder/collector? Or are one to minimize all 'stuff' in the place?

Do you plan this to be strictly for commercial work or will it also have to store the boat/lawnmower/off season recreational stuff? Does the wife have any plans on some of this building? Be honest with yourself and how you live your lifestyle. My building below is 36x48 and a lot of the time I'm lucky to get one rig into it to work on. Honestly I still work on stuff in the driveway sometimes.

lg
no neat sig line
 
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Diesel Dan

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I vote for 35x50 avg vehicle being 20' long gives you room in front for parts and tools and what have you. Put in 10x8 at least doors. Space them with maybe 5' in between.

Agreed, I had a 40x30x14 with 2 bays a lift and a work area.
30' is a little shallow for CC/LB trucks and 40' wide doesn't leave much extra room. The two doors on the 40' side were 11' wide starting 3' off the corner and 3' separating them.
 

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850xpeps

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That's probably the size I will build. My only concern is going to be cost to keep it warm because I like to be comfortable in my shop as it will be my gettaway.

That's the main thing that will limit how big I will go as it gets to -30 or colder here for 4 months
 

Diesel Dan

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Mine wasn't too bad to keep warm, it was in NE Ohio and not anywhere near as cold as NW Wisconsin was. The big doors were a R12ish, R19 PEBS blanket in the walls and 16" of fiberglass in the attic. No slab insulation.

Looking back I had heard about insulating 4' around the perimeter of the slab to keep the frost out. The center of the slab is not insulated and allows the soil to keep the slab warm. If you're not going to heat the slab I think this route may work, temp readings showed the center of mine was quite a bit warmer the the outer edge during the winter.
 

TractorJeff

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Elkhorn, WI
What the fellow says about zoning then what can you afford. I wanted to go 14 feet on the walls and the zoning said No! You can only go so tall at that footprint. That's why you need to start with zoning. As far as work space, the neighbor ran a little garage out of his 30 by 50 for a year. By the time the office and bathroom went in there was a big chunk of floor gone. Then tools and tire machine, air compressor, it really ate space.
Think hard as to what you want to do!
 

Cyberbear

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From past experience I agree that building as large as you can presently afford is always best, it will cost more in the future if you wish to ever expand operations, or hire some help to handle the eventual work load. Be aware that building codes can change and "grand fathering" in your present building sq/ft requirements now will avoid problems later. Even if the extra space is only a shell, it's better to have it now rather than adding later and fighting with the building dept. Good luck on your build project!
 

ssdave

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I went 36 x 32 for my garage portion. 32 is deep enough to have benches and/or boxes in front, and 36 wide is enough for 3 bays. I used scissor trusses and 10' walls over a foundation wall, and have enough height in the center bay for a lift.

Despite the general mindset on GJ that you can't get big enough, I'd not build bigger than you need for your work planned. You're doing this as a money making project, so don't invest money you don't have to that won't give you a return. It really won't return anything when you sell, either. And, as you note, it will cost more to heat. And more in taxes, and more to build. If you need junk storage later to free up space in the shop, put in a lower ceiling, small footprint storage shed adjacent to the garage. Only put in high quality, heated space that you can use.
 

ard

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I created a 40 ft wide, 26 ft long 'extension' of the roof off the back of my barn. Rascally supported by four 5x5 steel posts.

Creates a covered area for staging, couple of horse wash racks, etc.

I just mention it so you might consider other types of space- not just enclosed and conditioned
 
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Diesel Dan

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If budget is an issue go for height first.
Shorter storage additions are cheaper if need be.

For my first barn the budget would allow for a (A)30x40x12 or a (B)32x48x10.
Went with B since everything we had would fit in a 9' door. Then came the backhoe with a cab, no fit, class A motorhome etc.
Next barn remodel was limited to 11.5' due to existing building, next barn was 14' with 12' doors.
Worked great, backhoe fit, truck camper fit, sons 5th wheel would not.
Soooo, current shop has 17.5' ceiling with one 14' door.

As was stated about heating cost, build the tallest best insulated working area possible.
Then build some cold storage around it. No need to heat everything, JMO.
 

Jazz1

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Thunder Bay On.
That's probably the size I will build. My only concern is going to be cost to keep it warm because I like to be comfortable in my shop as it will be my gettaway.

That's the main thing that will limit how big I will go as it gets to -30 or colder here for 4 months

-30 for 4 months...just curious, what do penguins drive?:bounce:
 

Matt Matt

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Ontario
It's not what size "should" you build, but what's tha largest size that you "can" build. I would be inclined to find out the limits, and then build as large as you can afford.

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk
I agree.

First check with your town's/city's Bylaw building department, and find out what's the biggest you can build, zoning, and if there is hight restrictions, as per your property.

I know with my wife, I can do first and ask for forgiveness later. But this does not apply usually with the city Bylaw officer.
 

frank001

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Mar 1, 2015
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665
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Southern California
My wife and I just bought a home that has plenty of land but only a 1 car garage.

I would like to start doing mechanic work from home and slowly wean off my full time job as such. I don't plan to retire for 10 years but it will be nice if I could be ready for it. Zoning allows for this.


My thinking is that I's like to be able to comfortably fit 3 cars width wise with just enough space to reasonably work around them front and rear. I also think I need 14 foot ceilings at least in the center. I am thinking I can get away with 40x30 but I'm not really sure. I need to be able to install my 12000 rated rotary lift from storage, hence the high roof.

Does anyone here do similar work, and if so what size did you go with?

I put in a 24 x 40 and 12 foot walls with three 10 x 10 foot doors. Plenty of room to move around even with three cars parked inside.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=284998&highlight=frank001
 

dw1

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Jan 26, 2015
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Ky
build as big as you can afford, not too many people complain about their shops being too big.
Or figure out how big you need and double it.

I built a 30x50x12 and at the time I built it, I couldn't go any bigger than the old farm house that was on the property (1700 sq ft) I have since tore the old farm house down, sometimes I wish the barn was bigger, I could use more room, but then again, I know I would fill it up with mostly things that I probably don't need!! Good Luck.
 

zmotorsports

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Oct 20, 2009
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Northern Utah
Like others have stated, check the CC&R's first and find out exactly what the criteria is for detached garages as some cities will have it very defined and other times you have to go to the county.

Secondly, make certain you can open a business doing this as you don't want to piss off neighbors and/or the city if you can't get a business license.

Next be realistic on size and not forget to plan on toolboxes, equipment, etc. when planning on size. I ran my automotive/motorcycle/fabrication/race business out of my 34'x34' shop with 14' ceilings for exactly 20 years before closing my business in December to move. It started out where I could have two vehicles easily in the shop and still a quad or motorcycle or two. By the time I added more equipment and tools at the end of that 20-year span I could barely fit one vehicle in the shop on the lift and maybe a couple of motorcycles. If I had one vehicle in and needed to wait on parts I have to either push it outside or work on it outside at the shop door as I had to go outside to change my mind.

My new shop is 50x60x16 with the workshop section being 40' wide by 50' deep so I can have two vehicles end to end in one bay and another vehicle in the next bay and still have a 20'x25' area for all of my machining and fabrication equipment. I still have worries that I will outgrow it evenutally and I no longer have my business license nor work on that many vehicles for other people. This was hands down the largest the city and county would let me construct on 3/4 of an acre lot so it will have to do but I would suggest going as big as you think you may need and then add at least another 50% or more.

Mike
 

crewchief888

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Dec 3, 2009
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13,741
Location
NW indiana
i work out of my 19x22 garage at the house.

at one time i split rent with a cuple friends on a commercial building.
the area we had was approx 30Dx40w with 2 12ft overhead doors.

had more than enough room to work on 2 vehicles, and the 3rd "bay" was for storage. we eventually closed up shop, and my vehicle and tools made their way back to my garage.

my hope was to be able to build a similar sized garage at my house right behind where my existing garage is at now, then demo the old garage and i'd have a 20x20 concrete pad in front of the new garage...

unfortunately i dont ever see it happening :dunno:



:beer:
 

RGKSR

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Aug 31, 2011
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47
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Bucks County, Pa
I just added a '32x'48 addition to my existing '44x'31 garage. It was as large as my budget would allow. That gives me 2900sg ft. I have 6 garage doors and one man door. I would have gone bigger if the budget would have allowed.

Both have 12' walls and are spray foamed for insulation.

Remember, you will fill whatever space you have.
 

bcoke

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Mar 8, 2013
Messages
341
Location
Pawlet Vermont
Yes as large as you can afford......you may think like a monitor barn say 50x36 with the tall section 30x36 and you could have 2 lifts and a large storage area above......I will try to attach a photo of my monitor garage 36x40 with a 20x36 "attic" that has 6 foot walls and a 9 foot ridge great for train room,mancave,storage ,grandkids playroom etc.The center section downstairs has 12+ ceiling.......remember you can frame the outer walls for future expansion [put in headers] my "wings" are 10x36 and I feel I should have gone bigger.......also I put in radiant floor heat.....it's great at the buiding stage just put the footing in for lifts, and the tubing can always add heat source later,,,,,,,do not forget to run at least 3 conduits from the house [water,electric,cable-phone-dsl] tons of insulation if you have -30 degree weather [insulation is the expense that keeps giving back $$$$] good luck have fun.bobbycoke
 
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