What size steel on workbench

[fallenherosdad]

I just built a new workbench. It's 30" deep and 10' long. The top is (2) 3/4" sheets of plywood. I am going to put a piece of steel on top of a 2' section. I'd like suggestions on thickness of the steel. I want a place I can do some pounding (not as hard as I would pound on the anvil), and just have a good solid metal surface.

So, metal folks, what's your opinion?

 

[kv501]

If you're going to do any pounding on it go 3/8" or thicker. 1/4" or smaller will develop a bow over time.

I have a piece of 3/8" on to of my bench and it works fine. My bench top is only one piece of 3/4", and I routed out 3/8" to make it fit flush. Took a long time and lots of dust (respirator), but it was worth it. Looks super cool.

 

[sberry]

If it was free I would go for anything about 12ga on up. If I had to go buy for this and wanted an idea piece about 1/4 or so.

 

[KraftwerkMk1Jetta]

At our shop at my work we covered our benches with 1/8" steel and it's held up very well to all the pounding we've thrown at it for the past two years. We had our steel supplier put a 90 degree bend on the sheet metal the width of the front face of the bench which is gives it a nice finished look. We also counter sunk the screws holding it down. If your bench is built strong enough to begin with, which yours looks like, anything more than 1/8" is overkill IMO.

EDIT: Missed the part where you stated only a 2 foot square section of the bench for the steel, I thought you wanted to cover the entire thing. If that's the case I'd go big or go home 1/2"!

 

[KEH]

Nice looking bench. !/2 inch should be more than adequate. A plate that thick would not jump around under hammering. I would ask a steel supplier about weight since a piece of steel that size will be quite heavy. 3/8 really should be enough, but you know the saying, better to have it and not need it than to need it and not hve it.

KEH

 

[sberry]

1/4 plate is a pinch over 10# a sq ft.

 

[fallenherosdad]

Thanks for the input. As far as securing it...I am planing to weld bolts to the bottom and drill holes through the plywood to secure from underneath.

 

[lynnbilodeau]

I would be patient and keep watching Craigslist for a deal.
I like re-purposing things.

Believe it or not, I have 2 inch thick steel to cover a work bench about that size. I bought the all steel welded together work bench for $90 at an auction. It included a working electric over hydraulic pipe bender that I am giving to a friend.

I bought 4 pieces of steel, 2 x 10 x 122 inches all for $300. I cut one in half to cover a small work bench. The other three are going on the big 10 foot work bench.

The friend I am giving the pipe bender to has a fork lift to move all this stuff around when we finish rehabbing a cinder block outbuilding into my work shop.

Who knows, maybe you will find just the right piece for cheap.

 

[TractorJeff]

What ever thickness you go with, router it in flush! You'll be way happier!

 

[AMCguy]

That's a great looking bench. I used 11 ga. on mine. It has 3/4'' MDF under it.

 

[wnstwolf]

As mentioned the weight is something to watch. I have a 3'x6' bench and wanted 3/8 top went to local supplier and between cost and weight I was shocked. Guy at counter said he had a 1/4 piece he would cut at a price break. You may want to hit your local,yard and see what they have. If there is a scrap or cut piece you may luck out.

 

[kv501]

As mentioned the weight is something to watch. I have a 3'x6' bench and wanted 3/8 top went to local supplier and between cost and weight I was shocked. Guy at counter said he had a 1/4 piece he would cut at a price break. You may want to hit your local,yard and see what they have. If there is a scrap or cut piece you may luck out.

Steel price is way, WAY down. We buy roughly 7.5 million pounds of steel a year where I work, and regular HRQC plate (mild sheet steel) is at $0.23/lb as of when I left the office this afternoon. If a shop tries to sell you 5 sq feet of steel for more than say $25 you're getting hosed. And that's with them cutting it.

 

[nickelmore]

With the price of scrap where it is you can shop you local shops for a piece of 1/4 inch or better stainless or reg steel. If you cant find a full piece section in a thing piece and a thinner piece for one side.

My go to bench is 1 inch thick 5 x 4 not too much move that without a forklift.

Look for a stainless plate.

 

[Heavymetalmechanic]

Nice looking bench! With that much plywood under the plate, and bolts welded below to secure it, 1/4" will handle everything you can throw at it. Anything you slam it with that will damage the plate resting on that heavy wood top will probably mess the whole bench up. I wager you could drop a small block Chevy head on it and not be able to tell.

At work we use 1/8" with angle iron cross-members underneath. It takes a serious blow to cause any major deformation. I use an unreinforced/supported 1/2" plate with legs welded to it at home and I have seriously abused it with no ill results. Picture flattening 1/4" plate with a 16lbs sledge kind of abuse. Our parts counter at work is 1/16" stainless on top of 1" plywood. It does not get hammered on but we toss pumps/starters/etc that weigh 50-150lbs on it daily and it's holding up well.

You mention wanting to hammer on it. What kind of projects do you expect to be doing? That bench looks like it can handle a fair bit of load, you will never regret going thicker, until you have to move! Grab what is available within your budget. If you decide to go thin, be prepared for it to be noisy when you pound on it unless it's very well secured.

 

[Iggi]

Check out your scrap yards and see what you find. Anything over 1/4" will work.

 

[csp]

Nice looking bench! With that much plywood under the plate, and bolts welded below to secure it, 1/4" will handle everything you can throw at it. Anything you slam it with that will damage the plate resting on that heavy wood top will probably mess the whole bench up. I wager you could drop a small block Chevy head on it and not be able to tell.

You mention wanting to hammer on it. What kind of projects do you expect to be doing? That bench looks like it can handle a fair bit of load, you will never regret going thicker, until you have to move! Grab what is available within your budget. If you decide to go thin, be prepared for it to be noisy when you pound on it unless it's very well secured.

Best answer yet.

 

[matt_i]

I would go for 1/4 or better 3/8 thickness. That way the welding you do it to attach the bolt/studs won't pringle it.

The heaviest metal top must have posts under it to be very solid if you expect anvil-like backup.

 

[maxpower_hd]

If you use 3/8 you could save some router work and dust by simply removing a section of the 3/4" and replace it with 3/8" ply leaving 3/8" for the steel and mount it as you already described. I think 3/8" would be plenty for what I would be doing with it. I already pound on my wood top and vise mounted to it without issue. I'm not sure what kind of abuse you plan on putting it through but I would think 1/2" would be way overkill for most normal tasks. If I thought I needed 1/2" I would have built a steel table.

 

[Keel]

I just built a new workbench. It's 30" deep and 10' long. The top is (2) 3/4" sheets of plywood. I am going to put a piece of steel on top of a 2' section. I'd like suggestions on thickness of the steel. I want a place I can do some pounding (not as hard as I would pound on the anvil), and just have a good solid metal surface.

So, metal folks, what's your opinion?

Very Very nice!!!!

I think I'd go to the local steel jobber/supplier and see what left over pieces they have . and see what you can get on a deal.. 1/4 to 3/8" should be more than enough, and if the left over piece is bigger than what you planned, so be it.. cut/router your bench to work with it, if it will be cheaper than telling them you need x thick and 2foot square..

Just an idea, but if you mount the metal flush to the table/bench like others have posted, you might want to see if you can have whatever size piece drilled once you pick a spot on the table/bench that the metal will live, and drill a hole for a router and a few counter sunk holes to mount the router,
so you'll have a built in router table in the work bench for when you need it, when you don't just take the router off the metal sheet..

 

[kenewagner]

I look at what the poster has built for a bench. With 11/2" of wood backing the steel, bolted down. I cant see any reason to go with anything over 10GA I used 10GA for my top of my wood bench. I don't beat on it like as anvil. The nice thing for me was I had a 90degree brake up for a back splash and a 90 degree brake down on the front for a lip. I really like it.


Ken

 

[Falcon67]

Very Very nice!!!!

I think I'd go to the local steel jobber/supplier and see what left over pieces they have .

This. The local metals place can sell left over/cut offs way cheaper than a fresh cutoff from a full sheet. I'd ask, then modify plans to fit the piece you find.

 

[Heavymetalmechanic]

If you update your profile with your location there may be someone in your area who may be able to help you source material. For example, I have most of a 4x8' sheet of 1/4" that I have no problem sharing with a fellow member.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Do you have or have you considered making a steel bench right beside your wood bench ? Make it the same height and depth of the other. Doing this could also give you a welding top for the future.

Otherwise, I'd do like some others have mentioned and search the local scrap yard and see what's available.