rodsnratfinks
Well-known member
What type, size, and brand of solder do prefer when working on electronics and what kinds of projects you use it on?
I've been using 60/40 for a while, but I'm thinking of switching to 63/37. What do you primarily work on with it? What thickness do you prefer to use? Brand?A eutectic tin-lead solder.
Can't get away from inhaling lead..
Lead does not vaporize when soldering. The smoke is rosin.Can't get away from inhaling lead..
Lead does not vaporize when soldering. The smoke is rosin.
Kester 44. Buy a pound roll of the 0.031" 63/37 rosin core. Part number 24-6337-0027.
Kester 44. Buy a pound roll of the 0.031" 63/37 rosin core. Part number 24-6337-0027.
Kester 44. Buy a pound roll of the 0.031" 63/37 rosin core. Part number 24-6337-0027.
Either Kester #245 or #44 63/37.
Since I retired from the RR, building and selling guitar and hi fi tube amplifies, supplements my income from SS and my RR pension.
Steve
You guys use .0031" or something larger? I work on a lot of stuff like guitar amps. I was trying to decide if I should get something thicker, like .0050" or .0062". I'm using .0031" right now.Same here. I build guitars, FX pedals and do some amp modifications along with using it for any other electronics or automotive (stereos mostly) wiring and it works great for everything I ever needed it for.
Kester 44. Buy a pound roll of the 0.031" 63/37 rosin core. Part number 24-6337-0027.
Soldering stations max out at 450C/842F, and the boiling point for lead is 1749C/3180F.Can't get away from inhaling lead..


FWIW, it's not outright outlawed. There are exceptions for high reliability systems, such as military/defense, aerospace, and medical devices for example.For many years, electronic manufacturing facilities have pool of molten 60/40 in "wave soldering" machine. I'm sure they had ventilation, but that is all outlawed.
Another vote for Kester 44.Kester 44. Buy a pound roll of the 0.031" 63/37 rosin core. Part number 24-6337-0027.
The smaller diameters allow you better control of how much solder is added to the joint.You guys use .0031" or something larger? I work on a lot of stuff like guitar amps. I was trying to decide if I should get something thicker, like .0050" or .0062". I'm using .0031" right now.
For thru-hole, 0.031" will give you a lot of control, but you do have to feed more of it for a given joint vs. a larger diameter solder wire. It's also excellent for larger SMD packages, and certainly drag soldering the latest IC components.
You can certainly go with a larger wire diameter if you wish, but without specifics, it's hard to make a proper recommendation. Photos of your boards & parts would help with this (i.e. see the hole diameter and pad size, as larger components would be best soldered with a larger wire diameter; 5W resistor leads vs. 1/4W for example).
In my case, I've multiple diameters (0.010", 0.022", 0.025", 0.031", 0.062") used for both SMD & PTH work. Most is 63/37, but I also have 62/36/2 silver (both of these are eutectic), 0.062" in 60/40 for tinning wire, and SAC307.
Most of the time I'm using Kester 44 in 0.031", core 66 (3.3% flux by weight).
You guys use .0031" or something larger? I work on a lot of stuff like guitar amps. I was trying to decide if I should get something thicker, like .0050" or .0062". I'm using .0031" right now.
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Based on the photo, you'd probably do well with 0.040" or 0.050". But with SMD, you'd probably want something smaller. Solder wire also happens to get less expensive as the wire diameter increases, as they don't have to draw it so many times to reach the desired diameter.Thanks for the informative response. I mostly work on vintage electronics such as stereo equipment, synthesizers, amplifiers, and radios. A lot of point to point through hole wiring from 24 to 12AWG. Occasionally, I do repair and rework on control modules for autos. I do a little bit of SMD as well.
...[snip photos]...
For many years, electronic manufacturing facilities have pool of molten 60/40 in "wave soldering" machine. I'm sure they had ventilation, but that is all outlawed.
Like the billion and billions of copper water pipe joined with time-lead solder.
And how many tire guy got lead poisoning from handling lead balancing weights.
I hate "nanny" regulations.
Like grounding a load center (breaker panel). For years it was the closest cold water pipe. Then a continuous un-insulted copper wire connected to both sides of the meter. Now you need 2 ground rods just because the equipment to measure if one is good enough is too expensive/hard to calibrate.
So since 1950, how many people have been killed because they grounded their load center to a cold water pipe ?
When I need to get some more lead solder this is what I will get. Thanks.Without a doubt Kester 44 63/37 Eutectic.
I worked near a wave soldering machine many years ago; for a couple of years. I didn't really pay attention to the extraction of fumes then.
Most workers would have ventilation and extraction fan sitting at a bench whole-day long soldering.
I just though it might something to do with lead.
In any case, it's just a precaution to avoid when possible.

"Lead is used in the soldering process in the form of lead/silver filler metals. When heated, lead oxide fumes are formed. Excessive exposure to lead oxide fumes can result in lead poisoning. Symptoms include loss of appetite, indigestion, nausea, vomiting, constipation, headache, abdominal cramps, nervousness, and insomnia. Lead is absorbed through the mucous membranes of the lung, stomach, or intestines and then enters the bloodstream".
Without a doubt Kester 44 63/37 Eutectic. Recently, I tried soldering with some other labeled 63/37 solder I had laying around after I discovered I was out of my Kester 44. It did not go well. I ended up redoing the part I had soldered, this time using Kester 44.
![]()
On the left, Kester 44 63/37 0.031" on the right no-name 63/37.
Kester 44. Buy a pound roll of the 0.031" 63/37 rosin core. Part number 24-6337-0027.
More hand wringing... You know what ***** about being obsessive? I bought a pound of .031" solder. Then freaked out because I thought it was too thin. Then I bought a pound of .062" (because I couldn't find .050"). I thought about getting .040" instead, but felt that I would regret that choice since they're so similar. Tonight I tried using some of the .031" stuff just for practice... Well, now I'm thinking that I might actually find .040", or even .031" to be ideal for me. However, the brand and model number that I have convinced myself will fulfill my wildest soldering dreams is not the brand I bought the .031" in, but it was $20, so I'd feel like a schmuck if I did anything other than keep it. But what if the .062" is too thick and I have a hard time getting consistent results? What if the Indium brand is inferior to the Kester brand? What if neither .031" nor .062" is ideal? Maybe I will own these rolls for decades and never know the sweet bliss that Kester .040" #44 63/37 rosin core solder could have afforded me had I only bought a pound of it when the time was right?
...
As I typed this, it's hard not to feel like a complete fool. I mean, we're talking about a difference of .009" - .022", depending on how you look at it.
I don't know. It's driving me a little crazy. I just discovered that my local electronics supply has a bunch of Kester 44 sitting on the shelf that is the same price as it is on Amazon, so now I can't get the thought out of my head that I should return the .062" and get .050" or even .040". When I looked at the .062"in the store, it was a lot thicker than I remember.Honestly, you are over-thinking it. You are not in a professional setting where the particular diameter can save a seconds on your soldering time and those seconds are worth money. Relax and enjoy what you have, if you find you don't like something about it, or want to try something else, THEN switch. In the meantime focus on just soldering and your technique. We won't even mention the various fluxes that are available![]()