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What Solder for 12v Wires

usdemt

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Even Google has failed me on this one. I typically only crimp anymore due to past experiences but when joining multiple smaller (20 guage) wires or just a quick solid connection of two 16 guage wires it would be nice to solder. Now that Radio Shack is dead I cannot find a place to go buy some and try it. The stuff I'm using is 60/40 rosin core and just over 1/16 in diameter. It seems to take way more heat then the wire insulation can take and still doesn't wet well. Any suggestions for a good solder for 12v wiring??
 
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dogdog

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cvairwerks

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Tin your wires individually first. Add a slight amount of solder to your iron’s tip just before you touch the joint you want to make. Also remember tip is applied to the bottom of the joint and solder to the top. Two 20 ga. wires should need less than about 3 seconds of heat to solder.
 

darkzero

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You need 12V solder. ;)

Really it's depends on the wire size. I don't solder big gauge wires like 0-4 awg or whatever. I use .031" 60/40 solder the most, Pb solder. I hate lead free solder. For 22 awg & smaller I use .015", 62/36/2. 1/16" is kind of fat for what I solder mostly but it's personal preference I guess.

I just ran out of my Radio Shack spools so I just bought a new spool. Got me a 1 lb of Kester 60/40 .031 rosin core. Kester brand was all we used at my old work (electronic repair). Paid under $22 on Amazon. Should last me the rest of my life.

Can find it cheaper on ebay but usually with old production dates. The spool from Amazon was fresh, prod date June 2020. They say the rosin core in the solder is only good for a few yrs but I've never had a problem with "expired" flux. My Radio Shack spools were over 10 yrs old & still worked fine. I have a bottle of rosin flux that is older than that & still works fine.
 
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usdemt

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Thank you darkzero for actually answering the question. I know many places to look. Just having a difficult time with the selection. You provided a great starting point.

Clearly the other two did not fully read my initial post.
 

darkzero

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No problem. I used to do a lot of automotive wiring when I worked at a shop so when I did solder wires .031" is what I prefered. As you probably know, with soldering, more is not better. And if I did need thicker solder I could just bunch up strands & twist them to make thicker solder. But I rarely needed to do that.
 

cvairwerks

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I did read your post. The solder you have is perfectly fine for what you are wanting to do, it's a technique problem or too small of an iron if you are melting insulation. Been certified under MIL-STD-2000 for aircraft and aerospace soldering for about half my current career and have done component level board repair since junior high school.
 

BukitCase

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The solder you have is maybe a bit too thick for the wires you're doing; the .031" would work better. I also prefer sn63/pb37 eutectic, seems to wet a little better. Been using it since 1961 when I built my first knight kit stereo as a sophomore in high school. entire rest of my career has been electronics oriented, and the sn63 eutectic has never let me down.

If I didn't still have several spools of it, this is what i'd get

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00068IJOU/?tag=atomicindus08-20

A bit more info -

https://fctsolder.com/eutectic-solder/

You already got some good help on methods. HTH... Steve
 

pizza

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knowing what your application is would help a lot, but i usually avoid soldering unless it involves directly attaching stuff to a PCB. for example, have you considered terminal blocks? more reliable and nicer to work with imho.

but if you want to solder...

use a eutectic alloy because it melts at the lowest possible temperature, and it melts at a single temperature instead of over a temp range. as BukitCase said, for a Sn-Pb alloy, that's 63/37. forget 60/40

as cvairwerks said, tin your wires first before soldering them together.

better still, put a bit of flux on them first. i use this stuff, but there are many good choices:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00425FUW2/?tag=atomicindus08-20

and for a clean look, finish it off with heat shrink tubing.

ok and finally for your actual question, what's a good solder? many good options, but for general purpose stuff, just go with kester Sn-Pb 63/37 in your desired diameter.

you can read about kester's various products here

https://www.kester.com/products/category/solder-wire/leadcontent/57

the last thing you need to decide on is the flux type.

for general purpose, just go with kester 44. this has a RA flux core that is fairly aggressive and great at wetting.

if you are working on pretty clean, shiny stuff that doesn't need as aggressive of a flux core, consider kester 285 (RMA flux).

you can read a little about different flux types here https://evertiq.com/news/16783
and https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flux_(metallurgy)#Rosin_fluxes

here is a decent thread: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/which-kester-solder-to-buy/

what % flux?
for kester 44, imo just get 2.2% flux. since this RA flux is already aggressive, 3.3% isn't needed, and you can always add more flux separately

putting it all together, my overall recommendation for you is kester 44 63/37 2.2% in a reasonable diameter (0.02-0.03").

if you can find it, just buy kester 2463370017
this is kester 44, Sn-Pb 63/37, 2.2% flux, 0.025" diameter

that's what my next spool will be.

gl, hope that helps
 
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TuxThePenguin

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I use a lot of .025" solder, but you can use any diameter that works for you. I typically buy MG Chemicals, sometimes Chemtronics. Those brands, plus Kester and Multicore all make some really good solder (and also separate flux if you wanted to buy that, though you don't usually need to add flux separately for just soldering wires together)

I like RMA flux though the stuff I have is RA. RA is really the best if you're able to clean it off when you're done. It has the strongest action, but is worse to leave on than RMA and no-clean. I do like no-clean if I'm working on surface mount components on a PCB where it's too difficult to clean the whole board with alcohol when I finish. I think RMA is a good middle ground, more action than no-clean, but less potentially-corrosive than RA if not cleaned.

I have MG Chemicals 4884-227G for my 63/37 stuff right now. I use lead alloy solder whenever I solder something that could be subjected to vibration. I have some lead-free stuff but automotive is literally the last place I'd ever consider using it. All the lead-free stuff is more brittle and prone to cracking over time.
 
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American Locomotive

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The other important thing is to make sure your soldering iron tip is clean and well tinned. If the tip is dirty, you will slowly heat the wire up, which causes the heat to travel down the wire and start melting the insulation.

You want the tip clean and tinned so the wire heats up fast, and you have the heat applied for as little time as possible.
 

exmaxima1

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Quality 60/40 solder should be fine (I prefer Kester). You start out saying 20 gauge wires, but then you mention 16 gauge wires. Huge difference in the amount of heat needed to make a quick joint. Likely (as others have noted) you need a bigger iron and better tip. If the tip is worn out, or crusty, it won't transfer heat quickly into the joint.
 

Fluelikesymptoms

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I would recommend kester 44. I would also recommend sticking with leaded solder.

If sourcing is a problem for you I would suggest https://gokimco.com/ I've had pretty good experience with them, and if you are patient they occasionally have some fair sales you can snag some stuff up on.
 

DFB

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I also use a Kester solder .040 66/44 rosin core...wets good flows easy, works well for me on all my automotive connections.

What we use to have as a standard in the old electronic factory for most all our assemblies. I was Mil 2000 Cert also then.

Like its been said correct heat keeps flow time to minimum. Using extra flux helps too

http://www.techni-tool.com/488SO039
 

tym

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Tin your wires individually first. Add a slight amount of solder to your iron’s tip just before you touch the joint you want to make. Also remember tip is applied to the bottom of the joint and solder to the top. Two 20 ga. wires should need less than about 3 seconds of heat to solder.
This. A lot of issues people have with soldering comes down to improper technique.

The RoHS-compliant stuff does have a higher melting point, so I usually use leaded solder and stock up whenever I see spools at flea markets.
 
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