I decided I want to use 1/2" copper to build my air compressor manifold. Does it matter what solder I use? I don't have access to a torch for brazing so I'm hoping I can just use my map gas and solder. What do you guys think?
What solder to use?
- Thread starter Vette10R
- Start date
Hawk
Well-known member
Better to get silver solder (but many argue about that). And I preferred map gas. 1/2 inch copper is a piece of cake to solder. Assuming you know how to solder, j/k clean and flux it well.
machine_punk
Well-known member
Silver soldering IS brazing. (the definition is based on the temperature required to melt the filler material).
Based on the reading I have done, I would generally recommend brazing, if the joint will be exposed to a lot of vibration. I would be comfortable with regular plumbing solder, if it will not be exposed to vibration.
I use oxy-acetylene for all three processes (soldering, brazing & welding). The fuel/air torch (Propane or MAP) torch may be enough for brazing with silver solder...but I have not done that myself.
However you end up doing it, degrease well, scuff to a shiny surface and use the appropriate flux for the base metal, filler metal and level of heat you plan to use (soldering vs. brazing).
Kev.
Based on the reading I have done, I would generally recommend brazing, if the joint will be exposed to a lot of vibration. I would be comfortable with regular plumbing solder, if it will not be exposed to vibration.
I use oxy-acetylene for all three processes (soldering, brazing & welding). The fuel/air torch (Propane or MAP) torch may be enough for brazing with silver solder...but I have not done that myself.
However you end up doing it, degrease well, scuff to a shiny surface and use the appropriate flux for the base metal, filler metal and level of heat you plan to use (soldering vs. brazing).
Kev.
Cyberbear
Well-known member
Regular plumbing solder should do the trick,; clean, flux and put the heat where you want the solder to flow.
98ssuck
Well-known member
95/5 solder is what you want.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
60/40 lead tin. Easy to use. Lower melting point. Flows well.
Don't SNORT THE FUMES !
Don't SNORT THE FUMES !
I prefer not to use any lead based solder for piping, as do not want it around where it could be accidentally used for a potable water system. Have some 50/50 around somewhere & it needs to be scrapped.
dlcwent
Member Emeritus
We used regular solder on our air pipes. I've always liked 50/50 lead/ tin but we can't get any solder with lead in it around here. We've had the copper pipes in use for over a year and have never had any leaks or problems with it. We have a commercial garage and air is a very big deal in our operation as we use a lot of air tools.
Big Daddy Chop Shop
Well-known member
I would highly recommend 15% silver, use a air/acetylene or Oxy/acetylene torch. This will provide the heat needed to do the job with 15%. Done properly, you will have superior strength, and will have zero issues with leaks. I would recommend purging lines with nitrogen as you braze. Otherwise you will have a lot of junk to clean from your line.
Alternatively, 5% would be ok, doesn't flow out quite as well in my opinion, and the strength is a bit lower, but it is cheaper.
Either way, use hard copper (acr would be my recommendation), and the appropriate fittings. Will hold much more pressure than you will ever see.
Alternatively, 5% would be ok, doesn't flow out quite as well in my opinion, and the strength is a bit lower, but it is cheaper.
Either way, use hard copper (acr would be my recommendation), and the appropriate fittings. Will hold much more pressure than you will ever see.
djjsr
Well-known member
Don't over complicate it or waste your money. Regular plumbing solder and a hand held propane torch will be more than adequate enough to do the job.
pancho400cid
Well-known member
ford33
Well-known member
Regular plumbing solder is fine. It's what I used and is working fine for the last 3 years. No leaks and easy to solder.
RegeSullivan
Well-known member
Plumbing solder will be fine, if you can find 50/50 or 60/40 lead solder it will be a little easier to make a good joint than using lead free. Lead solders flow a bit slower than lead free so even if you over heat your joint a little it will not flow out and leave a void as quickly as lead free. Your prep work and sweating technique will be more important than than the solder you choose.
LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
Oxy Acetylene for 15% on 1/2" ? Jeeeze...
Got a Bernzomatic torch, an MC or B tank setup? You'll be fine...
Tommy
Got a Bernzomatic torch, an MC or B tank setup? You'll be fine...
Tommy
yeah but if he tig welded the copper together, he would get far superior strength than the 15% silver. if you are going to over do something, may as well go all out...
nadogail
Well-known member
I use acid flux and 50/50 solder. The acid flux is not suitable for electrical use.
Eutectic solder is very easy to use, but it expensive.
IMHO, 63/37 eutectic has not only the lowest melting point but there is, for practical purposes, no plastic state; that is it is either solid or liquid and very easy to use.
Propane torches make enough heat for 1/2" copper and 50/50 solder.
Eutectic solder is very easy to use, but it expensive.
IMHO, 63/37 eutectic has not only the lowest melting point but there is, for practical purposes, no plastic state; that is it is either solid or liquid and very easy to use.
Propane torches make enough heat for 1/2" copper and 50/50 solder.
SgtHawkUSMC
Well-known member
Wow, some of you guys I seriously hope are screwing with this guy. Talk of Oxyacetylene, different percentages of tin/silver? Go to the Depot/Lowes, where ever and pick up what ever is cheap for plumbing solder. Clean the fittings and pipes well with a little sand paper or the tubing cleaner tools that wear out quick. Put a little flux on the connection and sweat solder the pipe. Use a simple propane torch or your mapp gas is good too. One thing that will make it a ton easier is a push button starter for the propane torch.
Like was mentioned before, don't over complicate it. You're on the right start using copper. I can't believe all the people I see out here that use PVC or cast iron (not galvy). Add a small piece of cast iron to a system and pull it after a month or so. It will be full of rust. Imagine a full system that doesn't have perfectly dry air from the minute it leaves the tank.
Like was mentioned before, don't over complicate it. You're on the right start using copper. I can't believe all the people I see out here that use PVC or cast iron (not galvy). Add a small piece of cast iron to a system and pull it after a month or so. It will be full of rust. Imagine a full system that doesn't have perfectly dry air from the minute it leaves the tank.
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James-W
Well-known member
I am in the regular plumbing solder camp and either a propane torch or a map gas torch, whichever you happen to have on hand. The oxy-acetaline torch is more than a little overkill.
Elginz
Well-known member
Yup.
Do what this say's,**** I solder 6" copper with propane,grab some type L copper,Oatey or any brand name flux and what ever solder you pick up and put it together,it will still be there holding air when you die.
Lots on advice, some conflicting. When I have a copper question, I go here:
http://www.copper.org/applications/plumbing/cth/
Nothing like getting from an expert source.
http://www.copper.org/applications/plumbing/cth/
Nothing like getting from an expert source.
Exit 61
Well-known member
If there was a like button ..
KISS Keep it simple Stupid ..... Dont over think this.....
KISS Keep it simple Stupid ..... Dont over think this..... bobmulry
Well-known member
Just a heads up.....................
95/5 solder is 5 times stronger than 50/50...........
1/8 to 1" size 50/50 = 200 psi 95/5 = 1090 psi @ 100 degrees
I's a big one with a lot of info and worth the read:
http://www.copper.org/publications/pub_list/pdf/copper_tube_handbook.pdf
Bob
95/5 solder is 5 times stronger than 50/50...........
1/8 to 1" size 50/50 = 200 psi 95/5 = 1090 psi @ 100 degrees
I's a big one with a lot of info and worth the read:
http://www.copper.org/publications/pub_list/pdf/copper_tube_handbook.pdf
Bob
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radrush
Well-known member
If you want better than the ordinary stuff you can get at the local big-box store...here ya go...
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http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HWFMOE/?tag=atomicindus08-20
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http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HWFMOE/?tag=atomicindus08-20
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Joe Reed
Well-known member
FWIW, you can get 50/50 or 60/40 at anyplace that sells stained glass supplies. I get mine locally at Hobby Lobby....
59 wagon man
Well-known member
i used 50/50 and it held for yrs. even if you used lead free you would still never want to use this pipe for water as it will have oil in the pipe from the compressor