Live in NYC, was an honest GC, dealt with numerous GCs... there should be a special hunting season for N.Y. GCs, any weapon/method allowed.
Hope you have a
good architect/engineer.. have them spec
EVERYTHING out, to be added to the contract. Everything from the concrete PSI load grade to the plumbing pipe size, otherwise you will get screwed; architects for an added fee will even create a materials/cost list.
Tell the GC up front, if he cuts corners, he is ripping it out; I have enforced this a few times. Take pictures every day, if possible, just in case you have legal issues. Make sure your plans are OKed by the building department before you do anything. Supply and demand, GCs in NY are getting paid well, especially if you go into contract once they are busy in the spring and summer, go into contract off peak. If work starts in the busy times, have a clause stating they will work in a timely manner, as without it they may jump from your job to others, extending the completion.
Concrete=4500 psi,allow no extra water added when requested by the GC, he will request it; require a slump test or have the driver sign no extra water was added then the specified amount; inform the concrete supplier the load will be tested, even if you do not follow through. Was also a foreman for a GC, and had a tough time with concrete subs watering down crete, had to be at the truck for load dumps, especially if a concrete pumper was used.
http://images.google.com/imgres?img...=concrete+slump+test&hl=en&safe=off&sa=X&um=1
As mentioned vapor barrier/insulation/reinforcement; insulation, more the better but gets expensive fast. Personally I would not go less then a
FULL 6" of concrete, over a compacted gravel base. If possible keep crete wet for as close to 28 days as possible. If winter pour, have them protect crete from freezing.
2x6 wall/6" insulation a plus, but more expensive. Make sure the architect specifies a good Tyvek wrap job, air seal extremely important for insulation, most GCs cut corners here.
Whatever earth is removed from excavation, is not to be used for back fill, if removed it should be replaced with gravel, back fill settles for up to 50 years.
Min 2" soil stack for wash room, 1 1/2" sink lines clog
Low E double pane windows. Considerably better the standard double pane. Possible triple pane for windows facing street for noise (damn expensive). You want "*****" paper around windows and doors, min 9-12" from all sides, all caulk polyurethane or better. Specify "*****" paper around entire roof edge
If siding is vinyl, check out Norandex Polar Wall. more expensive but insulated, stronger. If I were to do my house over, I would seriously consider cement board siding.
Roof sheathing..minimum 29/32" , don't let them use 1/2", if you get 1/2" the moisture separates the plys and in a few years you have sponge board roof. Nails are best for shingles, 4 per shingle. Floor sheathing, same or better as for roof, material with inter lock edges, presanded one side, again screwed down or live with squeaks.
Pre-wire phone, Ethernet, possible cable, possible home run alarm/fire/CO detectors.
If your utility connections are to be moved, have the architect map the location, or they may be an eyesore. Nothing like gas pipes/meter near your entrance doors.
If your going for a heating system, get the most efficient, as it will pay with the ridiculous utility rates we have here.
Specify 5/8" sheetrock, screwed not nailed. Specify at least 2 weeks drying time before applying final joint compound coat.
Doors...Have the architect beef up the jams so you can run 5-6" screws for the lock plates. Specify door frames are to be primed with oil base primer before installation. Stay away from expensive natural wood doors.
Bathroom...in shower/tub area, use Wonder board or better, NO sheetrock. Fill joints in these areas with auto body filler or water resistant equivalent.
Wood to foundation sill plate, caulked to make air tight.
No sure of the electric code where you are, have all normal runs at least #12.
"I would ask them about their insurance"
They all state they have insurance in NY.. call their insurance company directly, anyone can doctor up an insurance document or drop the coverage. Bonding is great protection for you. Possible good idea to get a short term 1 million personal umbrella coverage, relatively cheap ( I pay 170./yr)
http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-a-contractors-bond.htm
No money up front until substantial materials are delivered. 1/3 at that point, 1/3 at 2/3 job completion, remainder upon completion; might be a good idea to hold back 10% on completion for a few months, or you will never GC again. Make sure
ALL inspections are completed and signed off by the building department before final payment; if not signed off, you will pay for it later.
"I know some of this may sound like I don't really know what I am talking about, I'm sorry to say I don't"
After your build you will
"Like I said this is all new to me so please don't ruff me up to bad."
Crucification is pretty rare around here
