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what to clean tools with the prevent rust?

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Buckgnarly

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WD40 has worked for me, and I see huge temp swings with condensation here. I use a lot, especially on non plated stuff like impacts.
 

AndrewV

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Dec 28, 2013
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Fl
Theres so many threads on this one op.
Some on here use goo gone, wd40, mineral spirits, and so on. I just use the brake, trans, oil fluid that i was working on, and wipe with a clean shop rag.
 
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nickjj

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Feb 21, 2014
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Bournemouth UK
Bit distraught to see my new (but cheepo) bit set had started to rust after one use, my fault for not cleaning up...
 

drummingpariah

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Manchester, NH
I think it depends on the tool.

For hand tools, I don't really clean them. They end up seeing a lot of abuse in my garage, and rust is rarely what kills them.

For tooling tools (bits, ez-outs, taps, dies, etc) WD40 hasn't let me down, as far as I can tell.

For scissors/shears/snips, I'm pretty picky. I run a fine rasp on the blade nearly every time i use them, then oil with WD40 again.
 

GRX

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Keep in mind many of the products mentioned are mostly solvent based and will eventually evaporate. Not ideal for long-term storage. In that regard my advice after cleaning would be to use some wax based furniture polish like Pledge. Yes, seriously. Can last for years, and smells good too.
 
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Dave455

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I've tried a load if things over the years, and to be honest WD 40 is hard to beat! I buy it by the gallon whenever I see it on a promo and use it in a regular oil can (aerosols spray it everywhere)!

The only thing that might be better, especially on blued surfaces, is Shell Ensis, but you have to buy a lot to get it cheap!

For really long term storage (i.e. years) heat up a pan with 50/50 beeswax and petroleum jelly! Once it's well mixed, dip whatever you want to protect in Ensis, then straight into the wax mix! Once it dries it's really long lasting, but easy to remove without residue!
 

Mavawreck

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Durham NC
I just wipe down my personal tools, but the crustys from the flea market get;

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For cleaning, I'll use medium to fine steel wool or a brass bristle brush as well.
 

Southern

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Jan 27, 2012
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I'm surprised everyone here is so patient with this thread. There's gotta be 1000 threads on this board and about a zillion pages on google discussing this very rudimentary topic in depth.
 

EJM02

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Oct 23, 2011
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149
Regular wipe down with WD. I live near the coast and have left a few tools in the backyard overnight only to find them looking like they have been stuck in a cave for a decade the next morning. Terrible sight to see a new pair of snappy pliers with bright orange surface rust. Good wipe with WD cleans them right up.

WD stands for Water Displacement. 40 is for the 40th formula they came up with that finally worked. It was originally used to displace water off of circuit boards in spacecraft (if I remember correctly).

I now buy it in the big bottle and use a hand sprayer to give my shovels and other outdoor tools a quick coat between uses.
 

carcajou

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Dec 7, 2012
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SW Alberta
Gun oil like Breakfree CLP might be a vote if you are putting the tools into long term storage.

Funny you should mention Breakfree CLP. I have been using it for years on tools and find it a one time application. Last week i did some roller drawer slides with breakfree, some with fluid film. Both worked well but i think i give a noticeable edge to the breakfree treated roller slides.
 

d.mcfarland

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Funny you should mention Breakfree CLP. I have been using it for years on tools and find it a one time application. Last week i did some roller drawer slides with breakfree, some with fluid film. Both worked well but i think i give a noticeable edge to the breakfree treated roller slides.

I know on firearms it really does clean lube and protect, so I would imagine any tool surface it would do the same. A little goes a long way so would be about as expensive as wd40 I would think if done right.
 

notlob

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norcal
WD40 for cleaning and short term rust prevention. There are better products for long term storage.
 

Fretters

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South Yorkshire, England
End of the day, there's little will actually prevent rust. You're merely making it harder for it to start. Even the best of stuff is practically useless in the right conditions. Just coat them with something and keep them used and/or dry.

That's also one reason I tend to avoid using plastic and metal containers & toolboxes whenever possible, due to their tendency to sweat. Most of my sockets are just placed in a plastic toolbox randomly, but they're lathered in oil to compensate. Usually have to wipe them down before I can use them. :D

Old mothballs were apparently quite good at deterring rust when placed in a container too. The Camphor, apparently. Must have coated the tools slightly somehow, but I think they're doing away with it in most modern mothballs.


Use them and get them naturally oiled from use and expierence........:dunno:

Can be counter-productive if things are stood unused for a few years though. When it comes to derusting, handwheels always seem more inclined to rust again than any other part of a machine. Gone through elimination of machined surfaces etc. as the root cause, and it seems to boil down to contact with skin being something which provides a lasting impression, so to speak. :D
 
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I don't leave my tools where there is high moisture like on the ground in a garage or anything. I put my tools back in the tool box after wiping them down with a rag. In my tool box drawers I have baking soda to absorb any moisture.
 
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