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What to do with bare cinder block building...

country83

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I've been on these forums for a couple years, lurking, reading. About a year and a half ago I bought a new place...And it has a big garage out back built out of cinder block. The problem is, the original cinder block was never sealed in any way, and over the years the moisture has caused some leaching of the block. I'd like to seal the block somehow, but I'm not sure of the best way to do that. I considered Dry-lock, but to do the whole exterior of the building would get expensive. My dad suggested parging and then using silicone sealer, but that would have to be reapplied every few years. Thoughts?

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tcianci

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First thing to do is be sure that the building is actually cinder block. Many folks call cement block buildings "cinder block"
 

CNGsaves

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KS and OK
Post up some Pics.

Also likely depends on your Location as very humid/moist climate like Florida or TX/gulf coast, will need different approach than AZ. UPDATE GJ Profile with a Location.

Are you wanting to Heat/AC the building ?? Any insulation plans ??
 
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country83

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First thing to do is be sure that the building is actually cinder block. Many folks call cement block buildings "cinder block"
Is there a difference between cinder block and cement block? I've always used the terms interchangeably.

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country83

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Post up some Pics.

Also likely depends on your Location as very humid/moist climate like Florida or TX/gulf coast, will need different approach than AZ. UPDATE GJ Profile with a Location.

Are you wanting to Heat/AC the building ?? Any insulation plans ??
PA. I'd eventually like to heat/AC it but that's a few years off. I had pics on my old phone but haven't taken any with the new one yet.

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tcianci

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That link appears to have information that seems to be poorly translated from another language. The reason I asked my first question is that it's likely, that many of us have never actually seen a "cinder block". The common terminology used today is "CMU" which stands for cement masonry unit. If you have a block building, wall or foundation, it's likely cement block / CMU not cinder block.
 

padroo

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I built my garage out of block back in 1984. This summer my wife says, we have to do something with that garage so we called a professional painter and he painted it with Sherwin Williams paint that is designed for block. It looks great. I will try to post tomorrow the exact name of the paint. It looks like
A new building. Now she wants to paint the interior.
 

mm08822

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If you do plan to paint it yourself and plan to use a roller, expect needing a second coat. I have painted 5 different basements (each one originally unpainted) both cinder and concrete. Each needed a second coat - no if ands or buts. IIRC, Cinder could have used a 3rd if you looked hard enough. (I've only painted with whites and bieges to keep things brighter.)

Spraying may be better for a more uniform application, but you still need enough paint to do that properly.

For exterior walls, parging with colored mortar is frequently done. Color will fade slightly over time, but later repainting with similar color could be done with one coat.
Parging will cost a lot more than paint only, but can look super nice with some minor architectural accents added.
 
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TractorJeff

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For what its worth, I always thought the black/dark gray blocks were "cinder" and the white/light gray were "concrete/cement" blocks?
 

Red05GT

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We have built several concrete block self storage units. We used Sherwin Williams Heavy
Duty Block Filler. It is bright white, but can be tinted which helps if top coated with a finish
color coat. It is great left white inside for light reflection. Time on units vary from 10-22 yrs. Never had any peeling or scaling problems with it. We tried a couple of off brand
paint products that were supposedly the same thing, but was not.
 

dandan111

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Depends on condition of blocks I'd say. Treat it and seal it with paint. Iv seen several
Old brick building around town they're using a nice heavy paint of some sort. Looks real
Nice after it's done. Gives a old but clean look.
 

kbs2244

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There was a time when any town of size had a block making outfit on the edge of town.
Block were heavy and transpiration expensive, so local mf made sense.
But I do not think "Cinder" block has been available since the 1950's when natural gas took over from coal as the home heating fuel of choice.
That eliminated the major, and free, source of coal cinders from the local block maker.

There used to be some competition between the block maker and the local street department over the waste cinder piles people would leave in the alley.

To the OP, use the SW stuff.
Be ready to use a lot.
It will soak in a lot.
 

DTE

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If you do seal it with a clear sealer make sure you get one without silicone in it, if you ever do decide to paint it.
 
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ambenz

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Nice garage, I'd paint it, OR....cover it in a styrofoam exterior and stucco as it will help with insulating the space!

eifs.gif
 

Firebrick43

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You can use a surface bond cement such as quickwall. It will increase the strength of your wall several times over, look like stucco, can be colored if desired and reduce water infiltration, all in one step.

https://www.quikrete.com/pdfs/data_sheet-quikwall%20sbc%201230%201231.pdf

Bottom of last page has the strength gain and water resistance rates of the product
 
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ard

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I am surprised at all the advice about what paint to use, without really a discussion of the overall wall performance, insulation, moisture control, etc.

This isn't my area of expertise, but I like the idea of stopping water and moisture OUTSIDE.

Inside I'd want insulation, vapor barrier perhaps, then whatever finish I could afford.
 

padroo

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It took three coats of paint to seal the block on my garage. It was rolled on with a heavy nap roller.

Bare untreated block are very porous, the day after a rain the outside would look dry but the inside would be wet on the one wall the rain hit.
 

cowboy73

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Those are most certainly cement blocks. Cinder blocks that I have seen are a dark gray, black color and very rough and very soft and porous.
 
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country83

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You can use a surface bond cement such as quickwall. It will increase the strength of your wall several times over, look like stucco, can be colored if desired and reduce water infiltration, all in one step.

https://www.quikrete.com/pdfs/data_sheet-quikwall sbc 1230 1231.pdf

Bottom of last page has the strength gain and water resistance rates of the product
I was considering quickwall but I'd still have to seal it, no?

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country83

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I am surprised at all the advice about what paint to use, without really a discussion of the overall wall performance, insulation, moisture control, etc.

This isn't my area of expertise, but I like the idea of stopping water and moisture OUTSIDE.

Inside I'd want insulation, vapor barrier perhaps, then whatever finish I could afford.
That's the reason I was considering Dry-lock. Keep the moisture out.

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pointer80

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have you considered furring it out with furring strips and possibly foam board insulation then vinyl siding or steel siding? That approach would provide insulation and also give you a maintenance free weatherproof exterior. If you look at the included photos of my barn you can see the vinyl siding on the front left side that is attached right to the block
 

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Firebrick43

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I was considering quickwall but I'd still have to seal it, no?

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No, quikwall is an acrylic modified fiber reinforced stucco. The acrylic not only enhances adhesion but also makes it essentially waterproof. Similar products are in fact used to seal concrete and ferrocement water tanks. It will do you the most good on the outside of the building. Doing both side will significantly increase the strength of the wall.

Table 3 in the link I showed put water transfer at 0.006 oz/sf/min.

Two coats of laytex paint is 2 oz/sf/min

So quickwall is 333% more resistant that several layers of laytex paint.

Other make a valid point of insulating now to reap several benefits at once. While I would not recommend wood furing strips against masonry(rot and thermal bridging problems) there are panel systems with cast in plastic nailers. InSoFast is one such system. It's basically 1/2 of an icf. Placed on the outside with a water proof covering(siding/stucco/quikwall) gives you insulation and thermal mass to the inside, a really good combination. It looks expensive at first but total cost is actually close to a wood stud/exp sheathed wall

https://insofast.com/explore/a-basement-cost-comparison/#jump00
 
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padroo

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I finally found my paint cans, like another poster posted I used Sherwin Williams Loxon XP. It hasn't been on there that long but the professional painter told me that is is designed for block.

In the spring I plan on bricking the front part way up to give it a little flavor.
 

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bdamico

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I finally found my paint cans, like another poster posted I used Sherwin Williams Loxon XP. It hasn't been on there that long but the professional painter told me that is is designed for block.

In the spring I plan on bricking the front part way up to give it a little flavor.

yes loxon is what you use on block application. I assume you followed up with latex topcoat within 30 days I believe.
 
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country83

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I appreciate all the thoughts and comments. That Insofar system is intriguing, though I'm not sure it would work on the outside. The one end of the garage (you can see it on the left side in the pic I posted) has block going up to the trusses then already has siding above that. To install the Insofar system would require me somehow building out from the bottom of the existing siding to keep the water from getting behind it. Not entirely a deal breaker but an issue. Fortunately that's the only wall like that, as none of the rest have siding up there (the soffit goes all the way down against the block on all the rest).

The other issue is talking the wife into spending the $$$ for a system like that. I think she would accept spending the money for Drylok but I'm not sure about the Insofar. Honestly my thinking is if I can seal the block, insulate the ceiling, and replace the fiberglass garage doors with some good insulated steel ones that'd make a huge difference.

Maybe I can do the Insofar system inside....Hmmm...

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JTG

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have you considered furring it out with furring strips and possibly foam board insulation then vinyl siding or steel siding? That approach would provide insulation and also give you a maintenance free weatherproof exterior. If you look at the included photos of my barn you can see the vinyl siding on the front left side that is attached right to the block

I second this method. It will give it a much more up to date, residential look.
 

tlmartin84

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I second this method. It will give it a much more up to date, residential look.

I think this is the winner........

Place the strips, foam board, trim out your openings and the follow up with a decent vinyl OR metal.

Other than washing it, you are home free.......

I have log siding on my house, and metal siding on my shop. I wish 100 hundred times over I would have went with some that has LESS maintenance on my house. Staining it every 5 years or so *****.
 

tlmartin84

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I also want to say, that I used the drylock on my block walls, it looked good, but took about 2-3 times the coverage than what the can states.

Given that, metal siding is close to the same price per sf.
 

johninct

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First thing to do is be sure that the building is actually cinder block. Many folks call cement block buildings "cinder block"
My thoughts exactly!! I still have a pile of staked "Cinder Blocks" so I agree.
 
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