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What to do?
- Thread starter Copeland
- Start date
Bondo
Well-known member
Ayuh,.... What do you plan to do on this rough floor,..??
Is this a auto shop,..??
A wood workin' shop,..??
Is this a auto shop,..??
A wood workin' shop,..??
mnavillus
Well-known member
thats a good questions by Bondo as to what the use of the shop is primarily for, also See if you can post a couple of pics of the wood? also what is the thickness of the wood? plywood? or other?
how far apart are the floor joist underneath 12", 18"?
how far apart are the floor joist underneath 12", 18"?
why no possibility of smoothing out? had a friend put down rought cut wood over an old floor in his house, then rented a floor sander to sand it smooth. it was a bit of work but turned out nice.
if you'r not parking cars on it, maybe some liquid floor leveler then 3/4" plywood on top of that? or 2x sleepers leveled and shimmed and then plywood?
what's under the rought cut wood?
if you'r not parking cars on it, maybe some liquid floor leveler then 3/4" plywood on top of that? or 2x sleepers leveled and shimmed and then plywood?
what's under the rought cut wood?
shaun oriold1
Well-known member
call hardwood flooring finishing guys if you want a super smooth floor. Ask around for one who uses a planer, opposed to a sander. You can get it smooth as glass, then urethane on top.
Epoxy would work great on wood! Garage tiles as well (Swisstrax / Racedeck)
I'm not sure if I totally understand the construction methods, so some of the above might be a problem if the wood is moving a lot.
I'd love to see a picture of the floor, but also whats below? is there insulation?, Is the wood resting on the ground?
S.
Epoxy would work great on wood! Garage tiles as well (Swisstrax / Racedeck)
I'm not sure if I totally understand the construction methods, so some of the above might be a problem if the wood is moving a lot.
I'd love to see a picture of the floor, but also whats below? is there insulation?, Is the wood resting on the ground?
S.
Bondo
Well-known member
Its a small engine shop and other odds and ends, its all full cut 2x6. Everything is spiked down.
Ayuh,.... How much deviation, in how far,..?? 1/2" board to board,..?? 1/4",..??
Could ya cover it with 3/4" plywood, screwed, 'n glued,..??
Steel plate from a scrap yard would be solid, but possibly slippery,...
mnavillus
Well-known member
is there floor insulated from underneath? i am assuming some type of spray foam for waterproofing?
if its insulated and you took into account the moisture...i would probably use some type of vinyl "click and lock" tile or planks there are several very reasonable price and very durable products you can get from you local floor store..
epoxy would work also but i am a little afraid of all the floor seams that need to be treated and bridge + i don't know how much movement you have with your wood floor
do you have a few Pics?
good luck
if its insulated and you took into account the moisture...i would probably use some type of vinyl "click and lock" tile or planks there are several very reasonable price and very durable products you can get from you local floor store..
epoxy would work also but i am a little afraid of all the floor seams that need to be treated and bridge + i don't know how much movement you have with your wood floor
do you have a few Pics?
good luck
call hardwood flooring finishing guys if you want a super smooth floor. Ask around for one who uses a planer, opposed to a sander. You can get it smooth as glass, then urethane on top.
S.
That would only work if they are tongue and groove and toe nailed into the tongue. Otherwise if they are face nailed the planet blades would be toast after a single pass.
shaun oriold1
Well-known member
That would only work if they are tongue and groove and toe nailed into the tongue. Otherwise if they are face nailed the planet blades would be toast after a single pass.
Totally correct. He did say they were spiked down, so its probably through the face. 86 my comment about a using a planer.
James-W
Well-known member
It wouldn't work very well for a floor sander either, the nails would ruin the sandpaper belts pretty quickly. If that's the case, then about the only practical way of fixing it would be shims and plywood, or some sort of floor leveling material.Totally correct. He did say they were spiked down, so its probably through the face. 86 my comment about a using a planer.
Other than replacing the whole floor, he has limited options. If he replaces the floor there are a myriad of options available to him.
OJ Bartley
Well-known member
I guess we would need to know your end goal. What would you like to achieve? By floor covering, do you mean cosmetic, or do you want to functionally level/smooth things out?
Pics would really be helpful if possible, as would some detail on the subfloor construction/materials. Just so we know what we're dealing with.
Pics would really be helpful if possible, as would some detail on the subfloor construction/materials. Just so we know what we're dealing with.
JRC3
Well-known member
Either take it up and put down some tongue and groove sheeting or just install the sheeting over top the existing floor with plenty of screws.
Then maybe paint it with some epoxy, deck renew, or something thick and durable.
Then maybe paint it with some epoxy, deck renew, or something thick and durable.