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What to put down before laying concrete?

Sasquatch912

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I am putting concrete down in a 30x30 area. It will have fiber in it.

I hear people use rebar, etc.

what is best to use and how much of it?
 
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In my area, you can put in #4 rebar spaced in an 18 inch grid, or use remesh which is the heavy wire fence panels. Best thing to do is to consult your building department because I've done slabs before with just the fiber too.
 

ard

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"building department"? Last people Id ask about how to build a quality home....

I am sure far more experienced voices will chime in, but I like rebar in slabs. #4 on 18" is fine, assuming nothing odd about your situation.

One thing- what is this for? What will you be doing on the surface of the slab? Will it be a garage? do you want to tile it? epoxy it? densify and polish? just seal? Pay attention to where you put joints and how they will look in the finished floor....

my 2 cents
 

James-W

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I have rebar and fiber in my garage concrete floor, works very well.

Is this going to be a garage? If it is going to be a garage and you are planning on heating the garage with in-floor heat, you would want to have some insulation put down before pouring the concrete.
 
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machsnell

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Northern Virginia
Micro fiber not the larger fiber 8f you care about finish and seeing hairs in it.

I did microfiber and #4 bar 18 inch in center.

I put 3 inch rigid 60 PSI insulation under and I did regular 6 mil plastic under also.

2 inch insulation is fine I had 2000 sf leftover from a job.

No sweat from slab no cold from slab and the insulation and plastic reduce the friction on the underside of the slab so it won't have a tendency to Crack as it moves and hydrates.

I have 1600 sf 5 inch slab of 4000 PSI mix. I did low(er) slump and kept slab wet for a week to build strength.
I only cut one joint in it 3 years ago and don't have any cracks yet. ACI and every job I have ever done tells me not to do that but I rolled the dice and prepped the hell out of my subgrade.

For your question if you can find budget

Good solid subgrade, WELL compacted stone base min 4 inches, 2 inch rigid insulation, 6 mil plastic (taped best but a foot or two overlap fine), microfiber, and rebar at least 2 foot on center 18" better and a 4000 PSI mix. Lowest slump crew can handle. 2 to 3 inch slump

Insulation up the edges of the slab desireable also this is where most radiant cold comes from.

And last but not least a good finish crew to place. Don't "bless" the surface with a bunch of water, it thins and weakens the surface "cream".



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Sasquatch912

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its gonna be my garage shop. Ill have no lift in it. Ill be pulling trucks in, tractors, and implements
 

Jazz1

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Thunder Bay On.
SET YOUR BEER DOWN! I saw a garage floor that was all wavy,,just a friggin' mess. I asked what the deal was and new owner told me previous owner was more interested in swilling beer with his homies so the truck driver poured all cement and departed. By the time owner got off his *** it was too late to rake.The cement had set! I must get pics next time I go to the border.
 
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EdT

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North Georgia
+1 on the compacted comment above. Compacted means compacted, not just drive over it a couple of times with a dozer or a bob cat. Plate compactor or the old manual kind if you're feeling tough (or want to). AFA the fiber goes, when my shop floor developed cracks, along with the standard "I guarantee that it will harden and I guarantee that it will crack." the guy from the concrete place told me that the fiber they use only helps a bit when the slab is curing and doesn't add much long term strength. Could be BS, but it would be worth knowing. Put wire or rebar in it and be sure it's positioned correctly within the concrete mass. It should be put on "chairs" which are designed to keep it near the middle of the pour IIR. Of course the guys slogging around leveling stuff knock them all over after they're covered with crete so you never know what you have.
 

ard

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I know...

I dont think it will work. Spaces too small in chain link, will interfere with the concrete pour- plus it doesnt have strength in both directions.

#4 rebar for 30x30 18" on center you need 30 pieces 20 feet long, maybe 34 pieces for overlap and what not. At my home depot its $4.65 each. So a whopping $170 with tax. Toss in a bucket of these to keep the rebar at the right height: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Grip-Rite-2-in-PROLOK-Rebar-and-Mesh-Chair-GRPROLK42B/204768994. A roll of wire to tie the rebar....

You might be at $200 or so.
 
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Sasquatch912

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Nov 2, 2016
Messages
362
Location
Georgia
I know...

I dont think it will work. Spaces too small in chain link, will interfere with the concrete pour- plus it doesnt have strength in both directions.

#4 rebar for 30x30 18" on center you need 30 pieces 20 feet long, maybe 34 pieces for overlap and what not. At my home depot its $4.65 each. So a whopping $170 with tax. Toss in a bucket of these to keep the rebar at the right height: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Grip-Rite-2-in-PROLOK-Rebar-and-Mesh-Chair-GRPROLK42B/204768994. A roll of wire to tie the rebar....

You might be at $200 or so.

dont have a home depot near me. have a lowes.

they only have 10ft rebar from what i see.

what about this?

https://m.lowes.com/pd/Steel-Remesh-Common-5-ft-x-150-ft-Actual-4-9166-ft-x-148-5-ft/3010018
 
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