what to put on my floor?

[1BADLS1tuner]

Hey guys i need help deciding what to do with my floor...

I was gonna leave it unfinished (just power troweled) but i have seen some epoxy coated floors and they look very nice.

What would you guys reccomend? I am on a very tight budget right now so price is pretty important factor.

I would just like to do it while the garage is still empty...

 

[dcs Inc]

Well the "tight budget" comment kinda throws everybody off. gene ec-Indy

 

[JimVonBaden]

VCT is how I am going. For 400 sq ft I expect it to cost less than $1 a foot.

Jim

 

[munkey]

One consideration might be whether you are counting your time as part of the "budget" or not. If you are talking about hiring somebody, the labor is probably going to equal or exceed the materials cost.

You also have to consider what supplies you might have to buy: spiked shoes, gloves, rags, drill mixers, squeegees/rollers, acid and safety/spraying equipment (if you're etching), grinding tools purchase/rental (if grinding), dropcloths, plastic buckets, masking tape... these types things can add up quickly if you don't already own them.

 

[1BADLS1tuner]

you guys are right! I dont think it would be possible to do a quality floor covering for cheap.......

I think i better save my pennies!

 

[76 warlock]

Okay, this will be your cheapest per square foot price yet one of your more durable systems.

step 1- clean degrease your floor then let it dry.
step 2-(this step is optional) apply a acetone dyestain.
step 3-apply a liquid hardener densifier and keep wet for 20 mins then allow it to dry for at least 20mins following that.
step 4-apply 2 coats of Lithium sealer and burnish.

these are the same steps as polishing concrete just no grinder. as long as the concrete you are starting with will quickly absorb a dime size water droplet then this system will work great. the dyestain is for decoration only. the hardener/densifier will strengthen the concrete. The Lithium sealer is also another form of densifier so when the two are combined will strengthen the concrete approx 3000 psi. Burnishing will pull a shine and help with dust and cleanability. this is not a topical coating system therefore no peeling, flaking, or welding spatter burn through. annual maintenance should be a coat of sealer and a good burnishing if you heavily use the floor. NOTE: if you choose to coat with a different system in the future then you will have to grind the floor. not sure how well an epoxy would adhere.
I'll let you know I sell paint for a living yet I'm not going to say for who. However I will say that H&C is the brand I'm more familiar with(not who I work for) however I'm certain there are many others to choose from more local to you. I would check with your local concrete supplier. I also just recommended this system to a 10,000 sq ft shop that refurbishes fire engines that weight approx 75,000 lbs. epoxy system for them was between $12,000 and $15,000. this system is at most $2,500 and as little as $700. the reason for the variance is these products have very high sq ft rates(like 1000 ft sq-3000 ft sq for the sealer per gallon)

 

[1BADLS1tuner]

Okay, this will be your cheapest per square foot price yet one of your more durable systems.

step 1- clean degrease your floor then let it dry.
step 2-(this step is optional) apply a acetone dyestain.
step 3-apply a liquid hardener densifier and keep wet for 20 mins then allow it to dry for at least 20mins following that.
step 4-apply 2 coats of Lithium sealer and burnish.

these are the same steps as polishing concrete just no grinder. as long as the concrete you are starting with will quickly absorb a dime size water droplet then this system will work great. the dyestain is for decoration only. the hardener/densifier will strengthen the concrete. The Lithium sealer is also another form of densifier so when the two are combined will strengthen the concrete approx 3000 psi. Burnishing will pull a shine and help with dust and cleanability. this is not a topical coating system therefore no peeling, flaking, or welding spatter burn through. annual maintenance should be a coat of sealer and a good burnishing if you heavily use the floor. NOTE: if you choose to coat with a different system in the future then you will have to grind the floor. not sure how well an epoxy would adhere.
I'll let you know I sell paint for a living yet I'm not going to say for who. However I will say that H&C is the brand I'm more familiar with(not who I work for) however I'm certain there are many others to choose from more local to you. I would check with your local concrete supplier. I also just recommended this system to a 10,000 sq ft shop that refurbishes fire engines that weight approx 75,000 lbs. epoxy system for them was between $12,000 and $15,000. this system is at most $2,500 and as little as $700. the reason for the variance is these products have very high sq ft rates(like 1000 ft sq-3000 ft sq for the sealer per gallon)

HOLY ****! looking at "professionals" work on youtube with polished floors idk why anyone would want to go with an epoxy floor! The dyed and polished floors look amazing!

How hard would it be to dye and polish a 1500sq ft floor by myself? what brand products would you use (can you be specific)?

Thanks!

 

[dcs Inc]

Ha, Ask a polish guy what he thinks of this application. It stains easy compared to a tightly polished slab. Doesn't last any time at all compared to a "real" polished floor.

Saying that, this is a better system than doing nothing and leaving the slab open but you might as well go with a high solids acrylic sealer. More stain resistant.

By the way, this isn't a polished floor system. Go to the concrete Polishing Associations website and learn about polishing.
http://www.concretepolishingassociation.com/index.php

 

[76 warlock]

Ha, Ask a polish guy what he thinks of this application. It stains easy compared to a tightly polished slab. Doesn't last any time at all compared to a "real" polished floor.

Saying that, this is a better system than doing nothing and leaving the slab open but you might as well go with a high solids acrylic sealer. More stain resistant.

By the way, this isn't a polished floor system. Go to the concrete Polishing Associations website and learn about polishing.
http://www.concretepolishingassociation.com/index.php

Never said this is a polished system. It is not as durable as polished nor does it cost the same in materials or labor(labor being a big factor).it does stain easier than polished concrete, but never in my post did I say in any shape form or fashion that this was better, equal to, or a substitute for polished concrete, read my post. What I did say was that this system is using the same materials as polished concrete with out the grinder. Now this system IS more stain resistant than a high solids acrylic sealer solvent or waterborne(unless you get a product that you have to be certified by the manufacturer to install, but then this wouldn't have a low cost either). According to real world feedback from customers(not what the manufacturer says it will do) this is decent system in our area. About 90% of my customers do not like a topical systems unless it is extremely high end and they are certified by the manufacturer to install. As far as not a long term system I believe I said in that post it would require annual maintenance, whereas polished in virtually maintenance free. Now performance with this system will be dependent upon several factors of your concrete ex: hardness, porosity. Keep in mind I'm just giving an alternative system. You can use it or don't purely personal choice.

 

[76 warlock]

HOLY ****! looking at "professionals" work on youtube with polished floors idk why anyone would want to go with an epoxy floor! The dyed and polished floors look amazing!

How hard would it be to dye and polish a 1500sq ft floor by myself? what brand products would you use (can you be specific)?

Thanks!

Polished concrete normally is very expensive. Unless you have experience with it leave it to a pro. The tooling for the grinder is a large part of the cost. Example: Lets say you rent a grinder depending on your market say $250/day. You could easily spend $2,000+ in stones and diamonds to get the job done. Were a pro normally has stock and can test different grits you would have to test and BUY different grits and depending on the unit could run up to $300 per set. Also concrete polishing is an art. When done correctly is absolutely beautiful, however when done poorly looks like a nightmare. Before you attempt this talk to your local concrete suppliers and concrete polishers and get quotes. Market values vary.

 

[1BADLS1tuner]

Hanks

Polished concrete normally is very expensive. Unless you have experience with it leave it to a pro. The tooling for the grinder is a large part of the cost. Example: Lets say you rent a grinder depending on your market say $250/day. You could easily spend $2,000+ in stones and diamonds to get the job done. Were a pro normally has stock and can test different grits you would have to test and BUY different grits and depending on the unit could run up to $300 per set. Also concrete polishing is an art. When done correctly is absolutely beautiful, however when done poorly looks like a nightmare. Before you attempt this talk to your local concrete suppliers and concrete polishers and get quotes. Market values vary.

I didn't mean to start an issue guys.....

Thanks for the info and advice!

 

[dcs Inc]

warlock, I was pointing this at the reply to your post.... should of stated that. I didn't want people to think of your suggestion as a polished floor.
I purchased a grinder/polisher for prep work and have done a couple of polished floors with it. I have to say it's a PIA. The learning process is huge. Each slab is different and if you don't know much about it you wind up burning off your tooling quickly. I have a little 18" long metal tool box full of tooling that has over $12,000.00 of diamonds in it. That's just to pull it up to an 800 grit. Guys will take it to a 3000 grit sometimes. Hard concrete takes soft bonds, soft concrete take hard bonds, sheeesh. I have some tooling that costs $375.00 a piece. My machine is only 900 lbs. and takes 6 of these. Anyway....

Several years ago the "in" thing to do was get into polishing. The market was flooded and every vendor at the World of Concrete was selling machines. Now these machines are way pricey. This sent the sq. ft. pricing of a polished floor way down as everybody was offering it. Cheaper ways to achieve a "polished look" came out. Thus my reply.

Check out the polishing prices. If your area has several guys digging away at making a living at it, you may get a decent price on it. Just be aware of short cuts. Even a lower gloss rating of say 400 or 800 grit will take 6 to 8 passes with different tooling not including coloring and densifier. gene ec-Indy

 

[76 warlock]

warlock, I was pointing this at the reply to your post.... should of stated that. I didn't want people to think of your suggestion as a polished floor.
I purchased a grinder/polisher for prep work and have done a couple of polished floors with it. I have to say it's a PIA. The learning process is huge. Each slab is different and if you don't know much about it you wind up burning off your tooling quickly. I have a little 18" long metal tool box full of tooling that has over $12,000.00 of diamonds in it. That's just to pull it up to an 800 grit. Guys will take it to a 3000 grit sometimes. Hard concrete takes soft bonds, soft concrete take hard bonds, sheeesh. I have some tooling that costs $375.00 a piece. My machine is only 900 lbs. and takes 6 of these. Anyway....

Several years ago the "in" thing to do was get into polishing. The market was flooded and every vendor at the World of Concrete was selling machines. Now these machines are way pricey. This sent the sq. ft. pricing of a polished floor way down as everybody was offering it. Cheaper ways to achieve a "polished look" came out. Thus my reply.

Check out the polishing prices. If your area has several guys digging away at making a living at it, you may get a decent price on it. Just be aware of short cuts. Even a lower gloss rating of say 400 or 800 grit will take 6 to 8 passes with different tooling not including coloring and densifier. gene ec-Indy

My misunderstanding didn't mean to bite your head off

 

[GaryRoushkolb]

Is it a shop or a showroom?

 

[Steves32]

Is it a shop or a showroom?

Exactly!
If you are just parking in it- then go w/ a nice floor. If you plan to do any work- Welding, grinding, cutting- I'd stick to concrete.
I drop stuff. Even though I'm careful, a 1/2" impact bouncing off concrete will leave a mark. I also drop bolts, nuts & washers. It's hard enough for me to find them on bare concrete.