What to use for a ceiling on 2*4 truss

[Earlsfat]

Background:

Just bought a house that has a 3 car garage that I'm just itching to get squared away.

Plan is to use two to four 4' 4 bulb fluoresent troffers in the ceiling joists (space issue) and to use Veno's CFL lights in the corners between the ceilings and walls mounted at a 45* angle - I guess with cages around them because I am the kind of idiot to break them no matter where they are mounted.

For the sides - I am thinking of going with t111 up to 4' and peg board to the ceiling (8.5' from floor) with a 1*4 or 1*6 shelf separating the two all the way around. For the front wall I am planning on doing a workbench on the 2 car side, and the 1 car side will have the sink, rolling toolbox..... and beer fridge.

Was probably going to do either epoxy or the heavily tile, but can't find the tile any place so it's looking like epoxy wins by default.

PROBLEM:
The roof / ceiling are 2*4 truss 2' on center, prior owner has two 1/2" ply screwed down for extra storage with a cleat or two nailed at the sides and front wall for extra support. I want to "finish" the ceiling so the lights have a better reflecting surface and just so it looks nicer, but I am not sure how much more weight it can support - Do I go with 1/2" osb, luan, sheetrock, pegboard? Take down the ply p.o. installed (but then I lose some storage space)?

Can post pics of the space... just need to get home first.

 

[pattenp]

2X4 truss on 2" centers will support a drywall ceiling or osb. It's not really designed to have any overhead storage but the plywood that's up there should be okay. Just don't put anything put there of any significant weight. If you do drywall on the ceiling and have any weight up there and are taking down and putting stuff up the drywall seams will crack and start to show.

 

[Earlsfat]

Could I say... sister the joists with 2*6 or 3/4" ply to get something that would be able to handle a moderate load? (I know, probably a question for an architect).

 

[pattenp]

2x6 sister joist will definitely help with the load capacity but I can't say how much.

 

[JakeKohl]

Could I say... sister the joists with 2*6 or 3/4" ply to get something that would be able to handle a moderate load? (I know, probably a question for an architect).

That would help - but what is the span of those trusses? Can you get a continuous length 2x6 in that size?

 

[Earlsfat]

Probably not one piece, but I have people telling me the joining plates are just as good as one solid piece of wood (sounds like bs to me).

I have to measure it, but guessing 30' or so. I was thinking of running an I-beam or tripled up 2*12's down the middle of the garage to suppport the trusses in the middle, but I would need a support right smack in the middle of one of the door openings.

I'll post pictures in a bit.





I can't stand builders who waste space like this.

 

[Earlsfat]

Pics:

This is what I'm working with:


Shot of the trusses and ply for storage... and total garbage lighting - might as well be using birthday candles:


Shot of the hillbilly attempt to insulate the house:


Shot of "sistered" trusses where he put the plywood for storage:


Another shot:


Another shot of sistered trusses / shelves (coming down for the work bench):

 

[Earlsfat]

I probably should just toss most of the stuff being stored up there and drywall it and be done.

 

[Nowater]

Run your power, cable, air, and plumbing lines before you insulate and cover the walls or ceiling. Forget about the attic storage IMHO, or create joists that span across to store the desired load-this will be a lot of work and expense for what you get.
OSB for a ceiling would allow small loads like work lights etc. to be placed any where.

In my shop, I ran OSB up the walls before placing my pegboard on 1 x 2 spacers. I wish I had cut 3/4 by 3/4 inch small spacers to run in between the hole pattern, so that the pegboard does not bow in due to heavy loads. I run a 1 x3 along the top of where I wanted the pegboard first, with a 1/4 " groove to allow the pegboard to sit flush once it was screwed to that board. Also, I ripped the top of those boards at 45 degrees to allow the use of them as the backs of French cleats. Now, I can place cabinets anywhere I want.

My pegboard was placed horizontally, so for the bottom edge I grooved out another board to support the bottom of the pegboard. Since the top and bottom boards are visible, they got a contrasting paint color. Sorry, no pix, I'm not ready to do a build thread yet, but I hope I explained my idea for your consideration.

 

[Earlsfat]

Thanks for that... I'm with you all the way except for the French Cleats and cabinets.... I don't get that part, but it's just me being dense.

Still trying to figure out what to do for an air line, was thinking of just doing a hookup for my compressor (single stage craftsman... it's ok for what I use it for, but would like a dual stage) and 4 connection points, one on each side of the garage opening by the doors, one by my work bench and one in the ceiling in the middle of the garage. I'm leaning towards going with the black iron / steel pipe, but have not even started to figure out cost. Rapid Air has a system for $180 that might get me where I want to go - not sure how well that sytem works and how it compares price-wise.