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What to use on walls?

Bradbilt

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Mar 8, 2018
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Gilbert PA
The time has come to do the inside of the building.
I was thinking Tin the whole time just like the outside. But now I’m not so sure.

My walls are studded 2’ on center
I have poured concrete walls that extend 20” above floor level.
16’ total height


Is 5/8 Sheetrock a viable option?
I was thinking plywood on the bottom 4’
And Sheetrock the rest of the way up


Thoughts, concerns, etc
 
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Lucid Moments

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Gainesville, Ga
I did 1/2" OSB all the way from the floor to the 14' eaves. I like being able to nail or screw into it securely anywhere I want to hang or secure stuff, and I don't like how relatively fragile sheetrock is.
 
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Bradbilt

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Gilbert PA
I do plan to insulate(2" spray foam)

OSB just looks so bad. I know its cheap but dont think its for me
I would much rather use plywood in the work shop area and sheetrock above it, even if it costs more. I never plan on cluttering up the walls in the shop itself, but maybe in the tool area
 

bugnut

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Central Ohio
When I posted a similiar question and mentioned welding/grinding in the shop 5/8 fire rated drywall was the overwhelming response. That is what I had installed.
 

Bert_

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Plywood or OSB looks much better than sheetrock once the sheetrock gets a few dings and dents.

Honestly before this forum the only sheetrocked garages I had seen where in high end homes that were for parking only. Seen a few after 30 years and they always look like ****.
 

CraigStu

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Blacksburg, Va
I do plan to insulate(2" spray foam)

OSB just looks so bad. I know its cheap but dont think its for me
I would much rather use plywood in the work shop area and sheetrock above it, even if it costs more. I never plan on cluttering up the walls in the shop itself, but maybe in the tool area
I am not an OSB fan either. I get the 'you can screw into anywhere' which would sometimes be nice. And your 2' vs 16" stud spacing will make it a little harder if you want to hang a cabinet. But I have always been able to work out a hanging solution using some 1x4s screwed on horizontally to catch the studs. I think your idea of plywood and sheet rock will work fine. Install the plywood horizontally so it's 48" plus your 20" wall gets you up to 68" of coverage. I would try to make the plywood and the sheet rock the same thickness.
 

kabover

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on property at home
I built about 30 years ago. I put 1/2" plywood 4' up and then covered the rest of the way up with 1/4" pegboard. Painted the whole mess white. Works good and still looks pretty good.

john f
 
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Bradbilt

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Well my garage is going to heated and more than likely air conditioned.


I guess I should of mentioned this in the 1st post. The total building sq/ft is 4840.
It is NOT going to be some sort of " man cave". It is going to be a full blown shop. I restore trucks as a hobby and also do metal work.

One bay(40x16) is a spray booth/wash bay and I plan on tin walls for light reflectiveness and the ability to get wet. Completely sectioned off with a wall, and sealed door

The "shop" is 40x36 that will have a lift bay and "dead" bay for driving in vehicles. There is with an additional 1300 sq/ft area that will only have 8' ceilings for the work benches, tool does, sandblast cabinet, bolt bins, drill press etc.

Above the 1300 sq/ft area will be a non-heated mezzanine for part storage.

Then there is 40x36 storage area (sectioned off again with wall and sealed door)to park trucks and larger parts on Home depot pallet racking.


I am really thinking the 1300 under the mezzanine to do all plywood so I can hang shelving or other things on the walls.
 

Bert_

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Drywall is apparently common because Garages have turned into Shops which are now Heated and Cooled. (my guess?)

A conditioned garage used only for parking or hanging out with buddy's. Sure I might drywall that.

A shop that actually gets used. I can't imaging the drywall looking very nice after 5-10 years. Can't clean it, dents easy...
 

830singleshot

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Jan 14, 2018
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I have 1 suggestion for you. While the cavity is open, take a marker and put a short mark on your concrete stub marking the center of every stud. It will take you 5 minutes. You can thank me later!
 

MAYOR28

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Plywood & some metal for me :beer:

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u2slow

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I went 1/2" plywood. I can fasten most things anywhere. I don't like how poorly OSB holds screws or nails. The concrete stem wall comes up about 14" from the floor.

It will literally be years before my interior is done to a level where I can heat the space, so I felt plywood and roxul could put up with PNW humidity well enough until then.
 
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Bolson32

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Lake Elmo, MN
Have you thought about prefinished metal panels? The ones menards sells are really quite affordable and by the time you take into account the time to paint plywood I think you'd be close on price. That's what I'm going with on my addition I think. I've been down the osb route and while I did like it and think it looked great painted. It was a pain in the *** to paint.

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glider

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Flint Michigan
Mix it up and put your name on it. Metal and OSB are reasonably priced products. The 4x10’ T1-11 siding was not.
 

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myredracer

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Langley, BC
I'm an OSB hater. It's heavy to work with, the splinters are awful and it smells awful. Otherwise, once it's painted, your shop full of stuff and dusty from working in it, you won't really notice after a while.

I used 1/2" sanded good one side plywood sideways to 4' up then drywall to the ceiling. But I only did that on one wall that was likely to get things leaning against it or touching it that could damage it. The other walls either have continuous shelving or free-standing equipment or bench up against it. I have one outside corner and used a checker plate outside corner guard 4' tall.

If the garage/shop is against a residence, then fire rating will be a question and you may be required to use drywall.

BTW, 5/8" drywall is heavy and harder to lift up, especially if using long sheets. Consider using 1/2" CD drywall. It's more rigid, denser and is a good choice for studs 24" OC.
 

mikec35

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I used 3/8 sanded plywood I bought at a discount lumber place. Primed with oil base Kilz and painted with bright white paint.



 
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Bradbilt

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Gilbert PA
That looks Great. But I have 16' walls and 1500sq/ft to cover. Not sur I could justify the cost

I used 3/8 sanded plywood I bought at a discount lumber place. Primed with oil base Kilz and painted with bright white paint.

]
 

Jackfre

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N CA
While I used 5/8 rock on the ceiling I did plywood on the 10' walls and am happy I did. The 10' sheets were pricey so I used 8's and a 1x4 band at the 8'level. I covered a one plywood wall and of the adjoining with 4x8 gala sheet metal. The advantage of the plywood set vertically is I can, in a short time and with minimum hassle, gain access into the walls. In 5 yrs I've only done it twice, but I am going in again soon for a wiring addition for the solar system I am installing. Once the mods are done I can button it right back up with a minimum of fuss.
 

glider

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So the ceiling and wall are T1-11?

The ceiling and walls are metal. No uv protection in the paint, used indoors. Blue stripe is 3 coats of Behr paint on OSB. The room on the right is 4x10’ T1-11. Nice stuff but you pay for it. Composite decking for base molding all the way around.
 

ard

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Sierra Foothills... California
Consider drywall all the way, to create an airtight wall. Then ADD plywood or OSB or tongue and groove or metal or whatever ,,,overtop, as a type of wainscoating. Added cost of Sheetrock is minimal. You just need to tape and seal the lower parts, not a ‘paint perfect’ finish.

It also gives you more latitude around doors, openings, etc. If you don’t get the wood ‘all the way to the very edge’ you still have a good looking finished wall.
 

Innovate1

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Illinois near St. Louis, Missouri
Wife is set on T1-11 for the inside walls and she will be using it some and lets me do what I want with other aspects so that's ok. But putting it vertically is the weaker direction. It seems 1/2" isn't common - mostly see 3/8 or 5/8 for sale ($24 and $30 a sheet). 16" studs but for hanging stuff 5/8 seems like the way to go, especially since it's vertical. Otherwise I need to make sure all hanging fasteners hit a stud (still a good idea for heavy stuff). Still mulling the ceiling - metal or ??
 

MAYOR28

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Looks great! How high up is the metal? How about the outlets?

The metal is about 40" tall, which puts it above most equipment/boxes. That makes my outlets accessible over top of my toolbox and various file cabinets.



I like how you used 1x6or what ever it is) as a border

Strips ripped from the 1/2 plywood. Same for the trim at the top of the walls and corner molding. So much ripping......

..
 
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yeldogt

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The ceiling and walls are metal. No uv protection in the paint, used indoors. Blue stripe is 3 coats of Behr paint on OSB. The room on the right is 4x10’ T1-11. Nice stuff but you pay for it. Composite decking for base molding all the way around.

Thanks -- I have been thinking of metal to dress up the cathedral ceiling of the old shop side of my studio. Have never used it .. so you can buy it with different paint?
 
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