What tool do I need? - Pipe wrench or Adjustable Wrench

[WOPR]

I have to remove and troubleshoot a diesel fuel transfer pump for work. This will involve removing the pump. I'm curious what type of wrench is most appropriate for this application.

The pump has a 3" (give or take) nut at the base, holding it to the tank. What is the right choice: a pipe wrench or an adjustable wrench? Or maybe is there a 3rd tool I'm not thinking of?

I'm asking because I have to go purchase tools for this project. We do not keep anything this large on hand. (and no, purchasing both on the company's dime is not an option, lol)

Thanks in advance!

 

[lutter94]

Pipe Wrench.

 

[davesnothere]

Plier wrench.

 

[G_P]

I try not to use pipe wrenches on anything with flats or a hex on it but for something this large If you dont have an adjustable on hand I would get a pipe wrench since it could also be used for many other jobs.

Depending on how tight it is screwed in there a large pair of Channel Locks might work as well.

 

[AlD]

There is one the other guys haven't mentioned, which I think would be a whole lot better: a large adjustable spud wrench. Not the ironworker type, but the type that looks like an old Ford wrench, that has a wide opening and smooth jaws. A pipe wrench would screw up the nut, since it has moving steel jaws, Channelocks would do the same thing (unless you found a smooth-jawed set), plus you won't get a strong grip with them. And with a spud wrench you can use a cheater, if necessary. Ridgid makes them, and you can often find old ones at yard sales. Hope this helps!
Al

 

[Wakefield]

If you are lucky maybe it isn't very tight and the diesel oil has kept it from corroding.

 

[cp8737]

id go for an adjustable

 

[DekeT]

I have to remove and troubleshoot a diesel fuel transfer pump for work. This will involve removing the pump. I'm curious what type of wrench is most appropriate for this application.

The pump has a 3" (give or take) nut at the base, holding it to the tank. What is the right choice: a pipe wrench or an adjustable wrench? Or maybe is there a 3rd tool I'm not thinking of?

I'm asking because I have to go purchase tools for this project. We do not keep anything this large on hand. (and no, purchasing both on the company's dime is not an option, lol)

Thanks in advance!

I have to ask what kind of outfit does not have the tools, trucks, equipment to perform this maintenance? And how is it that you are doing mechanical work and troubleshooting and don't know what tools you will need? I don't get it.

 

[sberry]

I am tempted to agree with that but first I would grab on to the unit and see if it turned. Second doubt anyone cares if a wrench leaves a mark, 3rd, maybe it doesn't even need to come out? If its running and not pumping odds are a clogged pump screen.

 

[Outlawmws]

As suggested, try just twisting on the pump housing by hand. If it won't come out, then an adjustable of some form (Crescent, spanner, whatever) since you have the flats.

3" is HUGE, so not sure a Crescent can be had that large.

 

[plumber84]

an auto or monkey type wrench, the diamond brand ones turn up on ebay quite regularly i got a 15" one about 2 years ago and it opens to about 4".

 

[msnow]

an auto or monkey type wrench, the diamond brand ones turn up on ebay quite regularly i got a 15" one about 2 years ago and it opens to about 4".

What he said here is a link

http://www.mcmaster.com/#adjustable-pipe-wrenches/=fjorf4

McMaster calls them Wide Opening Pipe wrenches, I bet the 15 would do the ticket if it s a 3" nut

Here is another link for MSC so you can see exactly what you need

http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/NNSRI...re=ItemDetail-_-ResultListing-_-SearchResults

 

[WOPR]

What he said here is a link

http://www.mcmaster.com/#adjustable-pipe-wrenches/=fjorf4

McMaster calls them Wide Opening Pipe wrenches, I bet the 15 would do the ticket if it s a 3" nut

Here is another link for MSC so you can see exactly what you need

http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/NNSRI...re=ItemDetail-_-ResultListing-_-SearchResults

Yeah, I would have loved to snag those if they were available locally. They probably carry them at Grainger, but tbh, I'm expected to fix things as cheaply as possible, and those cost more than 2x what I picked up.

..If you dont have an adjustable on hand I would get a pipe wrench since it could also be used for many other jobs..

This was my train of thought too as I purchased a pipe wrench today. It may not be "perfect" for this job, but I believe it'll handle it without too much issue.

To those curious about what I'm doing: the flow rate has dropped significantly on this pump recently, so I will be switching out the filter to see if that helps, but I believe we have a leak in the suction line, which means the pump will have to come out. Tbh, even the pump itself is probably not sealed well, I can see sealant missing in places, so I'll just freshen it up anyways.

Thanks for all the suggestions guys!

 

[Junkman]

Check and replace the filter first...
You are not going to find much when you pull the pump from the tank. The only thing that is there is a 1" pipe that goes up to the pump, and I have to assume that that pipe was properly tightened when the pump was installed. It is usually 3" off the bottom of the tank, and if it has loosened up, it will have fallen off, so there would be no flow at all. The pump can be serviced from the top, but by the time you take it apart, and if you have no experience with these pumps, you will be wasting more time (i.e. money) than a replacement pump costs. Grainger sells them quite inexpensively. One of the things to check before you do anything concerning the pump itself is to check the electrical connections. If they are corroded, or in poor condition, that is the problem. The next thing would be the brushes. If the pump has seen lots of use, the motor itself could be tired. The last thing to consider, is that service parts are usually not commonly stocked so you will need to order them from the manufacturer. Those pumps are just not worth fixing. Finally, I haven't seen very many that were installed so tightly that you couldn't get it out by twisting the pump.

This is the part that the suction pipe threads into, and goes into the tank. This is the bushing that you want to remove, but don't need to if only removing the pump assembly.




This is the top side of the bushing.

 

[Bikes&Bowties]

My question here doesnt hold much value to this topic but it will help me understand the point.. What do you usually work on?

 

[msnow]

My question here doesnt hold much value to this topic but it will help me understand the point.. What do you usually work on?

I am going to guess he is in the marine industry? Kind of a fun game to play actually.

 

[camarotoolman]

I don't think a 24" cresent opens to 3". Thats the biggest i know Of. I'm guessing a 24" pipe wrench, maybe a 36"

 

[WOPR]

Check and replace the filter first...
You are not going to find much when you pull the pump from the tank. The only thing that is there is a 1" pipe that goes up to the pump, and I have to assume that that pipe was properly tightened when the pump was installed. It is usually 3" off the bottom of the tank, and if it has loosened up, it will have fallen off, so there would be no flow at all. The pump can be serviced from the top, but by the time you take it apart, and if you have no experience with these pumps, you will be wasting more time (i.e. money) than a replacement pump costs. Grainger sells them quite inexpensively. One of the things to check before you do anything concerning the pump itself is to check the electrical connections. If they are corroded, or in poor condition, that is the problem. The next thing would be the brushes. If the pump has seen lots of use, the motor itself could be tired. The last thing to consider, is that service parts are usually not commonly stocked so you will need to order them from the manufacturer. Those pumps are just not worth fixing. Finally, I haven't seen very many that were installed so tightly that you couldn't get it out by twisting the pump.

This is the part that the suction pipe threads into, and goes into the tank. This is the bushing that you want to remove, but don't need to if only removing the pump assembly.

This is the top side of the bushing.

wow! above and beyond, thanks for the help buddy!

I am going to guess he is in the marine industry? Kind of a fun game to play actually.

haha, I considered answering, but I like your idea, lets keep the mystery alive for now

I don't think a 24" cresent opens to 3". Thats the biggest i know Of. I'm guessing a 24" pipe wrench, maybe a 36"

you are correct sir, the 24" pipe wrench I just picked up opens to 3½"

.

 

[Bikes&Bowties]

Yeah, Florida... I could agree on the marine type field.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

A pipe wrench will not mess the nut up.

 

[Junkman]

It is a fluid handling item, not a machine, so the use of a pipe wrench is correct on this part. If you know how to use a pipe wrench, and properly adjust the jaws, you will not damage the flats of the part... unless the part was made in some part of the world, where quality steel isn't the rule, but the exception.
You know the old expression, "don't force it, get a bigger hammer"... In the truck equipment business, we say "don't fight it, get a bigger pipe wrench". I had pipe wrenches that are so large and heavy that I couldn't handle them any longer, since old age has crept up on me.

 

[sberry]

There is a suction screen on this pump, we see the pic from this side but I bet its on the other side, maybe under a plate with a couple bolts. Clean it, this causes pump to slow down over time. If you have changed final filter doing it again is a waste unless you are pumping gravel,,, and in that case would be back to the suction screen again.

 

[metaldad]

Ridgid makes a smooth jaw pipe wrench.

http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/Hex-Wrench/
they did make those bigger, similar to a 36'', which you may be able to find used

 

[otis66]

On my job and every mechanic job I ever had. The company supplied anything over 1-!/4" or 24mm.

 

[Rogue1987]

On my job and every mechanic job I ever had. The company supplied anything over 1-!/4" or 24mm.

Lucky.

 

[blacK20]

Another vote for pipe wrench. Just because you'll probably have a hard time finding an adjustable that'll have a 3" opening.

 

[redwrench60]

This is fun, I vote he's in the construction business and the transfer tanks for a Bobcat or similar piece of equipment.....oh and I vote pipe wrench!

 

[sberry]

I doubt he even needs a wrench to fix the problem. Well not one that big although a big pair of Channeloks should be in the tool box anyway.