What tool do I use to crimp this?
- Thread starter noid
- Start date
That looks like an old bmw e30 electrical connector.... I've used a set of mini cornwell crimpers for the pins. As for the connector, if I recall properly they are push lock.
On a side note, if you plan on soldering the pins use very little solder. Too much gets in the way rather quickly
On a side note, if you plan on soldering the pins use very little solder. Too much gets in the way rather quickly
I would just use needle nose pliers or similar. You strip just enough to peek out the smaller tabs and push the sheathing right up against. The larger ears you then fold onto the unstripped portion to hold the cable.
You could always buy weatherpack pliers but if this is the only one your doing it'll be a waste.
You could always buy weatherpack pliers but if this is the only one your doing it'll be a waste.
Thats because it is for an e30!
Does this look about right?
Push stripped wire up against line 1 and then use needle nose pliers to push together where I have the arrows drawn? Then push the prongs into the connector until they snap into position?
Does this look about right?
Push stripped wire up against line 1 and then use needle nose pliers to push together where I have the arrows drawn? Then push the prongs into the connector until they snap into position?
MrMark
Well-known member
I am not sure but I would say negative on that. I think where you have your arrows is for the strain relief on the insulation. That you could do with needlenose. The other part is a barrel crimp where you would use a crimp tool. I could be totally wrong too.
Crimp smaller tab to hold copper, crimp larger tab to hold insulation. The exposed copper wire would go down to where my line is drawn though right?
scott0
Well-known member
Should look like this
The jaws are stepped and crimp both spots at the same time. Once the wire is crimped it will slide into the connector and lock in place.
Hope this helps!
The jaws are stepped and crimp both spots at the same time. Once the wire is crimped it will slide into the connector and lock in place.
Hope this helps!
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Should look like this
The jaws are stepped and crimp both spots at the same time.
Hope this helps!
The exposed wire in that picture seems to go much lower then the second set of tabs.
MrMark
Well-known member
That strip may be too long.
What crimps are those? It must be nice to do both at once. Replaceable dies?
What crimps are those? It must be nice to do both at once. Replaceable dies?
scott0
Well-known member
It is just a random picture I found on google, but you are correct. The wire does not need to go past the end of the last crimp.
scott0
Well-known member
http://stores.tayloredsavings.com/-strse-429/SG-Tool-Aid-CRIMPER/Detail.bok
That is the pair I have at work, made by tool aid. They rock!
MrMark
Well-known member
Thanks, looks good.
How many of these types of crimps are you going to make?
I ask, as the prices for suitable crimpers for this connector are all over the place (say anywhere from ~$30 - $350). If you have other types you need to do, then a ratcheting type with interchangeable dies would make better economic sense.
I ask, as the prices for suitable crimpers for this connector are all over the place (say anywhere from ~$30 - $350). If you have other types you need to do, then a ratcheting type with interchangeable dies would make better economic sense.
Those are open barrel connectors. The Sargent 1028CT is all you need.
afazz
Well-known member
Those are AMP/Tyco/Bosch Junior Timer terminals. I use this tool:
http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/cPath/111_112_170/products_id/362
It's not as good as the 'proper' $1,000+ AMP/Tyco SDE tool, and I had to cut a few off and re-crimp, but for $30 it works pretty well.
Check out these crimp validation charts for more info on what a proper crimp should look like, I found them helpful when I was starting out.
http://www.bmotorsports.com/faq/terminal-crimp-validation-charts/
http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/cPath/111_112_170/products_id/362
It's not as good as the 'proper' $1,000+ AMP/Tyco SDE tool, and I had to cut a few off and re-crimp, but for $30 it works pretty well.
Check out these crimp validation charts for more info on what a proper crimp should look like, I found them helpful when I was starting out.
http://www.bmotorsports.com/faq/terminal-crimp-validation-charts/
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Great chart. Every noobie should have one in their electrical tool box.
Yes, I have a separate tool box for electrical work. Holds small cutters, small needle nose, strippers, several different crimpers, some wire, lots of connectors and different sizes of heat shrink. Also 2 or 3 kinds of tape, from the "10 for a $1" HF PVC stuff to the rubberized 3M Scotch splicing tape ($4-$5/roll).
Hint, anyone working on older homes (over 50 years old) should also have some white shrink tubing. How else are you going to fix the neutral wire in boxes when the insulation cracks !
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For a few here and there, they'd work just fine as the insulation and conductor crimps are done separately (offsets between insulation and conductor crimps aren't the same for all open barrels).
If doing a lot of them, a die that does both the insulation and conductor crimp simultaneously would be useful. But the correct die is critical due to the offset.
tkonetzke
Well-known member
I would say a weather pak crimper would work quite well. Im not sure that technically the name but thats what i use mine for so that's what i call it.