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What tool for a lady to remove tight lug nuts?

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dave*99

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Using traditional statics you would apply the weight of the of the beam at the distance of the CG for the torque caused by the beam itself. The weight of the beam depends on the geometry, cross section, and material of the beam.

But of course we all know the length isn’t feasible anyway, but serves to understand the option presented. Ultimately up to the OP which option(s) she prefers.
You forgot the angle of incidence, the applied torque is dependent on the angle of the lever if the weight of the lever is the only applied force.
 
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rust in the eye

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Don't use anti-seize on car lugs, it significantly increases the odds of overtorqing, lugs backing off, and in the case of lug bolts possibly stretching them.
That's just wrong. It does change the friction on the threads so torque technically should be adjusted slightly downward as bolt stretch will be greater at same torque vs. dry. The bolts are supposed to get stretched, just not too much. If the tire store monkeys that dugga, dugga, duugga, duuuga, duuuuga the damn things on don't(often)stretch them past yield you, I, or the lady poster won't either.
Anti-seize or any other lube doesn't promote loosening. Many critical assemblies specify some lubrication on fasteners it prevents galling.
Galled threads are another reason some struggle with wheel bolts.
Beerhippie makes a good point that a little anti-seize goes a long way. If you are using enough to get into your brakes turn in your tools.
 
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rust in the eye

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Not for a noob!

No insult intended, mam, but anti-seize on lug nuts it a precision sort of thing--a tiny bit travels a long ways. If it gets onto your brake disk, it's gonna be bad.

No one else had mentioned, and maybe I shouldn't either, but a good breaker bar is a very good self-defense weapon in a pinch. One small person to another. Just never hesitate--if you feel you need it, use it immediately, and mean to do harm.
I thought that's what Maglites are for?
 

BigGarage

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I'm a petite middle-aged woman and I had a flat tire on my car yesterday afternoon. I know how to change a tire, but I was unable to loosen 3 out of 4 lug nuts. I used a lug wrench (the crossbar type) but I just couldn't get them to budge. I had to find a man to ask, thankfully I was in a parking lot. But had I been on the side of the road, this could've been potentially dangerous.

I'm not sure if I'm just too weak, or if the lug nuts were possibly overtightened. Would a breaker bar be better or should I look at something like these roadside impact wrenches that run off the car's battery via the cigarette socket?

I guess I could get both. I guess the point is that a man removed the remaining lug nuts with the lug wrench, so clearly I was not strong enough. Is a breaker bar gonna help me in this situation? I was trying to use my weight with the lug wrench, and I tried pulling and pushing. I exhausted myself. I asked the man to help and he loosened them like it was nothin'. 😑

I would appreciate advice. This is the second time I've had a flat and was not able to loosen the lug nuts. I don't want to be in this situation again.
all day suckers.png
 

mreisner

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That's just wrong. It does change the friction on the threads so torque technically should be adjusted slightly downward as bolt stretch will be greater at same torque vs. dry. The bolts are supposed to get stretched, just not too much. If the tire store monkeys that dugga, dugga, duugga, duuuga, duuuuga the damn things on don't(often)stretch them past yield you, I, or the lady poster won't either.
Anti-seize or any other lube doesn't promote loosening. Many critical assemblies specify some lubrication on fasteners it prevents galling.
Galled threads are another reason some struggle with wheel bolts.
Beerhippie makes a good point that a little anti-seize goes a long way. If you are using enough to get into your brakes turn in your tools.

Actually it is correct, one of the things dot officers look for is and ICS on truck lugs and studs they can and do put people out of service for having it on there. Well I agree sometimes you need a little lubrication especially on Rusty fittings, anti-seize can lead to more troubles then it's worth
 

Sumboodie

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ne of the things dot officers look for is and ICS on truck lugs and studs they can and do put people out of service for having it on there.

I do DOT annuals and I've never heard such a thing. Not seeing anything online either.

We definitely antisieze ir oil them.
 
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rust in the eye

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Actually it is correct, one of the things dot officers look for is and ICS on truck lugs and studs they can and do put people out of service for having it on there. Well I agree sometimes you need a little lubrication especially on Rusty fittings, anti-seize can lead to more troubles then it's worth
I believe you are misinformed.
The article you posted also has misinformation. The author states that lubricated threads torqued to 85 are then actaully torqued to 95, understood he's using approximate values. This is incorrect as 85 ft lbs is 85 ft lbs regardless of a fastener's condition.
Will a lubricated bolt stretch more than a dry one with the same amount of torque applied? Yes, of course. In the range of wheel bolt applications this is nominal*. Far more overstretching occurs by simple overtightening than using lubricant and proper torque. The author goes to say that it should be applied to the cone of conical lugs nuts. He clearly doesn't understand that there is a great deal of friction there too, perhaps more than at the threads. Applying lubricant there will also increase bolt stretch with same force applied. The conical seating surface is one place I, personally, would never apply it.
I am NO fan of Japanese car's crappy fasteners but I am confident the Subaru incident cited does not result from the use, or even over use of anti-seize paste. I can think of several scenarios that could clean off those threads, none involve an average person with the factory supplied wrenches.
I have broken a wheel stud or two in my time and can assure you that the force needed to do so far exceeds that of any additional amount of stretch these bolts would have seen if properly done up, with or without lubrication.
Anecdotally, I've been doing this for decades. I've yet to have one loosen or overstress a bolt or stud. Additionally my wife(perhaps if held at gunpoint)could remove the lugs on her car because they are properly tightened and won't be fused by rust.

* this is a test I'd like someone do. Fixture up a typical wheel stud/bolt/nut combination and measure stretch at a given torque w & w/o lube.
 
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Beerhippie

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I believe you are misinformed.
The article you posted also has misinformation. The author states that lubricated threads torqued to 85 are then actaully torqued to 95, understood he's using approximate values. This is incorrect as 85 ft lbs is 85 ft lbs regardless of a fastener's condition.
Will a lubricated bolt stretch more than a dry one with the same amount of torque applied? Yes, of course. In the range of wheel bolt applications this is nominal*. Far more overstretching occurs by simple overtightening than using lubricant and proper torque.
I am NO fan of Japanese car's crappy fasteners but I am confident the Subaru incident cited does not result from the use, or even over use of anti-seize paste. I can think of several scenarios that could clean off those threads, none involve an average person with the factory supplied wrenches.
I have broken a wheel stud or two in my time and can assure you that the force needed to do so far exceeds that of any additional amount of stretch these bolts would have seen if properly done up, with or without lubrication.
Anecdotally, I've been doing this for decades. I've yet to have one loosen or overstress a bolt or stud. Additionally my wife(perhaps if held at gunpoint)could remove the lugs on her car because they are properly tightened and won't be fused by rust.

* this is a test I'd like someone do. Fixture up a typical wheel stud/bolt/nut combination and measure stretch at a given torque w & w/o lube.
Agreed that 85 ftlb dry is the same torque as 85 ftlb lubricated, but torque is not the goal! The goal is axial load on the bolt or stud--the clamping force it exerts without exceeding the limits of the bolt/stud. 85 ftlb on a lubricated fastener will yield a MUCH higher axial load than on a dry one, as it's easier to turn the nut.

Here's the first table I hit on the interwebby: https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/torque-lubrication-effects-d_1693.html

That one recommends 50-60% of rated torque for lubricated fasteners. I have LocTite's recommendation for torque values when using anti-seize around here somewhere and it's 70% of rated torque value.

I've been using anti-seize of some sort on lug nuts since I started wrenching on cars (high school) as my father the engineer told me to. The only time I've had any work loose was when I simply forgot to tighten them (oops).
 

rust in the eye

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@ Hippie
I think those values refer to when tightening to maximum. Wheel bolt tightening values are well below the fastener's max, and well within the elastic range. Even Subaru's
If someone is concerned about possible deformation of the bolt simply run the bolt or nut down with your fingers, if its difficualt then further scrutiny is required. Again, I and many others do it all the time without ill effect.
 
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Hooked

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I'm a weak middle aged male and use power tools. Impact wrenches in particular.

A torque multiplier is a cheaper, safer, more compact option especially when most tire shops just tighten the **** out of the wheels and don't torque them to the specification most people can remove.

Example:

RANSOTO Torque Multiplier Set Torque Multiplier Wrench Lug Nut Remover Labor Saving Nut Disassembly Tool with 11/16" 3/4”13/16" 17mm 19mm 21mm Sockets for Loosening Car Tire Lug Nuts https://a.co/d/84An7jt
I ordered this one and it arrived Sunday. Gave it a shot today and although it will 'kinda' work the design needs some improvement. The sleeve which fits over an adjacent nut is too short so in many applications it slips off the nut when pressure is applied. For instance, it worked pretty well on my wife's Sequoia but not on my daughter's Expedition. I also don't think it would work on my truck due to the length of bolt protruding above the nut.
Now that I aware of these I'm gonna search for one with a different design as I think will be a great tool for my daughters to keep in their vehicles.
 

dchawk81

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I ordered this one and it arrived Sunday. Gave it a shot today and although it will 'kinda' work the design needs some improvement. The sleeve which fits over an adjacent nut is too short so in many applications it slips off the nut when pressure is applied. For instance, it worked pretty well on my wife's Sequoia but not on my daughter's Expedition. I also don't think it would work on my truck due to the length of bolt protruding above the nut.
Now that I aware of these I'm gonna search for one with a different design as I think will be a great tool for my daughters to keep in their vehicles.
I should have clarified that I have no experience with that particular one, it was just the first search result when I looked.
 
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