What tool(s) to use to torque a spanner nut ?

[WR250F]

I need to torque a round (no flats at all) spanner nut.

It fits a 27mm thread, looks like a 1/4" thick (inside threaded) washer with spanner cuts in it

Is there such a thing as a spanner wrench that will accept a 1/2" square drive similar to a crows foot ?

I've searched all over, but my search fu is a little fuzzy on this as I don't know exactly what to search for

Thanks for any suggestions or help

Here's a pic of the nut I need to torque. There is a washer on top in this pic, the nut is underneath, you can see the spanner cuts in the nut

View media item 12757

 

[brett09]

Seems like it would be pretty easy to make a crude one if you just need it once or twice.

I searched for a few minutes and couldn't come up with anything either, hope someone else can be more helpful!

 

[Steevo]

Is there a reason that a spanner socket (bearing assembly socket) will not work?

http://www.whittet-higgins.com/part.php?series_id=76

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RH4HKK/?tag=atomicindus08-20

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RH4HKK/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[WR250F]

Spindle sockets for wheel hubs are ginormous compared to the 27mm I need, but that is exactly the style that would work perfectly.

Yamaha offers one that is just the right size, but they want $253 for one socket which I might use twice a year.

 

[87GN]

Coil over shock tool???? Something like this:

http://www.jegs.com/p/QA1/QA1-Coil-Over-Shock-Adjusting-Tools/743897/10002/-1

 

[John Timmins]

I would experiment with slipping a steel pipe ****** over the nut. If a suitable size can be used , gring some tabs on the end to fit in the nut. Screw a steel pipt cap on the other end and weld an old socket on top to sit your torque wrench.

Schedule 80 PVC pipe would also be strong enough to start with.

 

[Stephenw]

You could "one off" a tool with a piece of pipe. Grind away the end of the pipe, leaving behind the needed teeth to fit the fastener. Weld a 3/8" or 1/2" drive to the other end.

Make it like this...

 

[Stephenw]

I like John Timmins idea of using a pipe cap on the end. You could drill a hole in the center and file it into a 3/8" or 1/2" drive with a square or triangle file.

 

[Moose-LandTran]

Spindle sockets for wheel hubs are ginormous compared to the 27mm I need, but that is exactly the style that would work perfectly.

Yamaha offers one that is just the right size, but they want $253 for one socket which I might use twice a year.

What bike is it? There are loads of these sockets on eBay UK.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-R6...62?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item45fddc1cca

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/XJR-1300-...93?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item45fdc1e725

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-R1...20?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3cbd3a6df4

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FZ6-FAZER...96?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item45fdc1e728

 

[WR250F]

It's for 2008 WR250F

 

[Farmrod]

Call your yamaha dealer see how much they would charge to torque the nut if you were to bring it in...I used to do this with my grandpas brute force when the belt needed replacing (tool to remove belt pulley was 90 tool to reinstall was 275) they charged me $10 cash to remove and reinstall the pulley just some food for thought

 

[Alchymist]

You could "one off" a tool with a piece of pipe. Grind away the end of the pipe, leaving behind the needed teeth to fit the fastener. Weld a 3/8" or 1/2" drive to the other end.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=146478&d=1320065991
Make it like this...

^^^THIS^^^, only make it from a cheap 1/2" drive socket.

 

[srmofo]

I made a similar tool out of an old socket. Mine was a little smaller than yours though.

I used the same methods discussed above with a pipe.

 

[Steevo]

What is funny is that when I was in the motorcycle business, we never torqued those steering head bearings. We tapped the nut on with a punch or chisel until it "felt right".

I never knew there was special tool available for it at the time.

 

[omr]

What is funny is that when I was in the motorcycle business, we never torqued those steering head bearings. We tapped the nut on with a punch or chisel until it "felt right".

I never knew there was special tool available for it at the time.

yup that or the tool kit that comes with the bike usually has a spanner wrench that fits it ..

 

[Moose-LandTran]

It's for 2008 WR250F

And this is the head race nut?

 

[Steevo]

yup that or the tool kit that comes with the bike usually has a spanner wrench that fits it ..

Yeah, but that spanner wrench wouldn't fit under the triple clamp, so we'd loosen teh top nut, tap the slotted nut with a skinny punch, and re-tighten the top nut.
Of course, this was in the days when the bearings were loose balls, not today's **** tapered rollers.

 

[WR250F]

And this is the head race nut?

Yep.

Yeah, but that spanner wrench wouldn't fit under the triple clamp, so we'd loosen teh top nut, tap the slotted nut with a skinny punch, and re-tighten the top nut.
Of course, this was in the days when the bearings were loose balls, not today's **** tapered rollers.

There lies the issue.

I've used a punch and tapped or guessed at many a spanner over the years (front wheel bearings etc.), but the tapered rollers can't take lateral stress, either from too much guestimate torque, or too much play. They'll wear prematurely... as in damned fast.

It's takes some doing to lube the lower stem bearing, and you have to take the triple out to do it properly. The lower is a press fit, the upper needs to be torqued to place "proper load" (?) on the bearing.

The Yamaha special order sky high priced tool looks very similar to this, except it has a square hole sized for a 3/8" drive instead of the 8 point :

 

[Provincial]

Buy an "adjustable hook spanner" wrench that fits the nut. Weld a cheap impact (unplated) socket onto the handle at a distance convenient for calculating the torque, like 2" from the center of the nut.

You can even avoid the welding if you drill a hole in the handle at a known distance from the center of the nut and use a spring scale to apply the torque. For instance, 6" and 10 lbs is 60 inch pounds.

 

[bradleykd]

hmm. I have the tool you need in the size you need at work. It's a Japanese tool called a "fine u-nut socket" I've got a set of them. I cant seem to find it on the internet anywhere though....

 

[Toolhorder]

Have you checked with MotionPro? They usually sell tools like that cheaper than the OEM stuff.

EDIT: here ya go, http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0235/

 

[sberry]

How tight does it have to be? Lots of things have torque specs but general feel may be accurate enough?

 

[WR250F]

27 lb/ft is recommended for best bearing life

 

[WR250F]

Have you checked with MotionPro? They usually sell tools like that cheaper than the OEM stuff.

EDIT: here ya go, http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0235/

That just might work

Thank you TH !!

I will definitely check it out.

I would still also like to have a socket version so I don't have to do the math on the torque calc, and, to be the only kid on my block with a socket that is so convenient to use.

 

[ZRX61]

27 lb/ft is recommended for best bearing life

I've always done it by feel, haven't had any steering head bearing problems on 30+ years of doing it that way... I guess they don't teach how to check these days...