What tool to get out this broken spark plug?

[atikovi]

1998 Ford Ranger 4 cylinder with twin plug head. It's the #3 plug right under the intake manifold so barely could even get a socket on it. Probably the original plugs on an over 250,000 mile truck. Suggestions? Leave it be and let the other plug take over?

 

[snyder]

Leaving it in the head really is no longer an option. With the top missing the center core will eventually shoot out. This will be followed by very loud noises.

 

[kwschumm]

Not sure it can be fixed without getting a bunch of debris even if you could get to it easily. I'd pull the head if faced with this problem. It ***** when a seemingly simple job turns into a much bigger problem.

 

[ptschram]

You'll either need to pull the intake or the head as you'll need a straight shot at the bits.

The good part, you have a econd port to attach your shop-vac for sucking out the bits that fall inside.

Once you have access to the plug, there are any of a number of removal tools. In the meantime, start hosing it down with your favorite penetrant.

 

[HORDERofTOOLS]

Can't leave it, can't easily fix it. You would have to drill it out enough to relieve tension on the taper portion, I don't know how to do that without messing up the plug seat in the head.

On the bright side, it's only a 4 cylinder, so not hard to do, plus it probably needs a timing belt. [emoji857]


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[lazer50]

Thats a dual coil ignition system.both plugs are used in Ford's design.to repair correct without more headaches the head will need to come off.imo

 

[atikovi]

I'll take the intake off for more access. Then see if the porcelain will come out. And try a square extractor.

 

[Bobioz1]

Gain access, then square extractor and impact wrench. It'll come out easier than you would think.

 

[Gautama]

That looks like a liberal application of Kroil wouldn't hurt.

 

[finn]

I think I'd try pressurizing the cylinder with air through the undamaged plugs threaded hole tosee if you can blow the broken porcelain out. If you can get the porcelain out, an ez-out will work to remove the metal shell.

cranking it with the other plug installed would be the next try, and running the engine with the other plug installed would be the next escalation.

Removing the head is the last resort.

 

[Al Borland]

Problem with cranking it and hoping the compression stroke kicks it out is that it may get sucked IN on the intake stroke.

 

[alien]

That looks like a liberal application of Kroil wouldn't hurt.

That's where I would start

 

[CNGsaves]

Leave sparkplug in . . .
. . . . yank the tired 4 banger out
. . . . . . insert junkyard v6 or v8 for the RE-POWER !!!!

 

[anndel]

I've never experience this but could you drill it then use some kind of EZ Out extractor? Google it and a bunch came up - OTC, Lisle, etc. plus you tube videos on how to do it.

 

[dalehsc]

I had to do this to a 351Windsor in a country squire wagon. I mig welded a four fluted extractor in the female end of a 12' 1/2 dr extension. An adapter to connect a ratchet(say a 1/2dr allen bit & corresponding socket),a couple of taps with the hammer,and it came out. The only good thing was it had cast iron heads..........I forget, is the ranger head aluminum ?

 

[170-3tree]

While your getting ready to do your work, soak it in pb blaster, diesel fuel, kerosene along with any that you didn't get out yet.

 

[JKady]

Last time I had that happen, we hammered the porcelain down then started and ran the car and repeated till it shot the center out, then used a normal extractor to remove the threads.

 

[colin39]

Last time I had that happen, we hammered the porcelain down then started and ran the car and repeated till it shot the center out, then used a normal extractor to remove the threads.

I did this and used an old torx bit and a small impact 3/8 gun and extracted it with that, whike the engine was still hot

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

If you say the right curse word loud enough, it will magically come out.

 

[Ratchet.]

Used to come across this issue a lot on older euro fords with the old ohc 4 cylinder which had tapered thread plugs and an iron head.

Usual course of action was to smash the ceramic part out (with airline or vacuum handy to try and limit the amount of debris that gets into the cylinder)

Then use a ez-out or hammer a hex/ torx down the center, with plus-gas or similar to help, or some heat if its really stuck

 

[Dirty Diesels]

Used to come across this issue a lot on older euro fords with the old ohc 4 cylinder which had tapered thread plugs and an iron head.

Usual course of action was to smash the ceramic part out (with airline or vacuum handy to try and limit the amount of debris that gets into the cylinder)

Then use a ez-out or hammer a hex/ torx down the center, with plus-gas or similar to help, or some heat if its really stuck

I remember that on Ford Fiestas and KA's being a pain for seized plugs, damned things.

 

[mrjaw14]

1. Safest way is to remove the head and extract it
2. If that's not an option, a spiral extractor, maybe a #5 may work. Since the porcelain is intact you'll need to drill part of the porcelain out. I wouldn't drill all the way through. Use the other plug as a guide and mark your depth on the bit. liberally soak with penetrating oil for a day before you try, then do it with the engine warm. Not hot, but warm. If the plug well is accessible, you may heat the block with a mapp torch to keep it warm. If you really have to get on it, you may put a nick on the plug wall with a small screwdriver to have a mark to reference if you're twisting and you're not sure if the plug is moving or the EZ out is twisting (and about to break!) DO NOT break the EZ Out! That's hardened metal and you'll never drill it out. If in doubt, retire it and use another one.


Edit: The lisle ford 3 valve tool won't work for this. That tool engages the plug threads on the triton engine, whereas in your case the plug is broken above the threads. There's probably a tool for this, but I'm not familiar with one

 

[atikovi]

This is what I'm faced with.

 

[Schurkey]

start hosing it down with your favorite penetrant.

That looks like a liberal application of Kroil wouldn't hurt.

That's where I would start

While your getting ready to do your work, soak it in pb blaster, diesel fuel, kerosene along with any that you didn't get out yet.

This is what I'm faced with.

The photo of the broken plug shows that the tapered seat is still in place. No amount of penetrant will do any good, because it will never get past the gas-tight seal of the taper.

The photo of the broken piece in the head has me wondering about the taper, though. Maybe I'm not seeing it appropriately.

I say pull the head. I'd want to de-rust the head anyway to assure that the replacement plug(s) seal properly. At 250K, valve stem seals and maybe a valve job would be a good idea anyway.

Or drop in a 302. Your choice.

 

[Milton Shaw]

Put air on the other plug to get pressure on the porcelain and then use a long punch to break the insulator and let it blow out with the air pressure. Make sure you are wearing face shield and protective gear for arms/body as those broken up bits are like bullets. Also protect any glass around as those bits could break tempered glass. Then use easy out of several different styles to find the best type.

 

[atikovi]

Put air on the other plug to get pressure on the porcelain and then use a long punch to break the insulator and let it blow out with the air pressure.

Then use easy out of several different styles to find the best type.

Soon as I put air to it, the porcelain flew out. Will get extractor tomorrow. Leaning towards these:
http://knipex-tools.com/fileadmin/s...nnsteig/KNIPEX Screw Extractors Datasheet.pdf

 

[mrjaw14]

that's awesome!

 

[shockwave]

You need the larger spiral extractors like above or spiral set from Irwin after you take punch and break porcelain to remove let soak in penetrate as well it should come out

 

[atikovi]

You need the larger spiral extractors like above or spiral set from Irwin after you take punch and break porcelain to remove let soak in penetrate as well it should come out

That type will just expand the remaining shell and jam in even tighter into the plug hole.

 

[finn]

Just use a small chisel to slightly bend over the metal at the break. The plug shell is thin, so you can grip it with a needle nose pliers and work it out.

Been there and done that.

Glad the air worked. Without the crimp , there's nothing holding the porcelain to the threaded portion of the plug.

The metal threaded portion is really thin, so the needle nose pliers easily fold the threaded shell into itself.

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

If you do mung up the threads, look into a 'back tap' for cleanup. My $100 tool truck one is a $40 Lisle.

 

[shockwave]

That type will just expand the remaining shell and jam in even tighter into the plug hole.

These will be best since they evenly grap also look into a mini torch heat will be your best friend
Heat up sleeve and cool with wax candle

 

[Bobioz1]

Use the square extractor. Make sure the piston is down before you pound it in there. Impact it out. No heat, kroil, or wax required.

 

[MDK22]

Safe way is to remove the head.

Not so safe way. Tape a small funnel over shop vac then tape 1 or mc donalds straws to the funnel. Stick straw in hole. Turn shop vac on. Put automatic center punch on the porclean. Press down with long extension. This should shatter porclean. shop vac should pick up most of the pieces. You can try to use an easy out but you are going to make your life hell because it will probably snap. You need a good extractor aka snap-on SR40k but, you probably dont have that.Because of that I would then take a tap whatever size will cut threads into the shell of metal left of the spark plug. Run a bolt in and then turn it back out working back and forth to slowly extract the threads of the spark plug. Use a very small diameter hose attach to funnel on shop vac and shove down in cylinder and go up and down for about 20 mins. Should get most if not all the porclean pieces out along with center electrode. Check with margnet if you did not get electrode to come out. Disconnect that injector if you can and run with no spark plug in hole. No longer then like 2-3 mins as you may overheat your piston otherwise. install new spark plug reconnect injector and say a prayer.

 

[atikovi]

Got me set of these Rennsteig extractors today

and got it out after 5 or 6 tries.

 

[M6erfan]

Nice! So did you pound or drill the center out?

 

[MDK22]

Congrats. They look like pretty good quality. That makes all the difference in the world.

 

[Olafur]

Good job!

 

[metaldad]

Got me set of these Rennsteig extractors today

those look awesome! i need a set. tooltopia?

 

[atikovi]

Nice! So did you pound or drill the center out?

If you mean the porcelain, it flew out by itself when I put air pressure into the other plug hole.