What tool to tighten this caster?

[JoeMA]

This caster is part of the rolling bin system from Quantum Storage. I have quite a number of these rolling bins and always have trouble tightening the caster to the bin. Turning the nut also turns the bolt, so the bolt has to be held in place.

Two problems: 1) Can not fit a straight shaft driver because the wheel obstructs it (even a stubby right angle screwdriver doesn't get good access), 2) A flat head or phillips doesn't work-- the grooves are curved, similar to some types of security screws.

I've been using a pliers wrench to clamp the bolt head to the wheel frame, race or whatever I can grab (and at risk of damaging the race). There has to be a better way though. Is there a tool for this?

 

[66HertzClone]

Maybe get a hex bit that fits the screw well, have it cut short and then tack welded to a piece of bar stock, you could bend the bar stock as needed to make it easier to use.

 

[Moparman390]

My dad has one of these, lowest profile I know of. Still might be too tall for ya though.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-offs...lerId=Sears&prdNo=34&blockNo=34&blockType=G34

 

[gigamel]

1/4" hex bit held in place with 1/4" box end or bit ratchet

 

[6PTsocket]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7U0/?tag=atomicindus08-20. This might do the job. Harbor Freight sells a similar set with interchangable tips. Chapman is well known for their rt angle low profile sets. You have a lot of choices. I can't see the slot that well but I see the slot coming thru the side of the head. Is it one of those screws that take phillips or flat blade?

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[pendragon1998]

Can you drill a through hole in the bolt and slide in a pin punch or similar to hold it still while turning the nut?

 

[Roju1985]

What you are seeing is not a phillips head screw, it's the mark from the tool used to stake that threaded post in place.

To tighten that type of caster you usually use a large open end wrench on the hex shaped piece shown here:
http://imgur.com/a/3GQNc

 

[gungatim]

I just use a wrench and a pair of pliers on the large flange. it's usually got flat sides on it.

 

[rsanter]

Impact, hit it with the impact a few times and it will tighten up

Bob

 

[ishiboo]

What you are seeing is not a phillips head screw, it's the mark from the tool used to stake that threaded post in place.

To tighten that type of caster you usually use a large open end wrench on the hex shaped piece shown here:
http://imgur.com/a/3GQNc

This

Impact, hit it with the impact a few times and it will tighten up

Bob

And this!

 

[JoeMA]

Thanks all for your suggestions. Always interesting to see how folks approach things differently.

What you are seeing is not a phillips head screw, it's the mark from the tool used to stake that threaded post in place.

To tighten that type of caster you usually use a large open end wrench on the hex shaped piece shown here:
http://imgur.com/a/3GQNc

Correct. Couldn't hold it with a Phillips or flat head even if you could get access.

I've been using a Knipex pliers wrench on the upper race as you and Gungatim suggested. The thickness of the tool makes it difficult to tighten it flush (also have to be careful not to crush the race). But this is the best solution that I found also. It is does not fit a wrench very well as the edge curves down over the bearings.

Impact, hit it with the impact a few times and it will tighten up
Bob

Good suggestion. I'll try it.

BTW, when I called the company, they told me that the casters usually come attached (not sure if this is the case because I ordered several units and none were attached) but he didn't know how they were assembled in the plant.

 

[Jeeper]

I actually rebuild some casters on a floor jack. Documented in the thread listed below. Actually removed the stake and drilled/tapped where the stake had been. More work than you want to go to but you get an idea of how those are constructed.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=248594

 

[Roju1985]

I've been using a Knipex pliers wrench on the upper race as you and Gungatim suggested. The thickness of the tool makes it difficult to tighten it flush (also have to be careful not to crush the race). But this is the best solution that I found also. It is does not fit a wrench very well as the edge curves down over the bearings.

If you want to spent the time you could cut a slot in the top of the threaded section to hold it with a flat blade screwdriver then tighten the nut with a wrench similar to how the top nut on some rear struts are tightened. But not sure it's worth the time...

 

[Empty Pockets]

What if you used a small Vise Grip type of locking c-clamp on the sides of the nut head? It might mark the nut head, but if appearance isn't important, it might work

 

[JoeMA]

Appreciate all the suggestions. I'm able to get them on eventually, just wondering if I was overlooking a better way, or tool, to do it.

I buy these bins, each with a set of casters, and then stack them 3 or 4 high. So I always have extra casters that I use for other things. Every time I put one on, I think that there must be an easier way.

 

[Bighead38]

What about taking the wheel off first. Then tighten and out the wheel back on.

 

[DHCrocks]

I see a nut on the wheel axle. remove the wheel and get all the access you need.

 

[Dingleburry]

What about taking the wheel off first. Then tighten and out the wheel back on.

This?
With a #3 or #4 phillips?
Or large flat blade?
Or electrical locknut pliers?
Grind down a pos wrench?

 

[Swingpress]

Air hammer. But, GO EASY!!!

 

[ericb445]

use a regular nut with a lock washer, instead of a nyloc nut?

 

[MikeF2316]

What about taking the wheel off first. Then tighten and out the wheel back on.

This was my first thought. Then you could grease the axle properly as you reassemble.

 

[JoeMA]

I see a nut on the wheel axle. remove the wheel and get all the access you need.

Yes, the wheel can be removed to get a straight shot at the bolt head but you still have to deal with the funky security-type head or try to hold the nub of the head with pliers. Maybe this is how they do it in the factory and they have a tool to fit the bolt head.

 

[NoahG]

You need a caster wrench! Made by Shepherd.


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[Bighead38]

Post a pic of the head. It's probably a common security bit that you can get in a security but set from Autozone.

 

[Thumper68]

I would just tack weld the head, then you don't need a tool at all.

 

[gungatim]

the flange that holds the bearings should be one with the threaded shaft, solidly welded or some other way, but that is what you hold while turning the nut, not the shaft itself. I've never seen one that didn't have flats to use a wrench or pliers, but obviously yours are different in that respect. regardless, some channellocks should do it, if not I bet you could use a pin wrench or even fabricate something to get under those cutouts to hold it. you shouldn't need much force once the nyloc nut has a few turns on it and forms the threads.

I suppose one final suggestion is to use a star lock washer, put that on first, then the castor. it should lock and hold the outer bearing surface to the bin so it doesn't move while you tighten the nut. actually, I am surprised they don't include them.

actually, I just checked their site, those look to be the stack and hang bins, unless I am missing something, I don't see any bin options like that that come with castors. therefore, I suggest buying a different style castor maybe? where are you sourcing the ones you have?

 

[Roju1985]

You need a caster wrench! Made by Shepherd.


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Well would you look at that! Another tool I need/don't need!

 

[EOC_Jason]

I've always just used an adjustable wrench that had a thin profile to hold the hex part as someone posted a pic earlier in the thread.

 

[DenisG]

Water pump pliers on the top flange.