What torque meter for setting pinion bearing preload?

[Quick01GT]

I'm looking to buy a torque meter for when I do my gears, I already bought a T&D pinion depth tool but don't know if I should get a 1/4 drive or a 3/8 drive torque meter? Does it matter?

Online I have seen 1/4" but can't find if that is specific for what it's intended purpose is.

Thanks.

 

[Tim37]

You need the beam type that has a long needle and a gauge near the handle. Drive size isn't important what's important is that the preload specs are in the range of that wrench and that you have a socket that will fit the nut and drive on the wrench.

 

[Buckgnarly]

Get a dial type with follower needle, it's the best style for rotational preload. I use a CDI 1/4 drive for the lower inlbs, but be prepared to stack adapters!

 

[Quick01GT]

Get a dial type with follower needle, it's the best style for rotational preload. I use a CDI 1/4 drive for the lower inlbs, but be prepared to stack adapters!

That's what I was wondering, my friend has a 3/8 drive CDI he will sell me for $60, as long as it's in the torque range it should work correct?

 

[zmotorsports]

Get a dial type with follower needle, it's the best style for rotational preload. I use a CDI 1/4 drive for the lower inlbs, but be prepared to stack adapters!

This is what I recommend as well. I have a 3/8" Proto dial with a follower needle that I have used for the past 20+ years for setting up pinions and it works great. Love my Proto dial torque wrench, but pinion preload is about the only thing I use it for.

Mike.

 

[MrGiggles]

I got by with a 1/4" drive beam type torque wrench from Autozone for 20 bucks.

You'll need a 1/4-1/2 adapter. I had to make one.

 

[Olafur]

I have used my 1/2" drive "digital torque adapter" for pinion preload several times. Even if it's rated from 20-200Nm - it starts to display readings @ 3-4Nm. And by comparison it's reasonably accurate down there.

So just turn slow and observe the reading. I guess for most automotive diffs 3/8 or 1/4" units would be better choice.

 

[pi_guy]

1/4 Snap on mine goes up to 30 inch pounds
My friends goes to 75 inch pounds
The dial type works well you can see pre load depending on what your requirements are.

Long wrenchs take away the feel and provide force on downward stroke.

 

[turbowoodworker]

I should forward this thread to my EX mechanic. I moved and had to find a shop closer to home. So my leaking pinion seal got fixed but for a week after, I heard a low growl on decel down hills. Went back to my old shop. They found the preload was not set and the "nut" (my term) was 360* loose. Fortunately no bearing damage.

(So why didn't I go back to shop that did the work? When they "fixed" the pinion seal they said my trans pan was leaking. So I had them do that too. The next morning I come out to find two quarts of ATF running from beneath my F150. So I'm back with old reliable shop and never happier).

 

[Sycan]

They don't use a torque wrench to reset preload after a pinion seal replacement. Mark the pinion nut and pinion position and count exposed threads. Put it back where it was, sounds like they had a counting issue!

 

[3 Gun Shooter]

I have a Snap On 3/8" drive dial wrench it's 45 years old still works perfectly.

 

[VoodooCLD]

I used a snap on 3/8" torqueometer for the 2 rear ends i did.
https://store.snapon.com/US-Reading...eg-U-S-Basic-150-in-lb-3-8-drive-P634598.aspx

Got mine at a pawn shop for $40. They don't bring much on the used market because they don't have many uses besides setting bearing preload.

 

[Buckgnarly]

They don't use a torque wrench to reset preload after a pinion seal replacement. Mark the pinion nut and pinion position and count exposed threads. Put it back where it was, sounds like they had a counting issue!

The proper way is to set it to the used bearing torque spec, especially if that F150 had the 8.8 with crush washer.....not that every mechanic does it the proper way.

 

[Sycan]

To accurately do that you need to gut the differential, wheels , brake drums, axles, and carrier. Not going to get an accurate preload turning everything. A 94 f150 with an 8.8 rear end books 1.3hrs to change pinion seal. I can only imagine the guys in the rust belt doing all that for a 1.3 hr job that can be done by marking the position of the nut.

Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk

 

[3 Gun Shooter]

I used a snap on 3/8" torqueometer for the 2 rear ends i did.
https://store.snapon.com/US-Reading...eg-U-S-Basic-150-in-lb-3-8-drive-P634598.aspx

Got mine at a pawn shop for $40. They don't bring much on the used market because they don't have many uses besides setting bearing preload.

I use mine for torqueing valve bodies too. If you're not a transmission/rear end guy you don't use it a lot.

 

[Jazz1]

I use beam type but should have borrowed one as it has only been used once since '81. This one goes to 60 inch pounds,, others I have seen only go to 30 or 40

 

[Quick01GT]

Thank you guys, buying it as it seems to fit my needs.

 

[MBfreak]

Hi. I have overhauled around 20 MB 50-60`s style swing axle differentials, using the MB manual as a bible.
And yes, it is possible to retorque the pinion nut to as found position, but not very accurate.
If you want to do it right a strip down is needed so that only the actual pinion bearings load is measured.
I use a 150 mm diameter flange that I attach to the yoke bolts and wind a string around that. Then I measure the "pull loose" starting torque and the low rpm spinning torque by a handheld scale.
A nice bonus is that it is VERY easy to feel if the bearings are spinning smoothly, the slightest speck of dust will be felt as a bump in the string.

Sorry no pics, last I did was 20 years ago, no diipics.

Ola

 

[royesses]

I use a CDI dial type 0 to 30 lb/in for pinion bearing preload. When doing on the car I use a CDI 0 to75 lb/in or 100 lb/in dial type. I pull the axles and leave the the ring and carrier in place. Then I measure the torque required to keep the pinion and ring gear turning. Replace the seal and tighten the companion flange nut to get the same rolling torque I measured before disassembly. I don't use the memory pointer since it shows the torque to overcome inertia not the rolling torque as required.

 

[ttpete]

I have a 1/4 drive Indestro beam type that was designed specifically for this. Instead of a straight handle, there's a hole that you insert your finger into and turn it while watching the scale.

 

[CatSplat]

To accurately do that you need to gut the differential, wheels , brake drums, axles, and carrier. Not going to get an accurate preload turning everything. A 94 f150 with an 8.8 rear end books 1.3hrs to change pinion seal. I can only imagine the guys in the rust belt doing all that for a 1.3 hr job that can be done by marking the position of the nut.

When doing a pinion seal in-car, it's common to check rotating torque at the pinion with the axles still in, wheels/rotors/drums off. They check it before they remove the pinion nut and then when they reinstall the nut they torque it until rotating force is a couple of inch-lb higher than the first measurement. It's not really checking the pinion force itself as the axles/carrier are still in, but it's more accurate than the marked-nut procedure and takes about the same amount of time. Since all of the rotating components are constant apart from pinion torque, you're essentially measuring pinion preload delta, which is fine in this scenario.

I use a Park Tool TW-1 0-60 in-lb beam-type for pinions both in-car and out, it's cheap and accurate. The ball handle makes spinning the pinion steadily very easy, but sadly it looks like they've discontinued it this year.

 

[md21722]

I used a snap on 3/8" torqueometer for the 2 rear ends i did.
https://store.snapon.com/US-Reading...eg-U-S-Basic-150-in-lb-3-8-drive-P634598.aspx

Got mine at a pawn shop for $40. They don't bring much on the used market because they don't have many uses besides setting bearing preload.

I use this one too. CDI is another brand alternative.

 

[Cope]

I used a snap on 3/8" torqueometer for the 2 rear ends i did.
They don't bring much on the used market because they don't have many uses besides setting bearing preload.

Guess someone forgot to tell me that. I used my 1/2% TQ-150 to build several engines and do a few valve jobs.

 

[zmotorsports]

When doing a pinion seal in-car, it's common to check rotating torque at the pinion with the axles still in, wheels/rotors/drums off. They check it before they remove the pinion nut and then when they reinstall the nut they torque it until rotating force is a couple of inch-lb higher than the first measurement. It's not really checking the pinion force itself as the axles/carrier are still in, but it's more accurate than the marked-nut procedure and takes about the same amount of time. Since all of the rotating components are constant apart from pinion torque, you're essentially measuring pinion preload delta, which is fine in this scenario.

I use a Park Tool TW-1 0-60 in-lb beam-type for pinions both in-car and out, it's cheap and accurate. The ball handle makes spinning the pinion steadily very easy, but sadly it looks like they've discontinued it this year.

Exactly. This is the way I have always done them. Get a reference point before disassembly then after the seal replacement you have your reference point.

Mike.

 

[VoodooCLD]

Guess someone forgot to tell me that. I used my 1/2% TQ-150 to build several engines and do a few valve jobs.

You can use them, they are just much more difficult to use since they don't have a ratchet in them. The click type are way easier to use if your just setting torque.

 

[Cope]

You can use them, they are just much more difficult to use since they don't have a ratchet in them. The click type are way easier to use if your just setting torque.

Back in 1965-66, I didn't know about ratcheting torque wrenches. Torquemeter or beam style was all I had seen.