What torque wrench you guys use???

[bratwurst]

What torque wrench do you guys use???
I’m looking for a used snap on torque wrench on eBay, anyone know how far the 3/8 go up too?

 

[Schul590]

It depends on the model of snap on torque wrench, mine goes 20-100 and I think that’s the most common sold in my opinion, especially In the new techangle, it’s probably the best torque wrench on the market right now since it does ft/lbs in/lbs kg/cm angle and all that in one tool! Good luck on your search!

 

[bratwurst]

It depends on the model of snap on torque wrench, mine goes 20-100 and I think that’s the most common sold in my opinion, especially In the new techangle, it’s probably the best torque wrench on the market right now since it does ft/lbs in/lbs kg/cm angle and all that in one tool! Good luck on your search!

Yes I saw most go to a 100 but I guess that’s enough for most everything on a car

 

[Muddy72]

I bought a Tekton 1/2" Model 24335 off Amazon. I had it certified before I started using it. Always been reliable.

 

[plinker]

The most common 3/8 drive torque wrenches usually are either 5 to 75 or 10 to 100, both are in foot pounds. I have a S-K clicker (5-75) and a techangle Snap-on (5-100).

Not sure what your requirements are, but a Precision instruments split beam (or clicker) is pretty reasonable new and NOS Armstrong/Napa torque wrenches are common on ebay as well. CDI is also recommended (OE for most Snap-on, different ratchet head though)

I would be cautious with any used torque wrench. I bought one once, however it came from team torque and was checked over by them.



FWIW, with the two in 3/8 drive, I also use a 30-250 in lb CDI clicker and a PI 50-250 ft lb clicker. This covers the majority of my needs for automotive.

 

[Lamakocklee]

As Schul590 said, it depends on what model torque wrench as some manufactures have different models in 3/8 sizes.

I am currently using torque wrench from CDI (http://www.cditorque.com/) as well as the split beam styles from Precision Instruments (http://www.torqwrench.com).

I don't recall the exact model numbers, but the ones I have are nice Made in USA units.

On a side note.. CDI is a Snap-on company... the prices for the CDI wrenches are very reasonable in my opinion.

edit... plinker beat me to the CDI and precision info....

 

[bratwurst]

So Clickers vs Split beam style torque wrenches what’s better ?

 

[plinker]

So Clickers vs Split beam style torque wrenches what’s better ?

Split beams have fewer internal moving parts and dont have to be returned to the lowest setting when not in use (I would anyway). Accuracy wise I think they are about the same. They are a bit faster to adjust.


https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Instruments-PREC2FR100F-Wrench-Torque/dp/B000YOX568

 

[Wamsutta]

I have a QJR117E. I got it brand new off of eBay for $140.

Absolute awesome torque wrench.

 

[General Geoff]

When practical, I use a good old fashioned beam torque wrench. Requires no setting, and calibration just requires bending the beam to read zero at rest.

 

[JulianMorrow]

I bought the Tekton 1/2" Torque wrench 24335. It's rated up to 150 ft/lbs. I really like it. It's my first torque wrench, so I didn't want to spend a lot of money. I *think* torque wrenches need to be re-calibrated every few years (depending on use).

I have no idea how to re-calibrate a torque wrench; instead of paying someone to re-calibrate it, I'll probably just replace my torque wrench every few years. The Tekton is only $40, so it's not a big expense.

 

[GTO]

I have an older Husky 1/2" and a newer Tekton 3/8"

 

[Notgrownup]

Harbor freight man...lol

 

[Jazz1]

I have a split beam I got 40 years ago that is still accurate. I had to get bigger clicker torque Mastercraft for working on wife's car. I also have a 1/4" beam style.
I prefer click type, easier to hear than see a little mark on beam

 

[601HP]

I seem to be all over the map regarding types.

I have a very small 1/4" drive beam-type for 0-80 in-lb.

A 3/8" drive digital for 10-100 ft-lb.

A 1/2" drive clicker for 25-150 ft-lb.

The newest purchase is a 3/4" drive for 50-365 ft-lb.

 

[Formula]

All my clicker torque wrenches are Matco.

All my angle torque wrenches are snap on.

 

[kabinenroller]

I have a CDI brand clicker that works very well. CDI is owned by Snap On so they manufacture all of the Snap On branded Torque wrenches.
I threw my HF in the trash but kept my beam styles although they never get used.

 

[CJM8515]

clicker cman which are rebranded gear wrench

 

[Packard V8]

So Clickers vs Split beam style torque wrenches what’s better ?

One example is certainly an anomaly, but I just calibrated all my machinist's torque wrenches. The only one which didn't pass was the fanciest, highest-dollar; a 1/2"dr Snap-on flex-head split beam. It was pulling 5# higher than the dial at 100#. All the micrometer clickers, including Snap-on, Proto, Utica, were spot on.

jack vines

 

[txvwnut]

Precision Instruments, ‘merican made and affordable.

For the record all torque wrenches click when they hit their limit. Except for the electronic ones which beep and or vibrate and double beams which do nothing.

 

[txvwnut]

I have a split beam I got 40 years ago that is still accurate.

That’s actually called a beam or double beam torque wrench.

 

[6PTsocket]

That’s actually called a beam or double beam torque wrench.

txvwnut: that is not quite correct. A beam torque wrench is just that, a steel beam or rod that has a scale at the handle and a pointer at the drive end; no moving parts. It just shows beam bend on the scale. A split beam has a setting adjustment and is a clicker that clicks at the desired torque. I have never seen the term "double beam". A beam wrench works CW and CCW. A split beam only works CW.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[bratwurst]

I’ll probably settle for a clicker

 

[Packard V8]

Precision Instruments, ‘merican made and affordable.

For the record all torque wrenches click when they hit their limit. Except for the electronic ones which beep and or vibrate and double beams which do nothing.

Yes, The first torque wrenches were deflecting beam/double beam which make no click.

The beam type torque wrench was developed in the late 1920s by Walter Percy Chrysler for the Chrysler Corporation and a company known as Micromatic Hone. Paul Allen Sturtevant—a sales representative for the Cedar Rapids Engineering Company was licensed by Chrysler to manufacture his invention. Sturtevant patented the torque wrench in 1938 and became the first individual to sell torque wrenches

The click indicator torque wrenches came along soon afterward.

In 1935, Conrad Bahr and George Pfefferle patented an adjustable ratcheting torque wrench. The tool featured audible feedback and restriction of back-ratcheting movement when the desired torque was reached.

The split beam is relatively recent

The dual-signal deflecting beam torque wrench was patented by the Australian Warren and Brown company in 1948. It employs the principle of applying torque to a deflecting beam

jack vines

 

[PhantomEB]

Both of mine are SnapOn. I recently found out there’s a dealer in the neighborhood so I am looking at gettin both cases as well a 1/4” as well an inch pounds one. Just cause!

 

[ihateminimumwage]

Still running the Husky USA/Gearwrench (Matco/Armstrong) torque wrenches from more than a few years back. No longer available and low tooth count, but still no issues.

I'd say go with a clicker, but that's all I really know. Finer the tooth count the better.

 

[watchdawg]

I used to use Craftsman torque wrenches but I converted over to CDI several years ago when both of my Craftsman torque wrenches broke. I can't say enough good things about CDI.

 

[monster1]

USA made Craftsman 1/2" drive

 

[JJ99SS]

CDI. I own three of them.

 

[HenryAZ]

CDI. I own three of them.

CDI Torque. I own several, both beam and clicker types. The SK clickers appear to be rebranded CDI's. They probably make for many brands.

 

[bigdav160]

What torque wrench you guys use???

 

[Magnum440d100]

I use an older/newer (about 10yo) Craftsman 1/2” drive clicker type. I don’t think it’s a made in USA one though.

I’ve put together many high revving motors with it, torqued wheel lugs with it, etc and it’s been accurate.

For the smaller stuff I have a cheap Harbor Freight in/lb clicker type unit. I don’t use it for precision stuff. It’s my go to for plastic intake plenum (think GM 3.8), old school oil pan bolts, valve cover bolts, stuff that doesn’t need to be EXACT. Just close haha.

I’ve put together many many motors/clutches/etc with the above tools.

I definitely WANT to upgrade, though. Just out of pure want.

Good advice in this thread. I’ll be following along too!

 

[ChrisLS8]

3/8 split beam CDI
1/2 Tekton for lugs
USA Husky 3/8 clicker
And a Pittsburgh digital adapter

 

[ChrisLS8]

Beautiful setup sir

 

[Nfenimore]

I use Tektons..

 

[Garett]

I have a 0-80 3/8” snap on,

A 1/2” precision instruments, to replace my 1993 craftsman that was stolen from my truck.

Also have an inexpensive Canadian tire maximum 1/2 for backup.

And a 3/8” flex beam/pointer torque wrench needed for some engine parts.

 

[jsmeece]

Three Armstrong (1/4 [64-032], 3/8 [64-041] and 3/8 [64-046]) and two Matco (Armstrong clones) (3/8 [TRB75F] and 1/2 [TRC250F] both flex heads).

Have two older Craftsman clickers (3/8 and 1/2) that are hardly touched any more, still use the 1/2 Craftsman for lug nuts, had to use the Matco for just lugnuts. Also have a 3/8 drive Craftsman beam that I have had since high school, have not used since I rebuilt my last 289 engine in the early 1990's.