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What type of 220 outlets?

loosegroove

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What type of 220 outlets?

I am working on the new wiring of my garage and I have been told by a few people that I should run a 220 line for future use. However, I am not sure what type of 220 outlets that I should run.

Would you guys recommend a 20 amp 240 outlet with two hot's and a ground wire

Or would you guys recommend a 30 amp 240 outlet with two hot's, a neutral, and a groud

thanks
 

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TOO Z MAXX

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It dependes on what you want to do with it. Dryer, compressor, welder, tread mill and even lighting.
If you are not sure I would run some 6/3 romex to a location you might want a 220 outlet. This will be good for a 220 appliance up to 50 amps. Just make sure you use a deep box.
 

bmwpower

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What outlet you use will depend on the type device you're hooking up to it. For smaller devices with prewired plugs, you're not supposed to cut off the plug to fit the type of outlet you have installed. Larger devices will need to be wired according to specs of the device (sized for the appropriate wire and plug), usually found on the nameplate of the device or motor.

For a 240v device, like a welder or an air compressor, you only need 2 hots and a ground, ie. 6/2, not 6/3. This makes a big difference in price when you buy the wire.
 

byrdman

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bmwpower said:
For a 240v device, like a welder or an air compressor, you only need 2 hots and a ground, ie. 6/2, not 6/3. This makes a big difference in price when you buy the wire.

And a noticeable difference when you try to pull it through studs, around corners, etc! 6/3 with ground is a fairly large wire.

I ran 6/2 for a 7.5HP air compressor, 8/2 on two 220 plugs for welder/plasma cutter, and 12/2 for a lift. If you aren't sure on which receptacle to install, just leave the wires hanging until you buy the welder/compressor etc, then buy the receptacle.
 

TOO Z MAXX

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I recomended 6/3 because it gives him the option of running pretty much anything in the future. Their is no problem with oversizing the wire except $$$.
 

64coupe

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Louisville, KY
Getting it inspected?

loosegroove said:
What type of 220 outlets?

I am working on the new wiring of my garage and I have been told by a few people that I should run a 220 line for future use. However, I am not sure what type of 220 outlets that I should run.

Would you guys recommend a 20 amp 240 outlet with two hot's and a ground wire

Or would you guys recommend a 30 amp 240 outlet with two hot's, a neutral, and a groud

thanks

If you are getting this inspected, the latest code requires 4 wires for 220V, but your county may not require it. I just wired mine with 50A outlets and 6/3 w/ ground wire .

Keith
 

byrdman

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64coupe said:
If you are getting this inspected, the latest code requires 4 wires for 220V, but your county may not require it. I just wired mine with 50A outlets and 6/3 w/ ground wire .

Keith

"4 wires" counting the ground? As in, 6/3 with ground = "4 wires"? To the receptacle? What do you do with the extra wire for things like welders?
 

bmwpower

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Maybe 4 wires to garage sub panel from main panel, ie. 1 neutral, 2 hots and a ground? Not aware of that code for a receptacle.
 

TOO Z MAXX

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I know most hot tubs are wired with 2 hots, a neutral and a ground. I have seen 220 outlets that have 4 wires to them but I am ot sure what they are for.
 
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bmwpower

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Usually a 4 wire device (oven/range, for example) will need 4 wires because it has the need for 240V (the heating elements) and 120V (the electric clock). Same probably holds true for a hot tub, which most of the time has lighting (120v) and powerful motors (240v).

I'm not aware of any devices in a garage that may require 4 wires, but I guess it's possible.
 

BetterDays

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What about 12/3 wire?

I ran this to my garage on my dedicated outlet, but am only using one hot (1 20 AMP Breaker).
 

bmwpower

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BetterDays said:
What about 12/3 wire?

I ran this to my garage on my dedicated outlet, but am only using one hot (1 20 AMP Breaker).

I assume you referring to a 120V outlet, no?

You can use this wire, however:

(1) It costs more
(2) And is a lot harder to run through the walls because the conductors are wound and the cable is stiffer, larger diameter
(3) You don't need the extra conductor

You would just cap off the remaining lead (one both ends) and stuff it in the box.
 

BetterDays

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I take it that it is too small for a 220V in the future? I have it used for a single 120V now.

I ran 2 12/2 in the garage (lights, outlets) and 1 12/3 (dedicated outlet, 120V now, looking at 220V in the future), along with phone, cable, and ethernet.
 

bmwpower

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BetterDays said:
I take it that it is too small for a 220V in the future? I have it used for a single 120V now.

I ran 2 12/2 in the garage (lights, outlets) and 1 12/3 (dedicated outlet, 120V now, looking at 220V in the future), along with phone, cable, and ethernet.

No, you could use it for 220V if you wanted in the future, but you'd be limited to 20 Amps.
 

bmwpower

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Yes:

12 gauge is good for up to 20 amps
10 gauge is good for up to 30 amps
etc.

Most 220v equipment I've seen, however, is rated at over 20 amps.
 
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