What type of drain?

[swampthang]

I plan of putting a drain in before the concrete is poured and was wondering what everyone recommends. Prolly be washing vehicle and snow melt so something that would work good for that and easy to clean out if clogged is a must. I have a lowes and menards close so maybe something that they would sell would be the easiest for me to get. any opinions are a help.


Also I would like to see some pics if you have any!

 

[Rock knocker]

Becomes complicated if inspections are required for your new building, because a tie-in to the sanitary sewer could be required for any interior drains.

 

[tncatadjuster]

http://www.tuf-tite.com/2HDS-1.html

 

[swampthang]

No codes or inspections to worry about.

 

[mygarageone]

No codes or inspections to worry about.

If it were me , I would put in a trench drain just about 5-6 ft inside the garage door.

 

[James-W]

No codes or inspections to worry about.

When you say "no codes or inspections to worry about", does that mean you checked into it and drains are OK, or do you mean you don't plan on telling anybody about it?

 

[swampthang]

I asked I can have the drain in my floor. Here's one type I like. Anybody use this before? http://www.homedepot.com/p/Tuf-Tite-36-in-Plastic-Trench-Pan-TPAN-36/203414051

 

[Ron Lombardo]

... in either case ... you need something to catch the sediment otherwise the pipe will become clogged with dirt which once hard is very difficult to removed ... so if you use a trench drain .. they make one with a box on the end or jsut stub the pipe up 4" higher so the sediment falls to the bottom and water rises over the top and drains or a commercial floor drain 12 x 12 that can handle the weight of a vehicle usually called medium to heavy duty auto deck park ... with a sediment bucket option ... if your going to powerwash or drain basically anywhere ... i would put a oil separator after the sediment separator ... just because its the right thing to do rather then draining grease and oil to the ground or public sanitary system ... they make cheap inexpensive options .

 

[swampthang]

I was looking into that type of drain too. Looks like you could get more service life out of it before it would clog up. Planned on the oil/grease separator as well.

 

[indyokie]

1st suggestion = if you drive over it- find and use only a drain that has a load rating assigned and provided. 2nd suggestion is you only purchase a drain with a replacement top. and purchase one to keep...20 years from now, you will thank me.

 

[Scott r c]

I use one similar to the tuf-tite, but its called "trench drain in a box" For a plastic drain it has a really high load rating.

 

[mygarageone]

There's only one problem with the box store trench drain , no built in slope for drainage.
So you will have to wash it down every so often , as it will collect dirt and junk .
If you go with a built in slope trench drain , some what costly but worth it if you can .
Or you can frame your own and build in the slope your self .

 

[Firebird 1]

Ive built quite a few firehouses and each bay always gets a drain. The easy ones are located a couple feet parallel with the door with the floor sloping to the front, the more complicated have a drain down the centre line of the truck. Floor needs to be sloped in 4 directions per bay. These always have a grease trap and separate sediment box. Doing it the right way can be expensive.