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What type of piston ring compressor?

Rustypigeon

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May 2, 2014
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I just had a thread for which type of piston ring expander people prefer. Everyone seemed to prefer using their fingers. Now I am wondering which type of piston ring compressor people prefer using.

Do you prefer the top wrinkle band type or the bottom pictured band type?

RCW60.jpg

syk5036370c.jpg
 
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SgtHawkUSMC

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I use the bottom one. It would depend on what size piston and how often you're using the tool.
If I were building a lot of blocks with the same sized bores, I would buy the conical ring compressor that the piston just slides into and then into the block. You need one for each size though. For a 396 for example: 4.095", 4.125" & 4.155". These three would cover a 396ci standard bore, .030" over and .060" over. Or, of course, a 402ci standard and .030" over.
Here is what they look like.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MIuuOQgcSo2AIVi0sNCh3yugAvEAQYAiABEgJv5fD_BwE
 

71firebird400

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Oct 25, 2016
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I agree with Dave; the tapered aluminum ring compressors are the only ones I use anymore.
 

2oolhound

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You can make pretty descent ones from pvc pipe just under size then cut a slit across one side so you can spread it. It has enough spring to close the ring for installation.
 

goodysgotacuda

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I build so few engines that I spend money on the tapered ring compressors. They are so much better than the other types..
 

crf450x

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I generally use the pliers. Used to use the wide band type like the bottom picture. I get mad every time. I've also used the tapered ones. They are by far the best.
 
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Schurkey

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I've used the wrinkled model for 35 years w/o issues. I clean it well between engine rebuilds, lube the inner areas of the bands and adjust the bands and fulcrum to have the pressure just enough to compress the rings into the lands fully. I believe it's a Lisle or K&D.
Lisle invented it, and still sells it. Very recommended.

Some damned criminals stole the design, produced it in Asia, and unless things have changed since the last counterfeit I saw, they weren't smart enough to build it RIGHT, or perform proper QA on the assembly. The slots in the band were stamped from the wrong direction, so that the ragged, sharp edge would destroy the face of the rings as they slid down the band into the block.

I saw this many years ago, and haven't seen a knockoff out-of-the-package since. Maybe this manufacturing flaw has been fixed...maybe not.
 

bob15

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I've only used the smooth bottom style. In fact, the one I own/use was my Dad's which puts the tool age at least 50 years old. Never had an issue with it.
 

Partsguy57

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Tapered ring. By far the best in my opinion...828489a3d38a6da36b0a80636d372114.jpg7592799e35a1a1c871ad57e633f01068.jpg

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seber

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I do so few engines I find a screw drive hose clamp is quite adequate. Just did one last week. Before that maybe 6 or seven years ago.
 

kkroger

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The Tapered ones are best but if you are just doing one then either of the two you show will work, if you do more than one bore size or odd bores from time to time (I've done a lot of .040 over engines in collector cars to save the block for "One more try" down the road...) the pliers type works just fine for me, the two in the OP have been used to overhaul more engines than I can possibly imagine. unless you are rebuilding racing engines constantly (every 500 miles or so) the tapered are not cost effective....
 

Partsguy57

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The Tapered ones are best but if you are just doing one then either of the two you show will work, if you do more than one bore size or odd bores from time to time (I've done a lot of .040 over engines in collector cars to save the block for "One more try" down the road...) the pliers type works just fine for me, the two in the OP have been used to overhaul more engines than I can possibly imagine. unless you are rebuilding racing engines constantly (every 500 miles or so) the tapered are not cost effective....
Yes and no... For the guy that does a lot of engines the tapered is the best, ( easy and fast a time saver)but on the other hand that same guy has no problem dealing with the other styles in most cases. Now a guy that does very few engines the taper is fool proof and may be the way to go vs fooling around with other styles that can give one problems due to lack of experience.. just my two cents based on owning a auto parts store and full machine shop for many years... Cheers

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Partsguy57

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Just wondered, what type have you used in the past on the Chevrolet "W" engines, IE. 348 & 409?

Motoretro
None in regards to that engine family.I was not the machinists, my brother was. I ran the front counter, he the machine shop. We were equal partners. He kept a tool box full for different engines,( we sold our operation a number of years back but we kept the machine shop for playing around.) now I buy one for every engine I build at home for personal projects. ( I hate to run to his place to " borrow my stuff" as it's half mine. Just put together this last spring 4.155 bore lsx... they work well and are cheap in the scope of things. They are one of those tools that once you try you wonder why you ever did without...now back to the 348/ 409. I know the cylinder is unique being part of the combustion chamber is part of the block and would guess a tapered compressor would not work. ( block deck is sloped and not at 90 to cyl) Didn't sell to many parts for the 348/ 409 so very far from a expert on them lol. But I have sold millions for other more" traditional" engines and some types of ring compressors did give the less experienced issues.. 21ebc799bfd10e2120d0f807b6268c77.jpgc62c0c1a1278c06c208285ad7a44cca7.jpg68f35857cff386c3c95d4e55d09daf10.jpg

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redvalkyrie

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Here's another vote for the Wiseco sleeves. I have three in metric sizes. If you need a special size they'll make you one.
 
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