what wire for 6-wire bathroom fan?

[bikesandcars]

I'm installing a bathroom vent fan with heat, 2xlights, and vent. This fan requires 4 power wires, 1 neutral, and 1 ground.

The heat requires 1400 watt so I was going to just run them all 14ga from the switch box to the fan.

I was going to run 12-2 from the breaker to the switch box.

What wire do electricians use for the run from the switch box to the fan?
Run 2x 14-3 romex? or 4 x 14-2? or some other combo?
Run a flex conduit and use THHN individual conductors?
Any other ideas?

edited

 

[NUTTSGT]

Are you putting this unit on it's own circuit ? If so, what size breaker ? Or what size breaker are you pulling from ?

 

[bikesandcars]

Are you putting this unit on it's own circuit ? If so, what size breaker ? Or what size breaker are you pulling from ?

Its own circuit. was going to do 20 amp to the switch box per install instructions.

Panasonic FV-11VHL2 Whisper Warm

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Panason...10-CFM-Ceiling-Ventilation-Fan-w-Heater-Light

Sorry the picture of the wiring diagram is so small, Garage journal changes it on me.

 

[Norcal]

Use flexible metal conduit, Greenfield, between the fan & switch & pull the needed conductors in it.

 

[mike93lx]

If it is a 20a circuit, all of the wiring needs to be #12 (assuming nm-b).

 

[b-boy]

I have a similar fan. Mine required a 2OA dedicated circuit. I ran 12/3. Red for the heater, black for everything else. I just pigtailed it.

 

[NUTTSGT]

If it is a 20a circuit, all of the wiring needs to be #12 (assuming nm-b).

This is what I was getting at with the questions.

 

[n8n]

agree with above comments, the wiring within the fixture may be 14 or 16AWG but for the wiring between the switch box to the unit, needs to be at least 12AWG with a 20A breaker. them's the rules...

 

[Terry D]

If the heat, (2) lights and fan is all going to be on its own 20 amp circuit, run a 12-2 and a 12-3 from the switches to the fan. The 12-2 will be for the heat and your neutral. The white in the 12-3 will be used as a hot along with the black and red. You will have multiple white wires in the fan, tie those together with the white in the 12-2 for your neutral. You will have (4) switched hots, (1) neutral and a extra ground up there, just tie both together. Make sure you over size you switch box, especially if you are using a stacked switch for this.

 

[bikesandcars]

I completely understand running dedicated 12AWG protected by a 20 amp breaker to the switch.

I don't understand why I would run 12AWG for a nightlight where the internal wiring isn't 12AWG. But if that's NEC then I guess it is what it is. Thanks for the feedback.

Thanks Terry D. I get what you are saying. Grounds get connected. One hot / neutral in the 12/2, 3 hots in the 12/3 (black, red, white). Will do it that way.

 

[Wrench97]

Because it's still on a 20a breaker.

 

[PLOWJEEP]

I’ve installed a lot of these fans. I used greenfield as Norcal suggested. Stranded wire is much easier to terminate wires in the small junction box.

 

[sparky 1971]

If the heat, (2) lights and fan is all going to be on its own 20 amp circuit, run a 12-2 and a 12-3 from the switches to the fan. The 12-2 will be for the heat and your neutral. The white in the 12-3 will be used as a hot along with the black and red. You will have multiple white wires in the fan, tie those together with the white in the 12-2 for your neutral. You will have (4) switched hots, (1) neutral and a extra ground up there, just tie both together. Make sure you over size you switch box, especially if you are using a stacked switch for this.

This. And use little orange wire nuts, That junction box in the fan is going to get full in a hurry. I like Ideal 73b's for things like this. They aren't listed on the spec sheet for a #12 and a #16, but work just fine.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

I completely understand running dedicated 12AWG protected by a 20 amp breaker to the switch.

I don't understand why I would run 12AWG for a nightlight where the internal wiring isn't 12AWG. But if that's NEC then I guess it is what it is. Thanks for the feedback.

Thanks Terry D. I get what you are saying. Grounds get connected. One hot / neutral in the 12/2, 3 hots in the 12/3 (black, red, white). Will do it that way.

Because youre putting it on a 20a breaker.

 

[bikesandcars]

Thanks for all the help, much appreciated.

 

[teamextreme]

That is one fancy-*** fan. Haven't seen one of those yet, but it does introduce some wiring challenges, as you're finding out. Good advice above.

 

[sparky 1971]

That is one fancy-*** fan. Haven't seen one of those yet, but it does introduce some wiring challenges, as you're finding out. Good advice above.

They have been around quite awhile, though I doubt very popular. There is a version from 1988 in my wife's bathroom. I also have another sitting in the box on a shelf just in case I need parts someday. Nutone 665RP is what I have. I am sure there are others.

 

[dls]

I completely understand running dedicated 12AWG protected by a 20 amp breaker to the switch.

I don't understand why I would run 12AWG for a nightlight where the internal wiring isn't 12AWG. But if that's NEC then I guess it is what it is. Thanks for the feedback.

The breakers only job is to protect the wire. It does not care what is connected to the wire, but the breaker rating cannot be higher than the lowest rating of the highest current-carrying wire of the circuit.
You could easily use 12AWG wire in 15-amp breaker, but not the other way around - if you overload your 14AWG wire, it could get so hot that the insulation will melt of the wire, without tripping the 20 amp breaker.

In addition, if your load is always-on type, like a heater, you should spec your wiring for 80% capacity. There is also a resistance loss factor, thinner wiring carrying amperage close to capacity will heat up, radiating energy through the wire and causing voltage drop at the outlet. You are always better off running thicker wire - it is safer and you are not wasting energy heating your walls.

 

[bikesandcars]

I interpret the job of the breaker is to protect the "installed" or house wiring, not the circuit.

The circuit in this case would be the entire loop from panel to light/heater/fan etc which isn't being fully protected.

Once the house wiring enters the fan unit it gets connected to AWG18(fan, lights) and AWG14(heater) without any additional fuses or circuit protection devices. In short (pun intended) an over-current inside the fan itself may not trip the breaker but may result in wire damage, fire, etc to the unit self.

All of that said, we need to draw the line somewhere I assume.

A 20 amp breaker protecting awg12 wires to an outlet does not protect the 16 gauge extension cord the home owner is utilizing.

Good comment on the 80% capacity rule, I made a miscalculation on that when installing a heater for myself and saw the error of my ways.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

I interpret the job of the breaker is to protect the "installed" or house wiring, not the circuit.

The circuit in this case would be the entire loop from panel to light/heater/fan etc which isn't being fully protected.

Once the house wiring enters the fan unit it gets connected to AWG18(fan, lights) and AWG14(heater) without any additional fuses or circuit protection devices. In short (pun intended) an over-current inside the fan itself may not trip the breaker but may result in wire damage, fire, etc to the unit self.

All of that said, we need to draw the line somewhere I assume.

A 20 amp breaker protecting awg12 wires to an outlet does not protect the 16 gauge extension cord the home owner is utilizing.

Good comment on the 80% capacity rule, I made a miscalculation on that when installing a heater for myself and saw the error of my ways.

No the stuff plugged into a circuit is utilization equipment.