What wire for computers

[sberry]

I want to run wire between buildings to a wireless modem. Our old router used 4 wires, I have another thread in parking that eludes to some of the problem but whats the way to distribute internet around the property?
The existing wire I have has 3 pairs. I assume I need 4 pair for modern equipment?

 

[Alchymist]

Cat5 cable.

 

[Robbie13]

Cat5 cable.

Yep, this.

 

[sberry]

It looks like about 135$ for 1000 ft at HD. It says indoor out door. Seems I saw one for 72 a thou too? It says indoor outdoor, does than mean it can go direct burial?

 

[Alchymist]

It looks like about 135$ for 1000 ft at HD. It says indoor out door. Seems I saw one for 72 a thou too? It says indoor outdoor, does than mean it can go direct burial?

Put it in conduit - never know when you might want to upgrade/add something.

 

[ddawg16]

Go with Cat6. Cost difference compared to Cat5 is minimal but has a heavier gauge of wire and a little bit better potential speed.

There are 2 kinds of Cat wire. Plenum and riser.

Plenum has a special sheath designed to tolerate the temperature in a plenum and potential fire and not outgas deadly gases.

Riser is a lot cheaper and is your typical between floors and general wire **** up Cat wire.

Neither is direct burial rated.

I think it would be a lot cheaper to run a 1" PVC conduit and put riser cable it in.....cheaper in that you can later pull other data wire in it.

 

[theoldwizard1]

The existing wire I have has 3 pairs. I assume I need 4 pair for modern equipment?

Cat5 or Car5E or Cat6. Cat6 actually uses heavier gauge wire (22 instead of 24) so it is more "robust" (will survive pulling in a conduit with multiple cables).

All network cable has been 4 pairs for years and years. Only recently have they started using all 4 pairs (1000BaseT a.k.a Gigabit Ethernet).

 

[theoldwizard1]

Riser is a lot cheaper and is your typical between floors and general wire **** up Cat wire.

Correct me if I am wrong. Doesn't "riser" self extinguish in a vertical flame ?

 

[OCD]

Shielded Cat 6 will hold the best signal strength over a long run...

 

[bczygan]

Cat6 shielded direct burial:

http://www.amazon.com/Shielded-Waterproof-Direct-Ethernet-Cable/dp/B0056K1IIM

 

[ddawg16]

Correct me if I am wrong. Doesn't "riser" self extinguish in a vertical flame ?

Plenum (CMP) Rated Cable
Complies with NFPA-262 and UL-910. Only cable allowed in spaces defined as air plenums such as raised flooring systems and air handling ducts. Plenum cables must self extinguish and not reignite. They also produce less smoke than traditional PVC cables. The smoke and fumes are toxic.

Riser (CMR) Rated Cable
Comples with UL-1666. Defined for usage in vertical tray applications such as cable runs between floors through cable risers or in elevator shafts. These spaces cannot be used for environmental air. These cables must self extinguish and must also prvent the flame from traveling up the cable in a vertical burn test.

Other Cable Ratings:

Low Smoke Zero Halogen (LSZH) Rated Cable
Used in shipboard applications and computer networking rooms where toxic or acidic smoke and fumes can injure people and/or equipment. Examples of Halogens include Fluorine, Chlorine, Bromine, and Iodine. These materials when burned produce acidic smoke that can harm people and computer equipment. Low Smoke means the cable does not produce the heavy black soot and smoke common with PVC cables. These cables will self extinguish but cannot pass UL-910 or UL-1666 for a plenum or riser rating.

General Purpose (CM, CMG, CMx) Cable
Complies with UL-1581 testing. Will burn and partially self extinguish. Not for use between build floors or in air plenum spaces. Often these cables are used for workstation cables and patch cords.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

I want to run wire between buildings to a wireless modem. Our old router used 4 wires, I have another thread in parking that eludes to some of the problem but whats the way to distribute internet around the property?
The existing wire I have has 3 pairs. I assume I need 4 pair for modern equipment?

What kind of modem/internet do u have?

Are u wanting to move the modem?

If basic DSL only a single pair is needed.

If u have bonded pairs for Uverse, then u need 2 pairs...

Or are u wanting to connect the modem to a router?

If youre connecting the modem to the router, then u need CAT5e or CAT6.

100Mbps links only use 2 pairs...1000Mbps ala gigabit links use all 4 pairs...

CAT5e or CAT6 flooded cable would be the best for underground use....

How long of a run are we talking?

 

[sberry]

Ok, back. I want to connect the service from my office to a house about 150 ft, The modem is in my office and I have a wireless router I want to use in the house, a hard wired port would be good too. It sounds like I could backtrack and use my old wire where I need only 2 pairs. I see Bill posted a roll of wire, how far will that go?
I have a cold and my keyboard is giving fits.

 

[Sledhead406]

Im not sure what kind of distance you are going, but for reference CAT6 is only rated for about 100 yards, plus a bit on both sides for in wall runs and connections. I think total is 328 feet.

Any further and you will need to go fiber optic- the route I will be dealing with pretty soon.

Another option is a repeater somewhere along the line between connections but outdoors that isnt really an option.

** EDIT- just saw your run of 150 feet after I posted; you are fine with CAT6 but the distance info above is relevant for anyone else reading in.

 

[sberry]

I was curious, I could wire other buildings but its too far.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Im not sure what kind of distance you are going, but for reference CAT6 is only rated for about 100 yards, ...

All Ethernet (a.k.a. "network cable") will carry the signal 100 METERS ! (This actually does NOT have anything to do with the wire. It has to do with timing of the signal on the wire.)

Keep it simple ! Bury a 1/2-1" conduit and use plain old CAT5E. Leave a pull string. This stuff is so cheap, who cares if you have to replace it in 5 or 10 years !


Shielding is overkill. The twisted pairs in CAT5 or CTA6 and differential transmitter/receiver circuits in the source and destination give you all the electrical isolation you will need !

 

[theoldwizard1]

Wylie's comment can be confusing for the neophyte ! Don't move the modem/router. Run CAT5E or CAT6 from there. The 100 meter distance in practicality is more like 90 meters.

Routers and Wireless Access Points (WAP) can be cascaded. So if the other buildingeed multiple connections, just plug in another router (try to stick with the same brand) or WAP !

 

[Git]

The existing wire I have has 3 pairs. I assume I need 4 pair for modern equipment?

You may not NEED 4 pairs!

"Gigabit Ethernet" uses all 4 pairs to achieve a higher speed. But, you may be able to get away with just using two pairs if your existing wire is up to it

Also, from my experience - the main difference between Cat5 and Cat6 is that Cat6 has a plastic shield in the middle that helps prevent crosstalk and the wires have a tighter twist

If you already have a proper cable in place (using twisted pairs) you may be able to just use it (it would be worth a try at least). It also depends on what your internet speed is to begin with

Here is an example

The first pic is a typical wiring diagram - see how they are routing Power Over Ethernet (POE) on two of the pairs that aren't being used

The second pic shows the inner plastic shield in Cat6

 

[sberry]

The wire is shielded phone cable. I am miserable here and need to keep it simple today. I really don't care for all the tech, too frustrating for me, about like drivability on cars.
I really know only where 4 wires in the world go, 5 if you count one to the ground rods,,, ha,,,

 

[theoldwizard1]

The wire is shielded phone cable.

DO NOT USE PHONE CABLE FOR NETWORK CABLE ! It won't work (or a best not work well).

Conduit, CAT5E or CAT6. DONE !!!


Stop confusing the poor guy, he is "self-medicating" a cold (with who knows what) !

 

[Git]

Stop confusing the poor guy, he is "self-medicating" a cold (with who knows what) !

First of all, NOW that he mentioned he has a phone cable, I agree that it would not be ideal for his situation.

However, with that being said, if you had the choice of spending less that 1/2 hour terminating some EZ RJ-45 jacks on the phone cable and trying it versus trenching in a whole new line, I think some people would at least give it a try...

I would also consider spending $37 and trying to see if a Powerline adapter kit would work

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUICG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

ps - google 'telephone line for ethernet' - you will find a number of posts on the subject - like this one:
http://www.cnet.com/forums/discussi...phone-wiring-for-ethernet-connections-581415/

There are alternatives to trenching/pulling a new line

 

[theoldwizard1]

I would also consider spending $37 and trying to see if a Powerline adapter kit would work
.
.
.
There are alternatives to trenching/pulling a new line

You have to understand, there are people that digging a 1' deep trench and dropping in some conduit is a whole lot easier than messing with :unknown: electronics. I think sberry falls in that category !

KISS !

 

[jeffmoss26]

Cat 5e, if you go to HD they sell a tan or brown wire that has a little thicker jacket that is good for running outside.

 

[jhelrey]

Look on Craigslist... Someone might have a partial roll left from a project. I find amazing deals and also sell.

When I do custom tile showers and I have Redgaurd left, I sell it. Someone is always needing just a little bit or half a gallon. I also get half a gallon price on it too. I don't dare to store it for more than a few weeks.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Hell, if he didn't live so far away I would give him my 500' spool ! Just return what was not used.

 

[bczygan]

Hell, if he didn't live so far away I would give him my 500' spool ! Just return what was not used.

If he didn't need to do it until next summer, I'd take him your roll, when we vacation up there, and bring you back the remainder.

Bill

 

[dw1]

I was curious, I could wire other buildings but its too far.

Check this out:
http://www.engeniustech.com/product...ts-client-bridges/outdoor-pro/enstation5.html

I was looking to get internet to my barn (its 1.25 miles down the road) This would not work in my application because of the terrain/trees in line of sight, but might work for you? if I had a direct line of sight, their engineers said I would be ok.

 

[sberry]

Hell, if he didn't live so far away I would give him my 500' spool ! Just return what was not used.

You are correct that burying a line isnt a deal breaker. I thought I had this problem solved the last time I did it, I actually have 6 pair going in but from 2 lines coming from 2 directions.
This stuff is problematic for me and real expertise here is far and few when it is more complicated than plugging in a cord and often even then there are problems.
I wish there was something I had to entice you to venture here to sit on this a day or 2 to work the bugs out. I should have taken a pic of the last line I put in to get exact location, I might find some pipe and put a new line in this week or at least have a conduit.
Buying wire is not really a problem.

 

[mobiledynamics]

SBerry =

PM me if you want to some burial wet flooded Cat5E. I'll just cut it off our spool and charge per the ft.

 

[MTW]

Re: What wire for computers? None, Go Wireless

I would go wireless if at all possible, especially if you want connectivity in more than one location.

Usually the installed cost is less than using cable, especially when distance is concerned.

Have a look at this thread I started over a year ago, for just that issue.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=244142

If you could supply a description of your property and building's layout and a sketch with distances it would be easier to make a recommendation.

MTW Ω

 

[GDPossehl]

How is the existing phone line run? Why not use that cable path with some outdoor rated cable if needed?

 

[theoldwizard1]

You are correct that burying a line isnt a deal breaker. I thought I had this problem solved the last time I did it, I actually have 6 pair going in but from 2 lines coming from 2 directions.

Wire is not "just wire" when it come to high speed digital communications. The physical size of the conductors, the exact type of insulation used on the conductors and the number of twists per foot are all important !

Just buy Cat5E or Cat6. Splices or couplers are OUT OF THE QUESTION !

 

[HandItOver]

I didn't see anyone mention it but just for reference, Direct Burial cable is filled with gel to keep the water out. I would recommend that.

If you want to go the pipe route I would recommend still using the direct burial cable or take your time and make sure all your joints are glued in the pipe. However, I have seen tree roots smash pipes in the ground over time so it still is a good idea to use the direct burial stuff. Pipe is nice if you think you might ever have to dig in the area again, or if you think you will be upgrading down the road (you will be, welcome to the 21st century!).

I'd also go with the highest category(Cat) cable you can, it will be useful for longer.

Technically you only need two pair of wire to run a home connection, but it does need to be data cable.

 

[sberry]

Ok, my line is phone line and it seems the deal is going to be to get a new wire. I am going to see if I can avoid hitting the existing one.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Ok, my line is phone line and it seems the deal is going to be to get a new wire. I am going to see if I can avoid hitting the existing one.

Phone wire will not work as a substitute for 100 Mbit Ethernet (network) cable.

 

[sberry]

It was really my error. We had the phone guy out and he was not really the right guy, another one had the material and wired around a questionable part in the circuit and all is working now as far as I know.