To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

What would you do different on your garage

51Magnum

Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2009
Messages
16
I am going to start building my shop (26x45) in the next couple of weeks and have a lot of ideas. However, I would love to hear what other people would do different on their shop. I build a lot of customs and street rods. So any suggestions from painting\body working to electrical, to heating would be appreciated.

I could not find a similar thread. If their is one please point me to it.

Thanks!
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

nate379

Banned
Joined
Feb 2, 2009
Messages
7,279
Location
Palmer, AK
Make it bigger. I'm sure everyone will say that.

My Dad has 4 and they are all full. 18x30, 13x16, 26x26 and 45x70
 

KenS

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 21, 2007
Messages
726
1. Have a minimum of 10-foot high walls-- 12 foot would be better.

2. Even if a lift is not in the current budget, consider space for it in the future.

3. Use room trusses rather than scissor trusses to create extra attic storage space.

4. If the garage is detached, run a few extra 3-inch underground conduits to it. Let them stub out though the slab, bury them in the wall and forget them-- at least until you need them.

5. Insulate the entire shop-- walls and ceiling-- and get good insulated garage doors. If you are in an especially cold climate, consider 2x6 studs on 24-inch centers rather than 2x4s on 16 to allow a deeper insulation cavity. If the garage is well insulated, keeping it at 50 degrees during unoccupied times in the winter will barely nudge your fuel bill.

6. Instead of wood baseboard, consider something tough like Hardie Board and run it at least a foot up the wall.

7. Wire the garage with plenty of 20-amp (rather than 15 amp) heavy duty receptacles. Install three 220 volt circuits-- one 30 amp for a compressor, and two 50 amps-- one in the front of the garage and one in the back-- for welders. Consider more 220s if you ae going to be running heavy machinery such as lathes, mills, etc. For really heavy duty applications, run 3-phase if available.

9. Install a few ceiling receptacles for things like ceiling mounted drop lights, etc.

8. Make provision for a small sink to wash your hands. If you have room, a commode is a luxury addition. This assumes that you will have water in the garage which is extremely handy.

9. In-wall fire extinguisher cabinets are cheap and a nice safety feature.

10. If you install a center floor drain, make sure your concrete man makes the floor slope toward it! (Learned this the hard way, and grinding cured concrete is a bear and a mess.)

11. Install celestory-type windows, especially on the north side of the garage if possible and if security allows them. Coupled with good ceiling light, a bright, well-lighted garage is not only safer, but much more pleasant and productive to work in.

12. Add blocking to the walls for future additions such as cabinets before the walls are covered.

13. If you are staying with a bare concrete floor, mark the center of each stud location on the floor with a permanent marker. Allow your stud marks to extend a half-inch past the finished wall. Knowing where the studs are will eventually come in very handy. Trust me.

14. When you pour the footer, include a brick ledge even if you don't intend to brick the building at the current time.

15. Be sure to adequately vent the attic space with a soffitt-ridge or power venting system.

16. In the slab, install a small drain line to the exterior of the building for draining your compressor.

17. Take special care to be certain that rain and water does not drain toward the garage doors. Work real closely with your concrete contractor on this, emphasizing proper drainage.

18. If you are considering painting in the garage without a booth, at least weigh the pros and cons of building a partition wall to separate the dirty mechanical area of the garage from the paint area.

There are a few things off the top of my head.
 

Kevin54

MEMBER EMERITUS
Joined
Jan 12, 2005
Messages
29,341
Location
Urbana, Ohio
I would have built mine taller and open. One side of mine is walled off and 14'x24' with a 4'' deep closet across the end. The other side is 22'x28' and open but only a 9' door. Ceiling height is just a tick over 8'. Also no bathroom. Funds were limited at the time and I went with what I could afford and paid cash. A hoist is a definate necessity as I get older. Arthritis is getting the best of me and laying on concrete is not an option. I can get down alright, but the getting up is what is a major struggle. :lol_hitti So do a lot of planning before hand. Cram everything into it that you can get on paper, then you can start taking away :thumbup:
 

kvom

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 1, 2008
Messages
820
Location
*******, GA
With a poured foundation, have a 6" concrete baseboard all around, and leave it bare (no wooden baseboard).

Run low-volatge lines for TV, internet, telephone as appropriate.

I have loads of outlets, but neglected to install one between the garage doors at a lower level (have high ones for the openers).

I definitely recommend jackshaft openers like the LM3800.

I love the radiant heating in my slab.
 

JohnK007

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 13, 2007
Messages
807
Location
Downers Grove, IL
Wow, KenS's list is pretty comprehensive! I have a feeling this whole thread is going to turn into a keeper for future reference!
 

GTO

Well-known member
Joined
May 8, 2009
Messages
3,927
Location
NJ,FL
Wow, KenS's list is pretty comprehensive! I have a feeling this whole thread is going to turn into a keeper for future reference!

+1

Also,garage door height is pretty important too.8-10' minimum
 

His200HerScout

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 17, 2009
Messages
217
Location
mid-michigan
My ceiling height is 11' but my doors are 8' tall. Couldn't go higher than 8' on the doors under the eaves because I have huge headers there. But I also have an 8' tall door under a gable, and that header is small enough that I could've put a 9' tall or maybe a 10' tall door in. I don't presently have any need for such a high door, but it'd make driving in easier in the future if I ever got a ______ whatever that might be.

The mantra around here at GJ seems to be "go big"
 

rieferman

Well-known member
Joined
May 18, 2009
Messages
2,586
Location
Collegeville PA (30 min west of Philly)
I've had the chance with my current re-build to mockup my workshop layout on saw horses etc. Although I took a lot of time thinking through the layout and drawing it out, living with a temporary version and actually doing work in the layout has been eye opening. I've definitely come up with new ideas and made some changes to lighting/table placement/storage/outlet placement etc.
 

Matti

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 16, 2007
Messages
412
Location
Canada
I would have spent more time laying out the exact location of benches, cabinets, hose reels, and 4 post lift. The problem was that I hadn't selected these yet which makes it more difficult.
 
OP
5

51Magnum

Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2009
Messages
16
Thanks guys, some great ideas! Especially KenS. Some really good ones.

I am going to have a 18' wide by 10' high door. See any problems with that?

I am thinking that I will do a 200 amp service to it.

Also, does anyone have any ideas on temporary paint booths? I do not do a lot of painint but when I do I would like to have good fans and vents etc.

Dang! I am getting excited again.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

ScaldedDog

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 15, 2008
Messages
1,065
Location
Sedalia, CO/NSB, FL
I'd have poured a flat floor, which I did, but with a little more slope in the first 6'. Then the water that came off the cars would actually go somewhere.

Mark
 

KenS

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 21, 2007
Messages
726
I am going to have a 18' wide by 10' high door. See any problems with that?

Excellent choice on the door. At that height be sure the top panel has transom windows across it. The door is tall enough that they won't create a security issue, but the extra light will be greatly appreciated, especially if the garage is north facing.

As I said earlier, spring for a quality insulated door. You won't regret it come winter.

I am thinking that I will do a 200 amp service to it.

It's not that much more than a 100 amp, but well worth having the extra capacity.

Glad you're excited.
 

JebNY

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2007
Messages
66
Location
Lost State of Franklin
The biggest things I would change:

I should have put in taller and wider doors, mine are 8'X8'.

Higher ceilings (I'm about a foot shy of having the room for a lift, they were not a possibility when I built the shop 27 years ago).

I have 4 deep bays, 12 foot wide, two are closed off for shop and storage. I should have made the center two clear span but I put two posts in rather than spring for a 30 foot I-Beam (they are often in the way).

I would have mirrored the whole building, I now have my shop in the far bay and the storage in the close bay to the house. I only did that because of ease of doing the wiring since it came in on the far end. Not a big deal but for a lot of reasons including WiFi from the house it would have been better to have the shop part closer to the house since that is where I always go in.

I should have made it 6-10' deeper, it is 30 feet deep, 36-40' would let me store two full size cars end to end.

Most everything else I screwed up has been fixable or redone over the years.

Jeb
 

KenS

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 21, 2007
Messages
726
The biggest things I would change:
I should have put in taller and wider doors, mine are 8'X8'.
Jeb

For esthetic reasons, I wanted two narrower garage doors when I built my garage. I really liked the "carriage house" look. But a good friend-- who is also a contractor-- convinced me to forgo two narrow doors in favor of one wide one.

He pointed out that this would make it easy pull a car into the center of the garage, and also would also prevent someone from accidentally hitting the center dividing support-- which also serves as a pillar for the headers of each door. (He's had to perform several such repairs.) To accommodate the wider door, we used an engineered beam-- a sandwich of wood and steel plate-- which carries the weight of the trusses above it.

The only drawback is when the door is raised in on a cold winter day, you experience greater heat loss, but the garage is so well insulated and heated that full recovery takes a couple minutes at most, dependent on how long the door remains open. Other than than, it was an excellent call and I'm glad I listened.
 

Harley Monster

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 18, 2008
Messages
72
Location
SoCal
Rule of thumb #1: Build it as large as you can afford.

I like the idea of having large garages partitioned so as to have a dirty and a clean side. If you grind, sand, paint, etc. and you have one bay everything gets dirty. My design, not built yet, has a clean side for storage and a dirty side for working.
 

pinebarkauto

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 26, 2006
Messages
67
Location
South Carolina
Consider 12' ceiling height a MINIMUM if you ever plan to have a lift to work under. I have a 12' ceiling and although it will work with my 3/4 ton truck on the lift if I bend my legs a little, I sure wish I had 14'. No problem at all with the cars.
 

sparky1562

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2008
Messages
115
Location
Nashville, TN
Same problem with my 3/4 ton. I put in Sissor trusses where the lift is, 12ft walls, with another 2 1/2 ft for the cab. Should have done that to begin with.

Mine is 27ft clear. Wish it was 30. Truck only fits where there is no bench on one end. With the car pulled in, no room to work between it and the bench if my table saw is out, or the engine hoist, etc. (multipurpose garage/auto shop/wood shop/man cave!)

I used 9 ft wide doors, should have gone with 10 ft (wanted the look of single doors, not double wide). Should have gone with all high lift doors.

Should have sprung for heavier trusses of the Attic type to create storage overhead.

I am sure I could think of more!
 

InPrimer

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 10, 2007
Messages
651
Location
lake Havasu AZ
Don't know if mentioned, my garage is 1500sq/' I really like my rear door, 9x9 so it make it into a 50' drive thru, only screw up, 10' ceilings so the 4 post had to go outside, which in my case no biggie, it never rains here in AZ. also the area is fenced in, last thought get youself a keyed entry for garage door opener,and 2 man doors to get in and out, comes in handy sometimes.
 

ket-tek

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 28, 2009
Messages
1,289
I only have a couple regrets, If I were to do the SAME garage build again, I would have:

1) gone bigger, of course:)
2) put radiant heat in the floor
3) Insulated the slab
 

MO-Iron

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 17, 2008
Messages
155
Location
SW Missouri
My only regret is no potty in the shop. My sure glad I did that, is running my over head door tracks with the pitch of the ceiling. I can drive a farm tractor or backhoe across the bays to move heavy equipment with no fear of tearing down the doors (don't ask what happened in the old shop).
 

...doc...

Member
Joined
Dec 30, 2008
Messages
11
Location
Houston
bigger (I have an outgrown 4 car garage)
taller ceiling so I can install a lift
A/C
speakers inside my garage, not outside over the garage doors.
built in storage shelves
more durabable floor (I have stained concrete, gasoline eat's the stain)


and did I mention bigger size garage?
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom