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What would you do w/ this floor?

12ozd

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Looking for options / opinion on this floor.

Garage floor pics

Floor is appx. 10 years old. My original plan was to epoxy coat (w/ chips) at time of installation. Plans got changed, and here I am now, ready to finish.

The floor - 4-5 " concrete poured on 4-5 " base of #57 stone on undisturbed subgrade. WWF, foam insulation and vapor barrier used. Slab had sprinkler used every day for appx.7 days. (built in june) in No.Va.
2 floor drains were installed, slab was to be sloped to the drains.

The problem - While I was "watering" the slab during the curing process, I noticed water pooling at various places around the slab. One drain actually had water pooling about 2 feet from it, "not to it, from it!"
We also discussed expansion joints would be installed between the garage doors, not in the center of the slab. This would make them less noticeable from the outside. No joints were put in.
I notified the contractor, met his partner at my house and showed him my concerns.
He said he really didn't have a way to fix it, and It was O.K. like it was.

I obviously was not going to accept that. I called the contractor back, told him I would rather deal w/ him and not his partner.
Following friday (4th july weekend) I arrived home and found he had sent a crew out to fix my slab. They had poured some kind of "&^%$" on the slab and attempted to smooth it out w/ a 2x4. (see grey material in pics)
There were plastic 1 gallon bottles and paper bags laying in the yard. Evidently a 2 part mix. To say I was pi*&ed would be an understatement!
Nice way to start my holiday weekend. Obviously the crew had the same thoughts.
Then I notice the expansion joint that was saw cut in the middle of my slab!
Not only was in the middle, it was crooked as he77!
Closer inspection revealed that he went (cut) around a grade peg in the floor!

Next week I call the contractor, explain the situation, his response; "no way, no way that crew did that, they are one one my better and most experienced crews, can't be as bad as you say".
Meet him at my house later that day, he is literally speechless.
He asked me if i was sure his crew did that. (who else is going to do that?)
Trying to come up w/ a resolution, he offered two options.
1. Demo the slab and start over.
2. Pour a 2-3" cap on top.

I wasn't to fond of either option. No way was I letting them demo the slab,
(it is inside of 2 poured concrete walls) I was afraid they would damage the walls or footers during the demo.

Which led us to option 3; send a crew out w/ a stone grinder and remove the coating. Ultimately we settled on this one, I made sure a different crew came out for this. He wanted the installing crew to fix it, but there was no way they coming back out.
I actually requested the wall crew come out, they poured the footers, walls, and did an excellent job! Yes, same company.

Wall crew comes out, spends about 8 hours grinding the floor. (dust for days!)
Finally tells me "that's about as good as it's gonna get".
I agreed, and left the rest between me and the owner.

Now the slab is better, still not acceptable, but I am running out of options and have to accept the fact that the floor is not going to be perfect.
Conversations w/ owner lead to him offering to paint the slab to finish the job. NO, not gonna happen. We agree to a discounted price, to get the floor epoxy coated.
10 years later here I am. Want to finish the floor, but not sure what to do!
While pressure washing the floor, the "grey coating" started to peel up.:mad:

I think the floor is to wavy to do (hard) tile.
I don't really want to do a plastic floor tile either, I do detailing in there and although there is slotted tile for drainage, water would sit under the tile where it does not drain.

Thanks for taking the time to read this long post.
Tried to include as much info as possible.
 
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nolimits76

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Hindsight is 20/20, but you should have demo'd the slab and re-poured it. Sounds like that is the only real fix.

Do you have any pictures to share of what it looks like today?
 

Tyberius

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Wilmette, IL
If you want to do ceramic tile, I say go for it.

You should be able to straighten out that floor with just [edit]thinset[/edit]. Do you have an 8 foot level to show the maximum deflection of the concrete? If there is too much, you can use a self leveler.

Just put an underlayment under the tile to handle the joints and cracks.
 
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SteveCh

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Dec 21, 2012
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I am not a floor expert, just have done a number of concrete jobs for myself around here over the years. I agree that demo-ing and repairing would have been the way to go, with a different crew and etc. No excuse for the uneven surface and drainage problems, to mention just a couple things.

However, this is what you have. So I would have to agree with the tile idea in thin set. It will take some real care and attention but that would pretty well even out the floor if done correctly. RaceDeck or etc. would also do it quite well, but you said you don't think that sort of product would be the best for your use.
 
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nolimits76

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Oklahoma
I finally found the pictures.

The real issue is you must fix your slab before you just slap flooring on top of it. Porcelain tile makes a lot of sense here because your tile setter can use a thinset to even out the slab when they are doing the install.

Be sure to read up on some of the good posts here regarding picking a good slip resistant tile. Guys like Jack have installed porcelain and rave on it. Contrary to popular belief, they state you can abuse the floor without it cracking.
 
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12ozd

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I'm guessing tile would be the most expensive option. 1200 sq. ft.
I could probably live w/ the grade if I had to.
Any ideas or suggestions to hide the ugly?
I really like the threads on the metallic floors, but guessing mine would not be a viable candidate.
Would a covering (ie epoxy) go over, or would it show every defect and "patch"?
Not a huge epoxy fan but, less of any ugly floor fan.
 
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12ozd

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Just the kind of floor RaceDeck was made for :)
I would agree 100%, I still have concerns about pooling water staying under the tiles. The floor will get wet often, also w/ detailing, what would stop dirt, mud, sand etc. from falling and collecting in the slots of the tile?
 

nolimits76

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Messages
959
Location
Oklahoma
I'm guessing tile would be the most expensive option. 1200 sq. ft.
I could probably live w/ the grade if I had to.
Any ideas or suggestions to hide the ugly?
I really like the threads on the metallic floors, but guessing mine would not be a viable candidate.
Would a covering (ie epoxy) go over, or would it show every defect and "patch"?
Not a huge epoxy fan but, less of any ugly floor fan.


I think getting a floor that slopes properly AND looks good would be my priority if I were you.

Lots of guys using $1/sf porcelain tiles. But I'd spring for an installer to do the thin set and leveling, unless you possess the skills yourself or no someone that can help you properly install it.

No offense meant but I'd probably find "Jose's crew" laying tile in a spec home for a builder and try to work a deal. Most those type of installers are independent and lack the big overhead of a bigger tile company. I bumped into a similar guy years ago and if I bought the materials then labor was pretty cheap.

FYI if you get the free flow plastic tiles remember you can see through them also. Some guys have posted pictures. I don't think it's super obvious but you may want it better hidden. To be sure order some samples and test it. This would be beneficial in several ways.

* You can verify aesthetics of seeing concrete through the free flow design.

* You can lay in your worst areas to see how they fit.

* You can see how fluids and grime flow (or collect) if you detail over your test area.

Lastly, the metallic epoxy is pretty awesome! From what I understand to get the cool effects you need to either practice or hire it done. The thing I like about epoxy is nothing gets under it. But prep work is critical. You need to fill in cracks and divets (epoxy suppliers sell this stuff). Also you have to clean and grind or acid etch your floor. Grinding is preferred. Never tried it but I would think you can over grind high spots to help smooth out your floor. Kind of the opposite approach to thin set.

Cost of normal epoxy is about $1 to 1.50 per SF but you also have to factor the grinding. Lots of guys rent a grinder from HD. But depending on your skill level this may be better hired out to ensure you get the floor slope/finish you want. Not sure cost of metallic.

As far as ease, the plastic tiles win hands down if you can live with all the other stuff. Plus you can take them with you to the next house.


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