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What would you pay for this

Thumper68

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Partially built 8x12 shed

3Ff3s93Hc5r15F15qad6dce93bcd3cb2c128d.jpg


Up for sealed bid what would you pay for it?
 
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Vegaman_Dan

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No floor, but the metal studs will be rather sturdy. Sheathing/siding, hmm. $300-500. The expense will be in the floor, sheathing, and roof.
 

Fordman7795

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No floor, but the metal studs will be rather sturdy. Sheathing/siding, hmm. $300-500. The expense will be in the floor, sheathing, and roof.

The expense will more than likely be in the transporting it. That looks to be a very overbuilt shed frame (tornado or hurricane country?). I built a 10x12 and had about $600 into all materials (wood studs, shingles, vinyl siding)
 

NUTTSGT

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It looks neat and all and you would think that 300-500 might not be bad. The biggest issue I would is the metal studs. It would make me think that all the exterior sheathing (walls & roof) would need to be screwed on.

I've never air nailed into metal studs, is it possible or would they pull out ? :dunno:
 

Kevin54

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It looks neat and all and you would think that 300-500 might not be bad. The biggest issue I would is the metal studs. It would make me think that all the exterior sheathing (walls & roof) would need to be screwed on.

I've never air nailed into metal studs, is it possible or would they pull out ? :dunno:

You have to use self tapping screws.
 
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Thumper68

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This shed frame was built by a local community collage in their building construction program, the same program that my oldest son just graduated from.

It's up for sealed bid and I am thinking about submitting a bid.
 

Zeke

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Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
I'll bet if you bid $501 you'll get it. If you bid more, that might be too much unless that's exactly what you wanted. I don't think there's 500 in materials there. If you don't care all that much, bid $301. If someone wants it badly enough, you'll likely lose out.
 

Chaznsc

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How are you moving it? Seems like a task to me, that things going to wibble-wobble all over the place.
 
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Thumper68

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It's fairly well braced and I would add a few more before putting it on the trailer.

I have seen it in person as it was being built, it was already moved about 200 yards from the loading dock outside the classroom where it was built to the spot its at.
 

jhelrey

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You can use fine threaded sheetrock screws to get into metal studs. Ignore the guys that want to use self tappers.
 

Kevin54

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You can use fine threaded sheetrock screws to get into metal studs. Ignore the guys that want to use self tappers.

I didn't mean self tappers per se, like a hex head self tapper, I should have said a self tapping countersunk headed screw :beer: You don't want to use drywall screws outside.
 
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NUTTSGT

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You can use fine threaded sheetrock screws to get into metal studs. Ignore the guys that want to use self tappers.
I wasn't thinking like a sheet metal screw but more of a drywall screw.

I didn't mean self tappers per se, like a hex head self tapper, I should have said a self tapping countersunk headed screw :beer: You don't want to use drywall screws outside.
The black coating that is on the drywall screw I think would hold up better than some common nails that I have seen left exposed for a long time.

After a quick search, I think I would use something like these, available in galvanized.

http://www.alliedbolt.com/drywallscrews.html



use a rollback to haul it

If you were to win it, do you have a set of moving dolleys (like the HF ones) ? If you have a few of them and put it under the corners, I think it would roll right up the ramp of roll back with very little stress on the building.

$301 would be my max bet.


Ask your son if they completed any other sheds. If they did, what did they use to fasten the sheathing to the metal studs.
 

Clubber

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How far you plan on transporting it. I'd call some new shed sellers and see what cost would be for delivery even if you plan on moving it yourself. That may be a consideration for other bidders. I have an 8x12 that had to be moved 30 miles, cost me $300. It took them a couple hours using a remote controlled tilt bed (cool factor of 10 with the various ways it could rotate and move) saved me and my friends a day of trouble. I'd bid in the $300 range as well. Good luck, hope it works out..
 

PugetDude

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If your son helped build it, you probably want to make sure you win the sealed bid...(without paying a whole lot more than it's worth).. maybe just consider it a donation to the program. Then make him help you finish it!
It will mean a lot more to you sitting on your property 20 years from now when you son has kids than it does sitting there in the parking lot now.

I'd probably bid $508. $607 if I really wanted it. YMMV
 
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Thumper68

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This was built by first year students, my son was second year, he was out working on a remodeling/addition project.

I was looking at it as a donation to the program.

Moving won't be an issue, it will fit on my car hauler just fine and only moving it 15 miles.

My thought on finishing the walls is to attach osb with drywall screws for metal studs, then siding over. Same for the roof but shingles to match the house.

Still haven't decided if I want it for sure.
 

BlindViper

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You can use fine threaded sheetrock screws to get into metal studs. Ignore the guys that want to use self tappers.

You can use fine thread screws on thin metal studs. But that shed should have thicker ones. It'd rather have self drilling drywall screws.
 

dlenkewich

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That's a really nice shed.

If it was built well, I'd jump on it for $800. Our materials are more expensive up here I guess. Have to factor something in for the labour that was put into it. That's an easy finish.

Pour a little pad for it and you have yourself a great shed.
 
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