What would you pay? THICK welding tables

[mineallmine]

Like others have said, if you have access to a metal recycler in your area or a metal scrap yard you can save a bundle by building your own table. I found a guy local to me that gets paid to clean up excess steel from job sites or something like that and he resells it at scrap price. People get a deal and he doesn't have to haul it to the metal recyclers himself, therefore saving time and labour. It's a win win for all. Here's one I built for under $300. Paid 40 cents a pound for the steel and lucked into a sheet of 1/4 inch stainless he gave me for the same price.

The advantage of building one yourself is also that you wind up with Exactly what fits your needs, not trying to make something "work"

My table is HEAVY weighing in at nearly 600lbs as he only had 1/4 steel square tubing the day I went. Figures after I bought he got a full shipment of 3/16...lol. At least my table isn't going to walk away on me.

Just keep your eyes open, the deals are out there.

Of the two I would opt for the second if the price were reasonable. You could use it as is for now while you rounded up what you needed to make a new base that suited your desired setup. The first ones look like more $$ than they are worth and would still need work to make them really useable. Just my .02 though

 

[ATC]

So I stopped at the metal supplier today and asked about 1/2" A36, and told him what I was going to do with it. He paused and asked if I could get away with 3/8". I thought for a second, and he came out and said "I have more than I know what to do with, and can make you a pretty good deal."

For about $220, I can get a 3'x7' laser cut. I'll see if I can keep the drops to make vise & grinder mounts too.

Seems pretty comical to start this thread looking at 1.25" tables and to go with 3/8"

 

[Strouty]

It will be a lot better than plywood.

 

[ATC]

It will be a lot better than plywood.

Slightly above the patio table I've been making due with...

 

[sberry]

The 3/8 will be dandy. My main is only 1/4 and it works.

 

[oldironfarmer]

How big is the stuff you weld?

I've gotten by many years very well with a 1/4" 26"x48" welding table. It is a little small, but much larger than will fit on that table I weld on the floor anyway, because its too heavy to lift around.

You get a table too big and it may wind up piled up with junk, expensive flat surface.

I wouldn't want any larger than 30"x60", I've worked in shops with big tables and they rarely get used well. You could buy the second one and split it then sell one table and keep one.

Another easy calculator is the width time thickness in inches (sq in) times 3.4 gives you pounds/ft. So a 1/2"x2" bar weighs 3.4#/ft.

Edit: I missed page 3, duh! 3/8" will be great and you donn't have to buy big clamps. 3'x7' is great! Congratulations!

 

[Measure2x]

I built two tables...the cost was about 600 for each for steel...and they fit where I wanted and they are mobile...









OP...If you can get a “you ****” deal on the first table...go for it...

Those are very nice little tables!

-Will

I have a website: www.measuretwiceplans.com

 

[sberry]

I like wider than 30,, 36 to 42 and 6 is plenty long. With the 7 ft that the op got it would leave room to put a hole and cutting bucket in it.
I need to.do a sketch but it's based on the general geometry of this.
One end simple overhand where any holes and slots are, for simple rigging g and cutting box on the other. This was patched as needed, if I had a free plate I would start over with less of piece approach.

 

[isb cornbinder]

I prefer the look of the second table. Number 2 may be about 1000 pounds. Number 1 is a monster. My guess is it will be close to 3000 pounds.
Number 2 has a clean simple look.

 

[ATC]

Picked it up today!

 

[dr_clyde]

That is a nice looking plate! What did you go with? Looks like at least 1"?

 

[ATC]

That is a nice looking plate! What did you go with? Looks like at least 1"?

It's the 3/8" I mentioned earlier. It should be enough for anything I can throw at it.

 

[dr_clyde]

It's the 3/8" I mentioned earlier. It should be enough for anything I can throw at it.

Man, that looks thicker than that. Must be an optical illusion. Either way, nice plate!

 

[sberry]

I built benches with tube, usually use some angle for support and can use it for legs too. I might see what a deal I could find, even pipe legs, angle too.
About 5 minutes welding time to put one together. I built about 200 of them for a job. Had the plates sheared, modular design, gang cut legs and angles. My helper could assemble 3 of them in a couple hours. Had a jig to tack up the legs. We built them upside down, squared a leg assembly, laid the long stiffness on with couple clamps put 9ther set of legs on and they squared with shelf steel.

 

[ATC]

I built benches with tube, usually use some angle for support and can use it for legs too. I might see what a deal I could find, even pipe legs, angle too.
About 5 minutes welding time to put one together. I built about 200 of them for a job. Had the plates sheared, modular design, gang cut legs and angles. My helper could assemble 3 of them in a couple hours. Had a jig to tack up the legs. We built them upside down, squared a leg assembly, laid the long stiffness on with couple clamps put 9ther set of legs on and they squared with shelf steel.

I have legs I picked up from the drop shop last year. 4" square...maybe 3/16" thick. 4" or 5" locking casters I picked up from Northern Tool last year on clearance. I have to dig around to see if I have anything for the upper frame for the top to sit on. If not, I'll probably just buy a couple sticks of 2x2 for it and the bottom shelf frame.

 

[dr_clyde]

I have legs I picked up from the drop shop last year. 4" square...maybe 3/16" thick. 4" or 5" locking casters I picked up from Northern Tool last year on clearance. I have to dig around to see if I have anything for the upper frame for the top to sit on. If not, I'll probably just buy a couple sticks of 2x2 for it and the bottom shelf frame.

Use 2-1/2" x 3/16" wall square tubing under the top so you can utilize it for hitch receivers.

 

[ATC]

Use 2-1/2" x 3/16" wall square tubing under the top so you can utilize it for hitch receivers.

Good idea. I already have a few of those receiver tubes from Northern I had planned on using.

 

[BukitCase]

ATC, good plan - or, if you're fortunate enough to have a steel supplier that carries it, you can get actual receiver tube - it's 2.530" od, 2.030" ID, for .030" slop instead of .125" slop. 1/4 as much slop and full 1/4" wall...

My supplier carries it; it's maybe 10 cents more a pound, but worth it to me. Still 'WAY cheaper than short receiver tubes, if you need a lot -

I've built probably 25-30 "tinker toys" for my full-size backhoe using that and 1/4" wall 2" tube, and will use the receiver stuff when I get to upgrading my 3'x7'x1" table, similar to what DrClyde's done... Steve

 

[dr_clyde]

If you do go with the regular 3/16" wall tube, a couple set screws really help with the slop. I use a pair of 5/8" bolts on each receiver. See my build thread for details.

They're pretty much required, otherwise the slop is pretty bad.

True receiver tube would be nice if you're willing to deal with the additional math from not having standard sized tubing.

 

[BukitCase]

"True receiver tube would be nice if you're willing to deal with the additional math from not having standard sized tubing."

True for things that .030" matters - most of my stuff is tractor/backhoe oriented these days (old/tired back, hydraulics is my favorite word :=) - in that world, 30 thou is "high precision". Plus, for some of my tinker toys even 1/4" wall can be marginal.

For more picky things, that's what mills are for... Steve

Oh, even with the true receiver tube I do the same as you - 11/16 annular cutter and 5/8 welded nut is also necessary when you want ZERO play on a bench insert - there are a few ways to get the slop out, but the one I'd prefer is too time consuming. Involves cutting the insert at a 45* OBLIQUE, welding a nut inside the inner piece, outer end with a drilled plate and a long 5/8 bolt to tighten the angled piece inside.

Works well, but I have too many "toys" to take that much time, probly won't live long enough :=))

 

[dr_clyde]

"True receiver tube would be nice if you're willing to deal with the additional math from not having standard sized tubing."

True for things that .030" matters - most of my stuff is tractor/backhoe oriented these days (old/tired back, hydraulics is my favorite word :=) - in that world, 30 thou is "high precision". Plus, for some of my tinker toys even 1/4" wall can be marginal.

For more picky things, that's what mills are for... Steve

Sometimes its hard to turn off the machinist mode. I think in smaller dimensions than most welders do.

Yeah. That's my excuse.

 

[BukitCase]

I've seen your work; I'll letcha know when you NEED an excuse :=))) ...Steve

 

[ATC]

Thanks for all the good tips! Whatever I use will get set screws regardless. I've even put set screws on a regular hitch before to get the slop out.

 

[tarmy]

I use 5/8” bolts...with a handle I weld on...use same size nut welded to drilled 3/4’’ hole in receiver tube...works great.