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What would you recommend with this garage build problem???

LeakyGarage

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Sep 15, 2014
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I had a garage built a little over a year ago. I'm not posting as my current user id to keep the exact company name out of it at this time. The basic specs on this garage are roughly 32x80x13. This is a metal garage that is 10' tall on top of a block wall that is approximately 3' tall. One company did/supplied everything for the build. This means from demolition of old site/concrete to completely new slab to completed metal garage with insulation, 8 2x3 windows, 1 man door and one 10x10 roll up door. Inside was not finished.

Several months after competition I noticed the building was leaking around the seam where the concrete meets the bottom of the building. This leaking is still going on today. The company has been contacted by phone and email numerous times. Most of the time I get “someone will be there tomorrow at 7am”. No one shows up. This has happened about 4-5 times. About 3-4 times, someone has shown up. They have covered the windows with caulk (did nothing to help). They have caulked the seams around the bottom of the building (did seem to help one area that no longer leaks). They have trimmed insulation around the bottom edge stating that is could be wicking water up into the inside from it (this is also the same area that no longer leaks). Sometimes one side of the building leaks during a rain but not the other, then the next rain the opposite side leaks. The back wall has never leaked and the front is covered.

Today the owner comes over again to look. Almost as soon as we start talking he says “I don't know what to do, if I can't fix it I'll just give you your money back and come and take it back”. I have paid 50% upon completion last year with 5yrs of payments setup. I have now paid 1 year of those, so 4 years left. About 2 months ago I told him that I was not paying anymore payments until it was fixed. This was after contacting him and being told again that someone would be there the next morning and it took 29 days for someone to show up and caulk some more.

I contacted the owner in writing last time that I did not want more caulk just covering everything that I wanted a permanent solution. Too which he never replied. My concern is not the money I have spent on the building if he wants to walk away, it is the THOUSANDS I have spent on the inside. This includes: wiring the complete garage (minus lighting), sealing the floor, painting/waterproofing the block wall, installing 3/4” plywood walls, additional insulation. I owe about $15k on the rest of the building. I have put over $7k into the building that would be completely lost if they refund my money and come get the building as is. This does not include any labor that I have put into it because I have done everything myself. Would I be able to make them pay me back for that also? Everything I installed would be worthless now. Plywood is cut and hung, electrical is cut mounted and operational. I don't want them to go this route but I don't want a building that leaks either. What about my garage they tore down, concrete slab they removed and the tree they cut down to install this garage. I don't think they can make us whole again or back to square one if they wanted to.

This also comes with the fact that I have not even mentioned to them the numerous cracks that have appeared in the concrete. I also have a few places where the clock wall cracks from the top to the bottom straight thru the middles of some of the blocks. I'll try to include pics of them because to me they aren't that bad, but I am no expert. They are bigger than hairline but they haven't seemed to get bigger in a year now, just more of them show up. Concrete is 4” 4000psi as was independently test as such. All items were done with permits, inspections and a written contract for payments. Everything is on the up and up. Nothing shady about any of it at this point. I don't believe they have spent 10 man hours working on my leaking since this started. That does not seem excessive to me at all for an almost $45k investment.

Today before leaving I asked the owner again about removing the bottom trim piece, removing 2 rows of bolts and installing a 12” flashing around the entire perimeter of the garage and he said “if the trim comes off I'll just take the building back and give you your money back”. This honestly seems like a ½ day job for 2 guys to do and maybe $100 in materials. I have no idea why he is going to this extreme so fast. These are the only calls I have made to them and all payments up until stopping them were on time and no issues either.

What would you recommend? What do you think of the pics? Any specific pics or info needed to help answer questions? I'm worried about wood damage and the hidden damage from possible rust.

Thanks

Leaky
 

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tlmartin84

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At a second glance, the J channel appears to be cut correctly from the outside. The issue I see is the ribs are cut that are tucked behind it. Exposing LARGE gaps at the sides of the window and J channel.
 
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rsanter

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visalia ca
You need to see an attorney
I would say if they take it bask then you should get back all you have put into it but they get all those materials.
I don't think you will get your labor.

Another option. Get someone else out there to look at it and give an option and opinion

Bob
 

dewalt378g

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Mar 17, 2012
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Totally agree with above. If these leaks are only under the windows, then I can bet it's the vertical parts of the J-channel that are allowing water behind the metal siding at the window sill height.
 

dewalt378g

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Pull some of that interior plywood off under the window and go outside and soak the window with a hose to confirm.....nothing to lose at this point..
 
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LeakyGarage

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The leaks are not just under the windows. Actually they seem to be almost between windows. I have taken down plywood to water for leaks and absolutely nothing ever came from around the windows, only around bottom seam of building. Even spraying with a garden hose for about 30 minutes straight around a windows showed no leaking.

Leaky
 
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LeakyGarage

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Also, now that electrical is ran completely around building, taking down the tongue & groove plywood is really going to be an issue. I just took pics of floor and block wall. Posting in a minute.

Leaky
 

ford33

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Wouldn't he need a court order to enter your property and touch the building? It is not possible they can tear it down with your belongings in the building. Perhaps he foreclose on it because you stopped payment and then take possession and have the sheriff team bring in a group to empty the building.

Maybe it is time to have someone else look at the issue and make a couple recommendations on a fix. If you present the possible resolutions to him and he fixes it then fine. If the problem persists, perhaps a cash settlement is in order and you can hire someone to fix it.
 
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LeakyGarage

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These are the cracks in the floor. Probably a couple hundred feet of them total.

Leaky
 

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LeakyGarage

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Inside view of block wall cracks.

Leaky
 

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LeakyGarage

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Outside view of cracks in block wall and foundation.

Leaky
 

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slip knot

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Its probably time to consult an attorney.

I would also get another metal building contractor to look it over and give an estimate for repairs. Metal buildings get built all the time, leaks can usually be fixed. Deduct the repairs off the cost owed for the building.

I dont understand why your original builder is so willing to bail?
 
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LeakyGarage

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I know that he can't just come and take it. I just want it fixed so it doesn't leak. I am worried about the concrete and block wall also. Even more so now that I took pics of it actually. I don't think that would be an easy fix at all.

I'm actually only 1 payment behind as the second is due later this week and I told him as soon as they try a fix other than caulk basically that I would pay both to get caught up. Not like I'm really far behind or anything.

Leaky
 
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LeakyGarage

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I have no idea why he jumped to that answer so fast either. He hasn't been here for 1 hour total in the I believe 4 visits he has made in a year. I am also less than 2 miles from his house and shop also. Not like I'm an hour away or anything. I've made exactly 2 requests listed in this email to him:

""employee 1" and another guy showed up tonight and put caulking around the other windows. As we discussed before and even found with the water spraying the water is coming in around the bottom of the building. Last time you mentioned unbolting the bottom of the panels and running a 12” piece of flashing completely around the building. I do believe this is what will stop this leaking. The only place it leaks is between the where the building meets the block foundation wall. I really don’t want to just keep putting more caulking around the windows as it is not a permanent solution and honestly doesn’t look that good. I would also like to ask to be notified before people just show up to work here. I just walked outside to find a truck in the driveway and they were over half done doing what they were doing. If I hadn’t walked outside I wouldn’t have even known they ever came. Please let me know about this flashing and I will update you when it rains again."

Leaky
 

BillK

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LG,
First of all, make the payments, no matter what. You have a contract that says you will do so and you have to do it. He can report it to the credit reporting companies and hurt your credit, he can foreclose on the building etc etc etc. MAKE THE PAYMENTS !

That being said, was this a purchased building or something the contractor made up himself ? If it was purchased from a company like Butler etc, have their representative come out and look at it and give you advice as to how to repair it.

Cant help you with the concrete, you need another concrete contractor to look at it.

Something just does not sound right about the builder just wanting to bail and give you your money back. Don't take this wrong but are we getting the whole story ?
 

Punchwood

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I'd be willing to wager that he is NOT willing to bail and come take the building back at all. He sees how much the owner has into this already and is using the "I'll come and take it down" as a scare tactic. He's hoping that by saying this that the owner will just fix it himself or live with it and leave him alone.

Just look at how much it would cost him to tear down and remove. It would make absolutely no sense whatsoever for him to do that. Did the owner's company do all of the work or were portions of it subbed out?
 

Piece-it Pete

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I agree with Punchwood. I'd at least tell him 'come and take it then, it's a cracked leaking piece of ****', or something along those lines that suit your temperament, and see what his reaction is.

Pete
 

wssix99

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LG,
First of all, make the payments, no matter what. You have a contract that says you will do so and you have to do it. He can report it to the credit reporting companies and hurt your credit, he can foreclose on the building etc etc etc. MAKE THE PAYMENTS !

+1 If you go against your agreement, you'll loose legal and moral standing to make him stand by his.

The second step I'd take is to get reputable contractors out and give you an estimate for the fixes. A good siding company can take care of your exterior leaks and your floor cracks are just shrinkage cracks. The block wall is the only piece I'd sweat about.

BTW - Do you have saw cut control joints in your floor?
 

Conner

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I'd be willing to wager that he is NOT willing to bail and come take the building back at all. He sees how much the owner has into this already and is using the "I'll come and take it down" as a scare tactic. He's hoping that by saying this that the owner will just fix it himself or live with it and leave him alone.

BINGO! The contractor is trying to get you to back down by bluffing that he will remove the building, knowing full well that you have invested money in the structure and have a lot to lose in that scenario.
 
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LeakyGarage

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I believe he was trying to bluff me also or just see what my reaction would be. I do have saw cuts in the floor at 15'x15'. They were cut within 18hrs of the finished pour.

It is definitely not condensation as there have never been any water inside on the ceiling or anywhere else. Only around the seam of the building/block wall getting soaked into the wood. This has also been confirmed with a garden hose.

They did come out today. As I was leaving for work a single guy was outside taking screws out of the building. He was later joined by at least 1 other guy. This is what I found when I came home:
 

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LeakyGarage

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It looks like they did a few different fixes depending on where you look. It looks like the installed some foam seal around the perimeter of the building. They put more caulking around the seams (or at least some of them). Then in a few they installed a large screw for some reason. It does look like they replaced a lot of the washers that they removed which I am happy about. The job doesn't look the best but as long as it stops the leaking I will be happy. I really wish they would have used less caulk and some white rivets as they did when they installed other parts of the building but I can redo that if this fixes the problem.

I did speak with a lawyer today also. He advised to see if today fixes the problem. If not he said to send a certified letter with what the problem is, the corrects I want made and a time frame to do them in or I would hire someone else to do them and take the money out of my payments and to request them to make a choice as to which they would prefer.

I hope to not have to go this route at all, but I am preparing for it.

Leaky
 

stingry

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Sometimes one side of the building leaks during a rain but not the other, then the next rain the opposite side leaks. The back wall has never leaked and the front is covered.
Leaky

This statement leads me to believe that wind driven rain may have something to do with your leaking. The bottom of your tin installation looks fine to me. I don't see how water could possibly get inside with the sheeting being lapped over the Z channel. What I believe may be happening is that water is getting into your walls due to the fact that your builder DID NOT use stitch screws!!
These are 1/2 - 5/8" screws that are driven into the seams where the panels overlap. Without them, there could be gaps between the panels, allowing rainwater in. See picture. The stitch screws are the ones on the vertical seam.

View media item 43319
Cheers
Steve
 

wssix99

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I do have saw cuts in the floor at 15'x15'.

Your cracks look like shrinkage cracking. If you didn't put reinforcing bar in the slab, 15 X 15 is too far apart. There's never any guarantee that this cracking will not occur, but a 10-12' spacing is usually what I see recommended.
 
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