Anyone know what is the best type of easy out to buy? I have used the type that looks like drill bits and the type that looks kind of like a chisel that you drive in with a hammer. Almost all the time they break, no matter what size I use. This time I need to remove a small 5/16" bolt from a cast mower transaxle. Any advice? Thanks
whats the best easy out?
- Thread starter mikec35
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toolman1967
Well-known member
I bought the new style easy out from Sears, kinda pricy for what it is but i can attest that the really work. You just drill in reverse and after the bit enters enough you screw in the removal tool easy.
I almost 100% convinced that easy outs were designed by some postal engineer with a evil plot to make all our lives harder.
The simple answer is an easy out is never the correct solution unless the nut was sheared off and is in fact not frozen by rust.
Welding a nut to the broken bolt seems to be the best way as it applies heat and if it fails you are not stuck drilling a super hard piece of steel back out of the hole you just drilled in a hard piece of steel
The simple answer is an easy out is never the correct solution unless the nut was sheared off and is in fact not frozen by rust.
Welding a nut to the broken bolt seems to be the best way as it applies heat and if it fails you are not stuck drilling a super hard piece of steel back out of the hole you just drilled in a hard piece of steel
SiGmA_X
Well-known member
100%. Easy outs have their time and place, but it's rare. A chisel and hammer, or welding a nut on is definitely a safer way. Or drill the threads out and re tap, or over size drill/tap.
Conductor562
Well-known member
EZ Outs work ok if the bolt isn't rusted in or crazy tight. The problem is that in most cases it's one of these 2 conditions that caused the bolt head to break off to begin with. I'm with Mofo, the welded nut method is the best.
Shadowdog500
Well-known member
I also agree that EZouts art for screws that aren't frozen. For most stuff I've had luck with a center punch. Just put a punch mark near the outer radius of the broken bolt face and use the center punch yo unscrew the bolt using the hole.
I've also had luck drilling the bolt out so only the threads remain. Just takes some practice.
Chris
I've also had luck drilling the bolt out so only the threads remain. Just takes some practice.
Chris
4Tigers
Well-known member
We used to charge $8.00 to drill out a broken stud at the machine shop If the customer broke an easy out off in the hole it startred at $50.00
Shadowdog500 has it right!
Shadowdog500 has it right!
devilsnight
Well-known member
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- Nov 4, 2012
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Easyouts have worked great for me over the years, mostly for exhaust studs broken off flush with the head. Automatic center punch, has to be dead center, drill straight and don't go too big! As for type, I've used the long and short spiral type (Most brands seem to be rebranded by the same company) but, the old school tapered square stock looking ones usually worked the best for me. Not sure what their given name is. Heat and penatrating oil work well if you can use them to your advantage. and take your time!!
skulldrinker
Well-known member
I broke a Snap-On spiral easy out in a hole. It snapped like a pretzel. Then drilled it out with a HF Cobalt drill bit.
darwyn
Well-known member
I use a dremel with a bit like thishttp://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pages/ToolDetail.aspx?pid=7103 to start a hole. That bit won't walk on uneven surfaces.
Rural53
Well-known member
Always drill the hole for with your easyout with a left hand drill bit. Particularly in cast aluminium, 90% of the time the bolt/stud will spin out while being drilled.
Exlax for starters....
Any set that uses a left hand drill bits, usually removes brokens while drilling.
Really, the most important aspect of removing broken bolts or studs is the centering of the pilot hole in the broken fixture. Even a little bit off center and you greatly increase the difficulty in removing the broken object. Take your time centering and it will save you time and anger, more broken fixtures and really screwing up a part or and a tool or two. Example.. a 2x4, 8' long....try picking it up from the end, now from the middle...so much easier yes? same principle (kinda) as centering the pilot hole..it is 90% of the job so do it right..center it. They do make a tool for centering of a hole on a pattern, it is like a punch but of the size of the hole with a small *** on the end..place it in the hole and tap with a hammer almost perfectly marking the center of broken bolt (if not to jagged) if it is you need to smooth off the broken bolt so your able to mark it at center. Then get a good punch mark and start your drilling, slowly and aligned. Use a releasing agent or wd40. Most of the time, the drilling does the job without using the ez out.......
IF THE DRILL IS CENTERED ON THE BROKEN ITEM>>IN THE MIDDLE>>DEAD CENTER...the rest is easy..if your centered.
I'm not sure if I used the same ones as you but the first one I used, broke. I took the rest of them in put them back in the tool box, probably never to be used again.
I have the following Irwin set, and have been using it for the last 3 years. They are fantastic. I have used them quite a few times. You need to get a good centered hole drilled, use a little rust buster, and sometimes a little heat. I just removed a broken bolt out of a friends engine two nights ago. It took a little patience, but these have never failed me. And by the way, I have about 5 other different sets, and they are all junk.
http://www.irwin.com/tools/screw-bo...screw-extractors-532-series-plastic-case-sets
http://www.irwin.com/tools/screw-bo...screw-extractors-532-series-plastic-case-sets
skulldrinker
Well-known member
Thanks, For $25 I put it on my amazon wish list. Maybe the stubbyness of them helps against snapping.