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What's the torx and hex combination socket called?

rancherbill

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In (Family Guy) Consuela's voice: Noooo... noooo. nooooooooo..... Mr. Bezos no ship home.
This item cannot be shipped to your selected delivery location. Please choose a different delivery location.
The OP was in Germany and I showed him German Amazon.

They will ship in Germany. haha just a little detail. I normally trip on this type of detail. Amazon in Germany, Japan and the UK will say they ship some stuff to Canada and probably the US. I think the Wiha or Wera can come from Germany
 
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Al Borland

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I've always just used a T27 screwdriver on mine. Your hand doesn't have the strength to twist off a T27 with a screwdriver handle, and if you really need to use a wrench on it, then get the proper wrench or socket. So long as you keep the threads greasy and only tighten it with the screwdriver, it won't get stuck.

But the RIGHT answer is to drill out that torx recess, tap it for a grease zerk, and never remove that stupid bolt again.
^^^This Right Here!^^^
 

dnschmidt

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Learned something new today, Guessing most of my gold ones are worn out from being used on an impact.
What you're talking about is what the industry refers to as TORX ALIGN. Check McMaster-Carr and you will see. It's not something unique to Snap-On.
 

shawhite

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After reading thru this thread I had to go out and try to remove the plug on my 15 year old stihl kombi attachment. I used the supplied scrench and it broke free with very little effort. I have not serviced this head ever and it has 15years of residential usage on it. I wonder if the OP bolt is cross threaded.
 

f121

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Is this a bolt you’re supposed to remove regularly? I’ve definitely never done so.

I can’t help but think if Sthil expected me to grease that regularly, it would have a zerk (grease ******). Maybe a mod for the OP would be to drill out the torx, tap it and screw in a grease fitting.
 

DAustin

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A few months ago I saw one and thought it was something new, but today out of the blue it struck me that our Stihl weed eater's greasing port uses such a bolt. I thought it was a use whichever tool you prefer type a few years ago, but my brain suddenly managed to add 1+1 today after remembering that special socket. The torx size is clearly too small (it gets stuck due to the heat and the torx bits usually bend or break) and the 1/2 hex likes to round with time (using a 12 point SAE wrench, the only SAE size I ever bought). I'm not talking about 5/16 or 10 mm sockets with torx bit inserts. I'm talking about a socket that also has a recessed torx driver inside. No matter how I search I can't find it. All I get is bit sockets.

Edit: here's a sample image:
1663856233279.png
TEX?
 

rlitman

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Is this a bolt you’re supposed to remove regularly? I’ve definitely never done so.

I can’t help but think if Sthil expected me to grease that regularly, it would have a zerk (grease ******). Maybe a mod for the OP would be to drill out the torx, tap it and screw in a grease fitting.
Re-read your manual. I grease mine seasonally. Stihl sells grease in overpriced (but super convenient) tubes where you unscrew the cap and thread the tube directly into that hole to easily add a little grease. I bought my trimmer in 2006 with a tube of grease, and it's still nearly half full.

pt_5_mehrzweckfett_header_230x142_rdax_65.jpg
 

ChevyEFI

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Cal-Van Versa-Drive might let you do that double engagement.
 

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dukefx

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After reading thru this thread I had to go out and try to remove the plug on my 15 year old stihl kombi attachment. I used the supplied scrench and it broke free with very little effort. I have not serviced this head ever and it has 15years of residential usage on it. I wonder if the OP bolt is cross threaded.
No idea what model you have, as a matter of fact neither do I right now, but it's the only 4 stroke variant Stihl has to offer. It's a beast and quite a bit heavier than most.

Re-read your manual. I grease mine seasonally. Stihl sells grease in overpriced (but super convenient) tubes where you unscrew the cap and thread the tube directly into that hole to easily add a little grease. I bought my trimmer in 2006 with a tube of grease, and it's still nearly half full.

pt_5_mehrzweckfett_header_230x142_rdax_65.jpg
The trick is to grease it between each use but never fill it to the top. Too much and it'll get as hot as with no grease at all.

Cal-Van Versa-Drive might let you do that double engagement.
It's def. not the one I saw but it might do the trick if bit height and torx orientation match. The one I saw was a 1 piece black socket.

Meanwhile I was thinking about simply taking a 12.9 bolt with a 13 mm head, cut it to length and use that. I doubt it has an irregular thread. I'd have to replace that... lets see... never! On top of that it'd be metric and I have sockets for that.
 

rlitman

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...The trick is to grease it between each use but never fill it to the top. Too much and it'll get as hot as with no grease at all...
Greasing every use is still way too much unless you're spinning the head 10 hours a day. Eventually all the excess grease will work is way up your tube and bog the shaft down.

Anyway look at all the competition. All the commercial units EXCEPT Stihl have standard grease fittings. Stihl has their proprietary tube so they can sell you grease.
 

RedneckWelder

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Get a Snap On or other quality T27...But NOT the gold Snap On, they are oversize tapered meant for messed up heads.
They are square cut on the end to seat a little better instead the the very slight dome as most Torx have.

I have both the regular and gold torx at work and use the gold ones daily with the regular as a backup for when the gold ones break.
 

hoston23

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1) Why would Stihl, a German company, use a 1/2" headed bolt? Are you certain it's not Metric?
2) If a twelve point rounds off the bolt use a six point.
3) Go to Stihl and ask them what they use. They might have a special tool if it's that big of a deal.
Some of Stihl is made in North america and uses some standard hardware. Mainly the large commercial items are made in germany.
 

qqzj

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1 use a pass thru socket ratchet and a torx bit at the same time. 6 point and more leverage than a small wrench

2 Astro pneumatic nano sockets have very little chamfer. Grab more of the bolt
 

Junkdrawer Dog

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But I wouldn't bet that Stihl holds the timing of the torx broach to the hex to any particular orientation. Without that you can't have a special socket.
This^^^^^ I'm pretty sure that bolt is designed for either/or use. Crack it loose with wrench, run it out with a Torx driver.
 

nbpt100

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Greasing every use is still way too much unless you're spinning the head 10 hours a day. Eventually all the excess grease will work is way up your tube and bog the shaft down.

Anyway look at all the competition. All the commercial units EXCEPT Stihl have standard grease fittings. Stihl has their proprietary tube so they can sell you grease.
Yes indeed with commercial grade trimmers.
Sthil now also makes home owner grade equipment. If you keep greasing the gear box through the zerk fittings you should see some ooze out the seals. If you over do it you may blow the seals. The Home owner stuff does not have any recommended maintenance for the gear heads. But if you want it to last you will open it up every few years and clean out the old grease and replace it. They do run hot as heck. I have used some that get so hot you can burn yourself. ouch!!!!

Like the gear box on a home owner grade self propelled mower. No maintenance is ever recomended. I have had loud ones on older machines and opned them up to look and see. The grease is mostly dried. I wipe it away as best i can and replace with something not too tacky. Usually quiets it down. I let a bit of motor oil seep into the bronze bearing/shaft area. When the bearing wear too much the gears do not mesch well and that is what damages them 1st. In my humble experience. I think the string trimmers all use ball bearings so they last much longer. If you open one up you want to make sure grease gets into the race and balls. If you find and play in one you want to replace one or both or your will damage the gears.

Yes, you are above average if you own any Torx drivers. So true! Some people have them in a bit set and they have no idea what they are. All they use is the philips and straight bits. Maybe a hex now and then.
 

nbpt100

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Cal-Van Versa-Drive might let you do that double engagement.
That is a convenience tool allowing you to use one or the other attachment. You can try using both but the hex and the teeth on the torx would have to be perfectly aligned to that on the fastener. I doubt each fasterner is aligned in the same orientation as well. Not to mention the heights have to be correct for both tools to have good engagement.

I honestly do not see much value in it. First of all the square is weakened by being hollowed out. 2nd the square adds extra bulk that may make it harder to get into a tighter space.


Much better options out there with quick change features.

Spend you money on good quality bits.
 

Wakefield

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It shouldn't be super tight and I don't think you have to mess with it when it's hot from use.
The torx end of the scrench that came with the string driver that comes with the FS 130 Stuka fits that,I think it is T27 . My grease plug is some kind of rubbery plastic. Don't remember whether my sickle bar/hedge cutter that mounts on the power unit attachment has one of those plugs.
neither of the two hex ends on the scrench fit the outside of the plug.
instruction says to check it every 25 hours of running which would probably be about 2 years for a homeowner,only if no grease can be seen put up to 1/5 oz. from the Stihl grease toothpaste tube in but don't "completely fill the gear housing with grease."
might be a good idea to clean the area and the torx hole in the plug before trying to get it off--don't want grass crud to get in there and also torx in general get stuff in the hole ,then people don't get the driver in deep enough and they wallow the hole out.

One main thing to remember about using that bad boy (much noisier than the little homeowner weedeater) is that if you put that heavy sicklebar thing in place of the string head/gearbox,you need to reposition the handle,otherwise you beat your arms to death working against the weight of the thing.
now I am curious about the hex size that fits the outside of the plug but will wait until daylight and maybe try --one of the oddball obsolete 32" inch fractional size sockets?---------------
--------it's a sloppy 1/2" (12 mm. is too small) ,if the torx wallowed out my guess is a pliers wrench would take it off or a 1/2" socket in 6 point-would not trust it not to round with the 12 point wrench or socket
 
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