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What's your Crimper

mobiledynamics

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I'm trashing out my entire lot of various terminals. It's all a mixed bag. All done with a T&B ratcheting crimper with the correct dies.

Starting FRESH with a *systems approach* - tooling and terminals and dies

I'm curious. What's your crimper setup.....tooling, insulated, or do you prefer bare and then HS, etc.

I can't recall the manuf, but just short of Paladin, there is 1 manuf. who makes the tooling for T&B, Xcelite, etc on the ratcheting crimpers..
 
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enrare

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Not sure if this helps or not but might take a look at a Waytecwire.com. They have a lot of different terminals, connectors, specialized connectors like delphi packard, all sorts of crimpers and specialized tools, etc.
 

ChevyEFI

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I needed to pick up a tool to do metri-pack 150 stuff on a car wiring project. I could never tell whether the jaws I saw would fit the (previous design) MSD crimper I already owned (that's just like a lot of others) so I looked at the Kent-Moore for over $100 or the knockoff for $30 and went with the knock-off. Since I don't do wiring stuff regularly, it was a matter of looking through Delphi catalog, then other resources and finally figuring out there were two terminal sizes. Kind of a pain. So I think I get what you're saying about "mixed bag" and can understand that some real organization would be so nice.
 

Fastbird

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Not sure if this helps or not but might take a look at a Waytecwire.com. They have a lot of different terminals, connectors, specialized connectors like delphi packard, all sorts of crimpers and specialized tools, etc.

Bingo.

I have their 560 Crimper Frames and a few of the Dies.....best investment I've made for doing automotive electrical stuff. They're a dream to use each and every time I've used them.

http://www.waytekwire.com/item/560/CRIMP-TOOL-W-INTERCHANGEABLE/
 

transittech

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Feb 27, 2012
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Delphi/Packard ratcheting crimpers for weatherpack. Absolutely the bees knees.

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Snap On pwcs7 for almost everything else.
 

JASTECH

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Are you talking about the 12vdc wire terminals like from 3M and Calterm that come in PVC, Nylon and Non-Insulated? I have crimped God knows how many and never heard or seen a "Ratcheting" crimper for them. Just squeeze them with my Beldon's by hand. Use to do it with pliers or screwdriver & hammer before that, lol
 

nanofrog

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Pressmaster is the main company that ODM's the ratcheting crimp tools for T&B, TE Connectivity (TYCO), Xcelite, 3M, Molex, Emerson, and others (major terminal makers). Made in Sweden, not Taiwan or China, if that's important to you.

I'd skip Paladin or Ideal (Ideal owns Paladin), Pros Kit or similar (Asian made), as they're hit-or-miss in regard to QC from what I've seen and heard.

I have the Pressmaster Multi Crimp Tool, which uses interchangeable dies (BTW, this is what the waytek 560 is). Upside, is it's a good quality tool that's not as expensive as individual units (i.e. can get a die + frame for under $100, and add dies as needed). Downside, is there aren't any locators available, so you need a bit more skill to locate the terminals correctly.

Rennsteig has an interchangeable system that can also be fitted with locators, but it's quite expensive (die + locator is very similar to an entire separate tool of good quality, such as Pressmaster).

As per what terminals to use and where, that depends on what you're doing.

For example, if you need a **** splice, the best way to go about it for automotive use is to get a non-insulated terminal and use adhesive lined heat shrink over the completed connection (seals out moisture and also provides strain relief for the wire).

If you need female spades and it's in the interior for example, then use open barrel types (crimps both the exposed wire and the wire insulation for strain relief).

Hope this helps. :)
 

mrjaw14

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I have a set of Kliens that do ins and non ins. channellock makes one almost identical except the ins/non-is are reversed. Prior to that I was using linesmans pliers and were tearing the terminals up. The Klien tool ismuch much better. I'll probable get some ins and non ins dies for my ratcheting network crimper, but you can't get those in tight places depending on where your work piece is.

http://www.homedepot.com/buy/klein-...on-insulated-insulated-1005.html#.UNh8VvlKifg
 

JASTECH

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Mrjaw, I have a pair like you linked to but with blue handles, not sure the brand but was purchased many years ago. I do some crimping making harness for 4x4's or tractors ect. that I still use crimper linked to or the standard if you will multi crimper/stripper by Beldon, Calterm 20 yrs. old that I keep in my travel electrical bag for truck & trailer. As mentioned, under dash's I would not have room for them big ratchet crimpers. If need be I will use ins-terms but only nylon not them pvc ones that crack or slip later that may cause a short. If possible I like to solder non-ins and use dbl wal heat shrink on them. I did buy and use a ratchet crimper as you call them for satalite cable connectors as there were thousands to do and don't think my hand and pliers would do it.
 

jeffmoss26

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Ideal does not own Paladin, Greenlee does.
I use Channellock or Klein crimpers for insulated terminals, depending on which set of tools is with me. I've also got a pair of T&B sta-kon crimpers.
My two ratcheting crimpers are set up for coax connectors and 8 pin modular plugs.
I also have two different compression tools for the newer style coax.
 

dirtydogintex

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inner looper-3rd Div Houston w & n
22-10 awg wire range?
T&B Sta-Kon WT145C ratchet hand tool (Shure-Stake mechanism almost idiot-proofs things)
with
T&B RA, RB, RC, RAA, RBB, RCC, RBC nylon & vinyl terminals, disconnects & splices

Closest I've seen to working each time, every time.
 
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JASTECH

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Jeff, Your the same as me then on the automotive style connectors useing the standard crimpers. Do you use/like the non-ins connectors then solder & dbl HS them? The main problem this causes me is when wires are under dash, then I can't HS them. I have a C'man butane pencile torch (if called that) and think it has the 3/4 curve adapter for HS. Never used tried it yet do to when filled with butane it's empty when needed, so a butane leak is not safe when fire is around. I wonder if they will ever make a little electric rechargeable pencile torch?
 
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mobiledynamics

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HOLY Schnizzle. Been looking at terminal crimper kits/dies online today.
TERMINAL kit overload..can't decide or even come up with a TOP 3 yet
 

JASTECH

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Jeff, Do you still HS the crimped connectors? I try to HS all my connectors. All the engine compartment and "outside" passenger compartment connections I try to keep dbl wall HS for as it may get abused via enviroment. Keeping a few colours and clear helps to identify circuits. Just the way I like to do things, maybe goofy? over doing it?
 

jeffmoss26

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None of my stuff is automotive, so I do not use heat shrink. It's all indoors in the back of equipment racks and such.
If I was doing stuff in cars, then I would shrink them for sure.
 

skruft

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I use different crimpers but most often a T&B ratchet type of one model or another if I can reach easily with one. It helps to put the terminal in the crimper first, then the wire. If I can't maneuver the ratchet crimper I use the kind that looks like a big diagonal pliers.

I don't think heat shrink is usually necessary, except that sometimes I have to work in tiny places where there is no room for anything but solder and heat shrink. Also it does look better where appearance counts. I do it with a heat gun when possible. I found at a flea market about a thousand **** connector "kits" with the connectors and heat shrink cut to length, in little plastic bags. These are very convenient.
 
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mobiledynamics

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As per what terminals to use and where, that depends on what you're doing.

For example, if you need a **** splice, the best way to go about it for automotive use is to get a non-insulated terminal and use adhesive lined heat shrink over the completed connection (seals out moisture and also provides strain relief for the wire).


I've gotta try out different systems.
For **** splices. I do like the Permaseals I've been using. Insulate Heatshrink. Not sure what material it is though. Does not feel like Nylon....
 
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mobiledynamics

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T100 -

Gotta sat, that AMP looks like a Manual.

I gotta say, yeag, sometimes I'll use a manual as it's a tight spot, depending on what connector I'm using, I'll want to release it a bit even though I *engaged it* - and a ratcheting one just one let me do it. It's all or nothing once your start...
 

t100

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I use both AMP and T&B in the picture.

T&B is more for under the dash and tight spots and track side field repair.

AMP is a ratcheting crimper, as I was told it's more reliable than the "plier" type crimpers because it will not over or under tighten. it also squeezes the plastic isolator to form a hosel.
 

Youngblood77

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Feb 24, 2011
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My everyday goto crimpers are a pair of $22 Channel Lock 909's.......solid, almost flawless everytime.

For weatherpac and deutsch terminal work, I reach for my Mac Tools TCT1028 crimpers. With 5 different sizes to work with, I never need another tool for assembly.
Quite honestly, the only times I've ever had less than pleasurable results, it's been "operator malfunction"
LOL
 
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mobiledynamics

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As I put more thought into things I hate or not....

What insulated heat shrink terminals / tooling works .
My T&B work OK with the Molex Perma Seal HS terminals. Sometimes I find I will go over it was a hand too afterwards before I take the heat to it...
 
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rshadd

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Dec 29, 2009
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Doylestown, PA
My vintage "Shure Stake" by STA-KON Hand Tools (WT-145) makes nice crimps on red, blue and yellow terminal connections.

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My ratcheting crimpers are made by Shattuck Industries (shown with RG58 & 59 dies).

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kythri

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Lebanon, OR
I've got:

Channellock 909
Panduit CT-260

Love them both, but they're both manual crimpers. Some of the nice ratcheting stuff that I've seen in this thread would be sweet as hell.
 

Mastermind

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Jun 28, 2012
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Ypsilanti, MI
i went on a spree on the snappy truck a few yrs back, bought about everything but ratcheting crimpers. now i want a pair. thanx guys. those all live in the electrical box, i got a green handle set of the pwcs7's in the plier drawer for the occasional quikie.

on a side note, while we're on auto electrical connectors, i got a blue point battery terminal crimper, its a cast iron frame with an anvil you strike with a hammer or put it in a vice. that thing has paid for itself tenfold. installed alot of stereo systems and fixed alot of welding leads over the years.
 

t100

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My vintage "Shure Stake" by STA-KON Hand Tools (WT-145) makes nice crimps on red, blue and yellow terminal connections.

8312100211_83e27464f4_z.jpg

I have a pristine WT144, all original, never been used. check out the inspection sticker date.

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