Whats your favorite 'unique' tool?
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crocket468
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gayler
Well-known member
Leather worker?
TOTO
Well-known member
Here are 2 that I don't use much but couldn't live without. The first is one of the few Snap On tools I own. A set of collet style stud installer/Removers. The other is a Sioux air tapping gun. I use it mostly for chasing threads in engine blocks.
pizza
Well-known member
cool thread! thanks especially to everyone who actually made an effort to post pictures and explain what the tool is and what it's for.
my favorites i saw:
i'd love to have one someday, but since it's 50 bucks, i'll hold off until the day i actually need it.
sweet! i'll totally buy one if i ever have to do a lot of through hole assembly again.
haha. i saw those on toolguyd once and resisted the temptation, but seeing them here again now, i couldn't resist. ordered!
what is it? i thought it was a lockpick at first, but it doesn't look like it. low res image.
holy ****, a JBC!! the rolls-royce of soldering stations! that would be my favorite too if i had one. i get by with my aoyue cartridge element-tip station. cheap but good enough for my needs. still, i wish the damn thing would break so i'd be tempted to get a JBC.
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i'll post a couple that i use almost daily. maybe not super unique or specialized, but i actually think they're tools that everyone could benefit greatly from having:
a good headlamp: zebralight H600w Mk IV !
who wouldn't benefit from hands free light? i use this thing for everything. i sincerely believe that everyone should have one.
http://www.zebralight.com/H600w-Mk-IV-18650-XHP35-Neutral-White-Headlamp_p_215.html
zebralight is my favorite flashlight maker. a bit pricey, but excellent build quality, user interface, and LED driver efficiency. these thoughts mirror my own: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/59968
their headlamps are nice because they have insane battery life, high output, are not too bulky, and the light can be easily removed from the headband to keep in your pocket if you want.
and as for why the H600w specifically? i've played with most of their headlamps in person, and it's my favorite overall because of the narrower hotspot (less floody). i mostly use it to illuminate what i'm looking directly at, and having it more focused lets me use less battery.
impulse sealer
this lives on my kitchen counter. i use it to seal and reseal all kinds of bags. not just bags of food. the 'standard' seal width on these is 2mm. this is fine for most things honestly, and i used a 2mm one for about 10 years, but if you can spring for a 5-10mm one, you'd be better off. wider seal width lets you seal thicker things with more layers and more irregularities. they can be harder to find in 120V though (2mm is easy to find). i keep a 12" x 8mm one on my counter now.
here are some options:
https://www.clearbags.com/8-hand-sealer-10mm-seal-1-piece-hs8b.html
https://stockpkg.com/replacement-parts-kit-for-impulse-hand-sealer-heavy-duty-10mm-seal/
the 2mm ones can be had for much cheaper (probably like 30 bucks). there's no good reason why the 5-10mm ones are so much more expensive. just more of a specialty tool i guess. it's dumb.
my favorites i saw:
i'd love to have one someday, but since it's 50 bucks, i'll hold off until the day i actually need it.
sweet! i'll totally buy one if i ever have to do a lot of through hole assembly again.
haha. i saw those on toolguyd once and resisted the temptation, but seeing them here again now, i couldn't resist. ordered!
what is it? i thought it was a lockpick at first, but it doesn't look like it. low res image.
holy ****, a JBC!! the rolls-royce of soldering stations! that would be my favorite too if i had one. i get by with my aoyue cartridge element-tip station. cheap but good enough for my needs. still, i wish the damn thing would break so i'd be tempted to get a JBC.
-----
i'll post a couple that i use almost daily. maybe not super unique or specialized, but i actually think they're tools that everyone could benefit greatly from having:
a good headlamp: zebralight H600w Mk IV !
who wouldn't benefit from hands free light? i use this thing for everything. i sincerely believe that everyone should have one.
http://www.zebralight.com/H600w-Mk-IV-18650-XHP35-Neutral-White-Headlamp_p_215.html
zebralight is my favorite flashlight maker. a bit pricey, but excellent build quality, user interface, and LED driver efficiency. these thoughts mirror my own: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/59968
their headlamps are nice because they have insane battery life, high output, are not too bulky, and the light can be easily removed from the headband to keep in your pocket if you want.
and as for why the H600w specifically? i've played with most of their headlamps in person, and it's my favorite overall because of the narrower hotspot (less floody). i mostly use it to illuminate what i'm looking directly at, and having it more focused lets me use less battery.
impulse sealer
this lives on my kitchen counter. i use it to seal and reseal all kinds of bags. not just bags of food. the 'standard' seal width on these is 2mm. this is fine for most things honestly, and i used a 2mm one for about 10 years, but if you can spring for a 5-10mm one, you'd be better off. wider seal width lets you seal thicker things with more layers and more irregularities. they can be harder to find in 120V though (2mm is easy to find). i keep a 12" x 8mm one on my counter now.
here are some options:
https://www.clearbags.com/8-hand-sealer-10mm-seal-1-piece-hs8b.html
https://stockpkg.com/replacement-parts-kit-for-impulse-hand-sealer-heavy-duty-10mm-seal/
the 2mm ones can be had for much cheaper (probably like 30 bucks). there's no good reason why the 5-10mm ones are so much more expensive. just more of a specialty tool i guess. it's dumb.
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Bogdan M.
Well-known member
ZRX61
Well-known member
pizza
Well-known member
ok, but what is it? what's it for?
ZRX61
Well-known member
Mine? Adjusting the valve clearance on P&W R2800's etc.ok, but what is it? what's it for?
Bighead38
Well-known member
I ordered them from him but he cancelled the order.
Indy125
Well-known member
I use these a ton, not for surgery Actually thinking about getting longer ones too!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0066DSTOE/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Actually thinking about getting longer ones too!https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0066DSTOE/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Shadowdog500
Well-known member
I use these a ton, not for surgery
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0066DSTOE/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Thanks for the link. Just bought one.
I have several pairs of forceps of varying sizes in my shop. They are extremely handy to have around.
Shadowdog500
Well-known member
Wonder if he ran out of them after the surge of sales caused by this thread.
Bighead38
Well-known member
That’s what I was thinking. Should have updated his website or communicated better though.
I ordered it because of your thread and it's really useful. Thank you!
They really come in useful in so many situations.
I use these a ton, not for surgery
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0066DSTOE/?tag=atomicindus08-20
These are great! They are so much better then tweezers in most applications. They are however limited in grip; unless you move up to the real pro stuff.
Consider getting a set of 'Laparoscopic' forceps. You can get an assortment of ends, high levels of grip, and you can rotate the shaft relative to where you're griping via the thumb adjuster:
The European or US made ones are crazy expensive, but there seems to be good options out of India (new) via Ebay.
TalonFE
Well-known member
Pittsburgh (Gasp!!) SKU#98484
3/8 in. Drive T-Bar With Flexible Ratchet....with a 3/8-to-1/4 adaptor and a 10mm socket attached saved me quite a few times. The roto-head at the end makes it all possible.
3/8 in. Drive T-Bar With Flexible Ratchet....with a 3/8-to-1/4 adaptor and a 10mm socket attached saved me quite a few times. The roto-head at the end makes it all possible.
Shadowdog500
Well-known member
I bought one of those in 3/8” when it first came out and it really saved my bacon a couple of times getting to impossible to reach bolts.
I have the Merry HS175 and it's great when there's room to use it. I've had multiple times where it won't fit - no fault of the tool.
My favorite is the Lisle 63250 oil filter tool. They make a larger size also. The 63250 is probably all you need unless you work on huge engines. No need for the cup sockets. It works fantastic and is a bargain.
Runner ups are
Proto 251G snap ring pliers for manual transmission rebuilds. Wilde probably makes these and has a similar model
Lisle seal puller 58430
My favorite is the Lisle 63250 oil filter tool. They make a larger size also. The 63250 is probably all you need unless you work on huge engines. No need for the cup sockets. It works fantastic and is a bargain.
Runner ups are
Proto 251G snap ring pliers for manual transmission rebuilds. Wilde probably makes these and has a similar model
Lisle seal puller 58430
Since the 'fingers' are removable, it would be cool to make some extra long ones.
driftpin
Well-known member
Plenty of good tools here to consider. Sorry, no pics of what is described, below.
I have several different long-reach pin-nose pliers for removing internal snap-rings on vintage master cylinders. I recently bought a set from Astro, as you can never-have too-many tools, right? I've also made-do with a strong pick, to remove one end of the snap ring from its grooved land and then worked-around the perimeter of the snap ring to remove it. Having a dedicated set of pliers is definitely the way to go. Quicker, easier, less-frustrating.
I also made a tool for removing the piston in old Honda SOHC engines' front brake master cylinders, it works like a charm, and it's never been defeated. It was written-up in Cafe' Racer magazine last year.
A tip on honing the master cylinder bores after the piston has been dislodged/removed: I use a 3/8" long socket extension with (usually) wet or dry sandpaper wrapped-around it and one of those HFT hex-to-3/8" square-drive adapters chucked-into a drill, to ream-out the master cylinder bore. Remove the sandpaper and blow-out the debris from the bore, and wipe off the crud from the sandpaper, re-insert, and ream again. Two minutes of work should have that bore clean as it's gonna-get.
The other think I like to use, which is a big time-saver, is a ~60 ml syringe and a short piece of 1/4" I.D. clear plastic tubing, I use to reverse-bleed hydraulic brake and clutch systems on my bikes. I don't have any ABS-equipped bikes, so those of you who do, disregard this post, and this technique, as some have voiced the opinion you could render ineffective the ABS due-to migration of brake fluid debris in-suspension into the valving.
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jgromada
Well-known member
Got a pair of Utica. Better than those Vampliers people rave about.
bwringer
Well-known member
You know, I've often wondered whether that goofy-*** thing is actually useful.
Thanks for clearing up the mystery!
RedneckWelder
Well-known member
OTC 1/2” drive oil filter band wrenches for heavy equipment/large Diesel engines
Box end torque adapters
Slide sledge
Box end torque adapters
Slide sledge
Not super-unique, but wouldn't want to try to change the spark plugs on my boxer-engine Subaru without these -- barely any room between the plugs and the frame rail:
View media item 100591
https://www.gearwrench.com/gearwren...e-6-point-magnetic-swivel-spark-plug-set.html
Edit: Initially I posted the 5-piece set but actually I have the 3-piece set, and that's enough, at least for a 2009 STi; I think I used all three too. While I was looking for the pictures I came across some posts that said you have to raise the engine 5 inches to change the rear plugs in a BRZ - lol, note to self don't ever get one of those.
View media item 100591
https://www.gearwrench.com/gearwren...e-6-point-magnetic-swivel-spark-plug-set.html
Edit: Initially I posted the 5-piece set but actually I have the 3-piece set, and that's enough, at least for a 2009 STi; I think I used all three too. While I was looking for the pictures I came across some posts that said you have to raise the engine 5 inches to change the rear plugs in a BRZ - lol, note to self don't ever get one of those.
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bwringer
Well-known member
I have an enormous, heavy, extremely crude, evil, and ugly slide hammer bought on clearance from Harbor Freight aeons ago, back before anything they sold was acceptable.
The only positive thing you can say about it is that it's incredibly heavy. The slidey bit is at least 20 pounds, maybe more.
But when you're out of options, and your more graceful slide hammers have failed... Big Ugly Nasty will get results. Hopefully the results you wanted, but it WILL end the suspense. Part A will depart part B, one way or the other.
When it absolutely, positively needs a mighty, Mjolnir-esque, sundering thwack, it's the right tool for the job.
Speaking of mighty thwackers, I also have a huge copper hammer I inherited from my Dad. It was just lying under a bunch of assorted **** is his driveway. This hideous thing has been incredibly useful for applying large forces without marring steel parts. And I had no idea I needed such a thing until I ended up with it and started using it.
The only positive thing you can say about it is that it's incredibly heavy. The slidey bit is at least 20 pounds, maybe more.
But when you're out of options, and your more graceful slide hammers have failed... Big Ugly Nasty will get results. Hopefully the results you wanted, but it WILL end the suspense. Part A will depart part B, one way or the other.
When it absolutely, positively needs a mighty, Mjolnir-esque, sundering thwack, it's the right tool for the job.
Speaking of mighty thwackers, I also have a huge copper hammer I inherited from my Dad. It was just lying under a bunch of assorted **** is his driveway. This hideous thing has been incredibly useful for applying large forces without marring steel parts. And I had no idea I needed such a thing until I ended up with it and started using it.
RedneckWelder
Well-known member
I thought of more
I don’t like the using part of it but a thermal lance removes seized pins on heavy equipment easily.
A forklift is incredibly versatile we have a pin pusher for ours that slides over one fork and is used for slamming out bucket pins. Beats the hell out of getting sweaty and tired. Plenty of other uses for the forklift too.
An assortment of lever chain hoists make life a thousand times easier. Endless uses, if you are creative at rigging.
I don’t like the using part of it but a thermal lance removes seized pins on heavy equipment easily.
A forklift is incredibly versatile we have a pin pusher for ours that slides over one fork and is used for slamming out bucket pins. Beats the hell out of getting sweaty and tired. Plenty of other uses for the forklift too.
An assortment of lever chain hoists make life a thousand times easier. Endless uses, if you are creative at rigging.
Bogdan M.
Well-known member
They really come in useful in so many situations.
They really do.
jayrush13
Well-known member
Wire nut spinner. Really saves your fingers when you are doing a lot of makeup on boxes
View media item 7032
View media item 7032
Lassen Forge
Well-known member
For me it was (and is) a flashlight - specifically the Streamlight Night-Com UV. all LED, has 2 brightness levels, and a UV LED, all of which (when the batteries are fresh) throw light a long ways. It's not as small as a pencil light, but sits unobtrusively in the pocket of a pair of levis, and recently I modified the "pen" pocket of my work shirts to fit this thing. Ever chase coolant leaks with a UV dye? Nothing like having that UV light (with the twist of the selector knob) at your fingertips.
Turns out they're a pretty preferred light for cop and security work as well... they have a "safety" feature so hitting the button at the **** end won't turn the light on. Kinda nice to keep you from leaving the thing on and running out your 2x123 cell batteries.
I just found out about these, I was hesitant about pulling the trigger on one, as they're pretty spendy for what they do... until I ended up doing a few days of electrical troubleshooting on a few Japanese and Korean cars... I'm still waiting on it (they're were a month out on delivery), but jeez, EVERYONE swears by these things.
It's been sitting here for 2 months... how much later??
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Honda guy
Well-known member
You got my interest. Do you mind sharing a picture or description?
driftpin
Well-known member
driftpin wrote:
I also made a tool for removing the piston in old Honda SOHC engines' front brake master cylinders, it works like a charm, and it's never been defeated. It was written-up in Cafe' Racer magazine last year.
It's for use on the old SOHC Honda round reservoir master cylinders, where the banjo bolt for the hydraulic hose attaches at the end of the master cyl shell, in-line with the piston. If you have a master cyl which has the hose on a 90 degree offset, this won't be of-use to you.
Here's the thread on how I approach the SOHC Honda motorcycle disassembly. I did this on a SOHC CB750 that had been sitting over 40 years. The front caliper was frozen, the master cylinder was frozen, the hydraulic hose was plugged.
When I was done, it all was clean and functional, presently the bike is just being wheeled-around in-storage, so I don't need to rely upon the OEM 47 year-old hydraulic hose to stop me on the street.
I also re-contoured the front brake lever profile to remove the 'slop' where the lever didn't do a thing for over 1/4 of its travel, before contacting the master cylinder piston end.
If you work on these vintage bikes, you likely can use these methods to defeat even the most-stubborn gummed-up/frozen parts.
I didn't use any heat, though that could be another tool in the box.
A way to work on the offset banjo bolt hose attachment master cylinders would be to drill a hole in the end of the master cylinder, in-line with the piston, and weld an aluminum piece onto the end of the master cylinder body, and then tap it for a bolt/plug to close it, which would allow you to drive-out that type of design's piston, and then seal the hole. Given that sometimes the alloy used in the master cylinders may-not lend itself to being easily-welded, you would have to be very careful about this procedure. It may only be suitable for restoring brake function for models which are non-operational/non-running. Replacement of those master cylinders is probably best, if you intend to ride the bike.
http://www.motorcyclistcafe.com/for...l&highlight=honda+master+cylinder+piston+tool
Incidentally, I have never been defeated in loosening a caliper of however-many pistons, using the grease gun. If your compressed-air won't do it, grab your grease gun!
I also made a tool for removing the piston in old Honda SOHC engines' front brake master cylinders, it works like a charm, and it's never been defeated. It was written-up in Cafe' Racer magazine last year.
It's for use on the old SOHC Honda round reservoir master cylinders, where the banjo bolt for the hydraulic hose attaches at the end of the master cyl shell, in-line with the piston. If you have a master cyl which has the hose on a 90 degree offset, this won't be of-use to you.
Here's the thread on how I approach the SOHC Honda motorcycle disassembly. I did this on a SOHC CB750 that had been sitting over 40 years. The front caliper was frozen, the master cylinder was frozen, the hydraulic hose was plugged.
When I was done, it all was clean and functional, presently the bike is just being wheeled-around in-storage, so I don't need to rely upon the OEM 47 year-old hydraulic hose to stop me on the street.
I also re-contoured the front brake lever profile to remove the 'slop' where the lever didn't do a thing for over 1/4 of its travel, before contacting the master cylinder piston end.
If you work on these vintage bikes, you likely can use these methods to defeat even the most-stubborn gummed-up/frozen parts.
I didn't use any heat, though that could be another tool in the box.
A way to work on the offset banjo bolt hose attachment master cylinders would be to drill a hole in the end of the master cylinder, in-line with the piston, and weld an aluminum piece onto the end of the master cylinder body, and then tap it for a bolt/plug to close it, which would allow you to drive-out that type of design's piston, and then seal the hole. Given that sometimes the alloy used in the master cylinders may-not lend itself to being easily-welded, you would have to be very careful about this procedure. It may only be suitable for restoring brake function for models which are non-operational/non-running. Replacement of those master cylinders is probably best, if you intend to ride the bike.
http://www.motorcyclistcafe.com/for...l&highlight=honda+master+cylinder+piston+tool
Incidentally, I have never been defeated in loosening a caliper of however-many pistons, using the grease gun. If your compressed-air won't do it, grab your grease gun!
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Found a different Japanese maker of a similar tool with much longer fingers.
Its called the JTC4586, it certainly doesn't look as stout as the Merry, and im not sure of the COO, but certainly looks like it can reach further with those long fingers.
jimmyin3D
Banned
Found a different Japanese maker of a similar tool with much longer fingers.
Its called the JTC4586, it certainly doesn't look as stout as the Merry, and im not sure of the COO, but certainly looks like it can reach further with those long fingers.
Stay away from the JTC stuff, they are copying a lot of tools from KTC(Kyoto Tool Co.) even borrowing how their logo looks. I’ve seen a lot there stuff come up on amazon when searching for KTC tools.
I even got tricked when buying an oil filter cup once and it was a JTC, I felt so foolish but luckily was able to return it right away.
superautobacs
Well-known member
There are others like Hasco
HKP-115N for EVAP/Fuel system type connections:
and these ones: HKP-114A HKP-114B
I tried to see where I can source them and found that they seem to be only available in Japan, via their auto-body industry.
COO is unknown.
HKP-115N for EVAP/Fuel system type connections:
and these ones: HKP-114A HKP-114B
I tried to see where I can source them and found that they seem to be only available in Japan, via their auto-body industry.
COO is unknown.
There are others like Hasco
HKP-115N for EVAP/Fuel system type connections:
and these ones: HKP-114A HKP-114B
I tried to see where I can source them and found that they seem to be only available in Japan, via their auto-body industry.
COO is unknown.
The HKP-114B is cool. I found a place to buy them online, but they are a hefty $130 USD.
They are actually pretty easy. One nut on each side and a bolt in the front is all you need to pull to move the engine as far as you need to go. A block of wood on the pan and you tip the engine. All is done with normal hand tools.
Frank Kerman
Member
My favourite unique tool is jigsaw as I saw on http://toolsbros.com.
pelletman
Well-known member
I think you need to be a bit more specific!