Wheel alignment plate

[fourjeepin]

Have any of you used these and have an opinion on them? This will be for my ‘79 CJ7. I drive it on the street but very low miles per year. Current alignment was done 4+ years ago and was eyeballed.

Random pic from Amazon; I haven’t purchased anything yet as I am still on the fence if this is a good idea or not. But I am leaning towards it due to the low miles and generally low speeds my Jeep sees. Not to mention the complete lack of original parts plus I would be shocked if the frame was straight due to rollovers and frame breaks

 

[rust in the eye]

That looks spectacularly flimsy.
Given the information you've shared about the vehicle and the use it gets I'd say if eyeball has been good enough for the past 4 years then carry on.

 

[Steve W.]

For the apparent low-demand usage, I would suggest splurging on a professional job, then it’s good for at least a decade or so.

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[Fedwrench]

I haven't used the plate but, my main concern would be you're using a bracket instead of the suspension being at ride height and at rest. How many angles are you measuring with the bracket? just Toe? what about camber, caster sweep, etc. A real alignment might reveal that you have frame issues but, at least then you would know. How much is the bracket compared to an actual wheel alignment?

 

[WildBill]

I use this app and phone holding jig setup, works great for doing home alignments. Came up with almost the exact numbers as Les Schwab did. Also lets you check things like body vs axle angles. https://gyraline.com

 

[DAWrench]

If you are just setting toe in I would just scribe a line by spinning tire and use a tape measure. That how I do my Jeep and it has always worked for me.

 

[ATC]

Just use a piece of angle I assume you have or can find for free...it works very well for a seldom driven vehicle

 

[Milton Shaw]

Ride height is what changes the alignment in the first place. Get the car/truck back to the right height an caster/camber will normally be a lot closer to what it should be. Doing an alignment on jacks has no chance of being accurate. You might as well just chalk the tires and drive it down the road and look for the pattern that were worn off. Outside wear toe in, inside wear toe out. If there is feathering on the tire then toe in is probably the problem. 1/8 inch wrong drags a tire 30 feet every mile you drive. Get it done right and everything broken fixed or welded if broken. Your life is worth fixing it right is the only way to think of car repair.

 

[fourjeepin]

That looks spectacularly flimsy.

Agreed; it was a bad example to show. This is more like what I am thinking

I haven't used the plate but, my main concern would be you're using a bracket instead of the suspension being at ride height and at rest. How many angles are you measuring with the bracket? just Toe? what about camber, caster sweep, etc. A real alignment might reveal that you have frame issues but, at least then you would know. How much is the bracket compared to an actual wheel alignment?

I am only planning to use this for checking toe. My caster is fine. Camber needs to be checked as it could also be causing the tire wear I am experiencing. I bought a good digital angle finder recently for this.
Will checking this will on stands make a difference? Ride height def changes with a more advanced suspension, which a Jeep CJ is NOT. Mine has leaf springs front and rear and it doesn't even have sway bars.

Just use a piece of angle I assume you have or can find for free...it works very well for a seldom driven vehicle

I considered this as I like to build stuff, but for the price these go for and my limited time for fabrication, I decided to buy vs. build.

 

[Wrench97]

It still needs to be at ride height with front and rear on the ground or alignment table.

 

[rust in the eye]

It still needs to be at ride height with front and rear on the ground or alignment table.

Jacks on suspension at 4 corners bearing ALL the weight will do.