Wheel Balancer Options

[tireguy85]

I have a shop that I would consider to be a high volume for tires. We can easily do 20+ cars a day (80 tires).
I'm looking for a high end balancer and was wondering if you had any suggestions. I'm familiar with Hunter, I like the Road Force but I'd like to try a different brand. I have Corghi tire machines and they are great- the service also seems way better with Corghi vs Hunter. But I'm wondering if their balancers are as good as the changers? The Eyelight seems to be the Roadforce comparable just curious if anyone has had experience with this balancer and what the quality is like.
Thanks in advance

 

[Jstnbar]

Hey guys. I am having trouble with my coats 1000 balancer. If I balance a tire and then loosen the cone and rotate the tire on the shaft and retighten the cone it will come up that it needs more weight. It's about 1/2 an ounce off on the small tire that they use for calibration. But when ya get up to big hole rims with a 17 or 18 inch tire it calls for crazy numbers like 2.5 or so after I have it zero. Or it comes up with different numbers every time ya move it. Please help have had the service tech out twice and he calibrates it and leaves. Don't think he believes me

 

[rlitman]

Jstnbar, I'm not sure how your post was relevant to this thread, and you probably should have started a new thread, but being this is your first, post, and nobody else has answered the OP, it's not like I'll be taking this more off track by answering you.

Your problem is not that of calibration. Calibration is what allows you to spin the wheel, apply the weights suggested, and after a second spin, it shows zeros. If you spin the wheel yet again (without loosening the cone yet), and it shows zeros (or damn near zero) again, then your machine is fine.

When you rotate the wheel on the cone, re-clamp it, and it gives you a vastly different weight, there are two possible causes.

1) The wheel is lug centric, and not hub centric. Such a wheel must be balanced on a lug centric adapter, and not with a cone.

or

2) The wheel was not properly centered on the machine either one or both of those spins. This issue is exacerbated by larger rolling circles, but is not unique to larger tires. I'd suggest you look at all of the following before balancing a rim.

The balancer hub and cone should both be clean, and devoid of dings and nicks.

The rim's center hole, and the inner face of the rim should also be clean and devoid of damage (this is a place where rust from the rotor can be stuck to the rim and cause the rim to not sit flat)

Finally, the cone nut should be balanced. This is not super sensitive, but I've seen balancers used where one handle of the nut was broken off and not replaced. You're doomed to odd issues if you do **** like that.