Wheel bearing puller, how much impact?

[boom_bap]

Will a m18 mid gen 2 handle a wheel bearing puller/hub puller/bearing race splitter or do I need to pick up a big dog impact? Would rather pick it up before I start the removal process than have a half apart car in the driveway!

thanks!

 

[Blueshound_GJ]

You never know!

 

[matt_i]

Hard to truly say without pictures but a 1/2" mid torque is a powerful thing and a WAG is that it will destroy the puller before it runs out of torque. One thing you can do to improve the puller action is to lubricate the puller screw with oil prior to starting. Turn that torque into axial load rather than fighting off friction in the threadform's helical ramp.

If it comes down to it you can always go back to hand tools - impact sockets and longer ratchet/breaker-bar lever arms. Of course you also have to support the offset force reaction so it doesn't just twist the puller out whereas with the impact you just pull the trigger. In the rare cases impacts of any type failed me I always persevered with the above technique.

 

[boom_bap]

I plan in lubricating the threads with anti-sieze or moly-grease on the forcing screw of the pullers. Thank you for the reminder!

 

[dchawk81]

Pretty much depends how tight it is which happens first...gun stalls, threads strip, or bearing releases.

I recommend an air hammer with some snot if it's a corrosion situation.

 

[dnschmidt]

Things shouldn't be too rusty up in Idaho so my guess is that the Mid-Torque should work. If not Besides the Mid-Torque I've also got an ASTRO Thor that simply doesn't take no for an answer.

 

[Benito]

An M18 mid will do that job about 75% of the time around here (not even a rust belt state)

 

[2ndGearRubber]

If there's zero rust, it will probably work. My astro nano can do wheel bearings with subpar air. It can struggle, but will always keep the screw turning. That said, an m18 midtorque is a toy, so if there's anything but perfect conditions and a fresh battery it ain't gonna happen. My nano utterly stomps all over an m18 midtorque even with subpar air.

 

[boom_bap]

I don't have air, unfortunately. This particular car their isn't too much rust. I may just pick something up and use my gen 2 and if it works out decide if I want to return the pick up. sounds like overall I "should" be ok, but hard to say.

 

[Blueshound_GJ]

If it doesn't work, you could always pull the knuckle and take it to a local shop with a hydraulic press.

 

[boom_bap]

Then I'd need an alignment too

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Then I'd need an alignment too

Depends on the car. More often than not you will not. Your typical McPherson strut car won't need one unless you have adjustable cam bolts on the strut.

 

[visionguru]

Will a m18 mid gen 2 handle a wheel bearing puller/hub puller/bearing race splitter or do I need to pick up a big dog impact? ...

Mid torque? No good.

When I was doing ball joints, lower control arm bushings, I tried to use my 3/8" Ingersol Rand, which is rated as 650 ft-lb nut busting torque, to power a ball joint press. no luck. I used Ingersol Rand W7152 (rated at 1500 ft-lb), and the ball joints/bushings came out like a piece of cake.

I would say: YES, you need high torque to drive a puller or a press.

 

[Blueshound_GJ]

Then I'd need an alignment too

What is the vehicle and age?

 

[boom_bap]

2014 corolla minimal corrosion generally speaking id say. Rotors were a little crusted to the hubs when I serviced the brakes last weekend relubing pins, and cleaning the hubs etc. was trying to see if it was brakes and not a bearing

 

[Blueshound_GJ]

2014 corolla minimal corrosion generally speaking id say. Rotors were a little crusted to the hubs when I serviced the brakes last weekend relubing pins, and cleaning the hubs etc. was trying to see if it was brakes and not a bearing

I'd give it a go with your existing setup. Scrape away any rust around the rim with a pick, and spray some oil around it. Sometimes you can start the puller, get some tension, then whack it from behind to break it loose if needed. Good luck

 

[Schurkey]

I plan in lubricating the threads with anti-sieze or moly-grease on the forcing screw of the pullers.

DO NOT use anti-seize as a lubricant on parts that are intended to have frequent or sustained relative motion.

Anti-seize is for fastener threads or potentially other machinery pieces that stay put--stationary--for long periods of time (months, years, decades) especially when exposed to high heat, and then get turned. Stuff that sees movement gets eroded by the metal particles in anti-seize (aluminum powder, copper powder, nickle powder--all abrasive!)

You're looking for high- or extreme-pressure grease for those puller threads. I use Bel-Ray moly-based paste (cam lobe lube) but any high-pressure grease could be acceptable. Even plain ol' oil would be better than "dry".

 

[boom_bap]

How about this stuff?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BSMMJ2A/?tag=atomicindus08-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L7W603K/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[garfunkle24]

Ridiculous to say on this site but I wouldn't overthink the lube. If you use anything you're ahead of most people I see using a press/puller. If you're using anything high pressure or with moly you'll be more than fine.

Between the two I'd go Liqui Moly.

 

[Steve_P]

This has the highest moly content that I found when I researched this years ago for splined driveshafts

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HWBSJW/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[nadogail]

Sometimes you need to use a BFH and heat to make things move. Sometimes Kroil or another penetrating oil makes a big difference.

 

[nadogail]

Back when I was still in High School I worked in an Automotive Machine Shop and I pulled a lot of bearings and gears from shafts. Frequently I used a big OTC puller and a 3/4' drive ratchet,it the gear would not budge i was told th rap on the puller with a BFH and then grab a cup of coffee; frequently there would be a loud pop and the gear would break loose.

A customer once said to the shop owner "I would Fire any man who beat on a puller. The shop owner replied, "I will fire any man who wont".

 

[dnschmidt]

I think the mid-torque will work. 1) Idaho is a very dry climate most of the year so I think rust shouldn't be that bad.
2) You're talking about a small car and not a Superduty F350. For lube any assembly lube will work fine as they all have high pressure additives. The CRC stuff with moly assembly lube is cheap and readily available and Liqui-Moly is good stuff. I'd give it a go. If it doesn't work the worse thing you'll have to do is go to Home Depot and buy the Big Boy. Having all three Milwaukee M18 impacts: the Small, the Mid-Torque and the High-Torque I can tell you that I very seldom use the High Torque as it's just too damn heavy. Then again I live in Phoenix so rust isn't part of my life. I also have a huge compressor and an Aircat 1250K if **** really pisses me off which could be another reason that I don't use the High-Torque.

 

[dnschmidt]

Back when I was still in High School I worked in an Automotive Machine Shop and I pulled a lot of bearings and gears from shafts. Frequently I used a big OTC puller and a 3/4' drive ratchet,it the gear would not budge i was told th rap on the puller with a BFH and then grab a cup of coffee; frequently there would be a loud pop and the gear would break loose.

A customer once said to the shop owner "I would Fire any man who beat on a puller. The shop owner replied, "I will fire any man who wont".

The combination of extreme tension and impact (I like Big Nasty for that duty) will normally always work.

 

[boom_bap]

I got it done with a combo of the astro hub/drum puller, astro on car bearing press, 1/2 breaker, 1/2 ratchet, and the mid torque.

Went with the liqumoly grease too.

Overall I did it by hand, but used the mid torque to press out the old one after I had cracked it loose with the ratchet. I was actually worried I was damaging my press with the impact at first. I found its better to use the cup to recieve it only after you've cracked it loose. I know how'd I'd do it better next time. I had read to press the new bearing in by hand, idk if it really matters though. I was using a breaker bar, but it was a pita to realign constantly so moved to the 15inch 1/2 ratchet and jack handle and it went great.

I can tell you I was pretty beat by the end of it. My first one though so it always take the longest.